Replaced the rotors and brake pads on our 300 and about 3 days later the ABS,ESP-BAS and the traction control light lights came on. How do figure out which corner is giving me problems. How can I repair it and turn off the lights? TIA

Since my last post I pulled the front 2 wheels off and removed the ABS sensors. Both seemed pretty clean, I took a air hose and blew out the hole and took a scotchbrite pad and made sure the sensor was clean. Blew both off again and reinstalled.
Now I have to pull the rears here in few minutes and do the same and will report back. Probably have to drive it to get the lights to go off I would think if that is the problem? Or?

i just did this on my sunfire. take the sensors off and clean off the face with a wire brush or light sandpaper. they are the same sensors that control the traction control.

to find a bad one you unplug the sensor at the wheel, hook up your meter set on low AC and spin the tire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb6nXV-iamI

ya beat me and yes, you have to drive it for the light to go off.

Thanks for your input.

I just pulled the rear wheels and ABS sensors. Blew both holes out and maybe one sensor was kinda dirty.
Now the test drive and I will be back.

Oh yea no codes when hooked up my OBD!! reader.

That did not work, drove it about 3 miles and lights are still on.

Where is the fuse for ABS, that's what I just thought about driving around.

Found 2 fuse boxes, one in front under the hood and one in the rear trunk next the battery. None were blown, found 2 5 amp fuses up front that did not have voltage to either side. I had the car idling when I was checking fuses.

So now I disconnected the battery and will leave it disconnected for while, took them both off. Grounded them together too while they are sitting.

What did I screw up by disconnecting the battery? Is there stuff that will need to be reset, anyone know?

i was working on my Sunfire but my fuse was with the normal fuses, headlights, turn signals, horn. it was marked as ABS and when i pulled it my brakes, traction control and ABS lights all went on. before i only had ABS on and the fuse was good. i would definitely track it down and check it.

sounds like you're gonna have to meter each sensor.

and that's about as much help as i can give. anything more is over my head equipment wise.....

Yes your right, gonna do that here in just a little while if the light is still on when I reconnect the battery. But need to do it either way. Thanks

Fired up the car and still ABS lights on.

Just looked at the rear ones(sensor) and there is no place to unplug them to check em. It is one piece going all the way into the rear trunk pan next to the battery. I can see 4 wires coming into the trunk floor and they are are like twisted and go into a large harness of wires. That must be a plug right, in the trunk floor? Can I unplug it there to probe them?

How do ABS sensors come for a 300? Can you buy just one side or is there a deal where both come together because that is what it looks like?

No way to probe them that I can see. Did not look at the fronts yet but I bet I run into the same thing up front.

What now?? I think I see ABS stuff up front right next to the front fuse box. Think the problem is up there? I guess I will look closer up there, not much too see though?

Dealer time? I hate to do that.

It`s a fairly long wire on the sensor from what I remember but it does unplug. Sometimes the tone ring is rusted and can cause issues.

I had a few over the years that the ABS light came on and it did not set a code. I found a few that had intermitant wheel sensor problems but I could actually hear the ABS unit cycle some of the solenoids in it at times when it acted up. I drove them with the windows up and radio off and sometimes when I would just touch the brake pedal real easy and no wheels were locking but I would here the ABS unit cycle some of its solenoids. I then would drive the car and moniter each wheel sensor individually until I found the one acting up and causing the ABS unit to cyle its solenoids. I had a lab scope that worked with the Mopar DRBII that worked great for this and the newer years I could actually record the sensors with the Co-Pilot to find which wheel sensor circuit the problem was on. When I recorded it I made a custom template and only redording the wheel sensors as the less on the recording the faster it looked at each circuit. Good luck with yours , Ron

Abs light on......look at the speed sensor.

Thanks 383man.

Where is the speed sensor on a 2007 300? TIA

Bump

I am still looking for ideas on this problem before I call the dealer....help!

Check the tone rings real good.Ive had a few cracked that are hard to see.Typically you need to clear the codes on ABS with scanner.The abs also acts as traction control IIRC.Been a while since ive worked on one.Use Google to look up speed sensor harness etc.You can find lots of info most times.Rocky

Is your car a plain 300, with a 2.7 litre? Here is a test for front sensor'

1. Check for battery voltage to the wheel speed sensor on the Dark Green/Light Green wire.

2. Check the output of the sensor while backprobing this same 12 volt circuit. The voltage will only change 0.2 of a volt, while slowly turning the wheel.

3. A magnet can be used on the end of the speed sensor to pass it back and forth to see if the speed sensor picks up the signal.

Thanks for your post, the car is a touring model with the 3.5 motor.

Where do I find the dark and light green wires? and how do I probe them?

Using a magnet how can I tell if it is picking up the magnet.
Sorry if this sounds stupid. I did some research last night online but did not find anything pertaining to this model car.

The reluctor wheel is in a sealed area and I can't see it to tell if it is dirty or damaged. This is a very clean car that has not seen snow, salt since my FIL bought it at 26K miles. It now has 56K miles on it.

The OBD2 reader cant read the abs codes as far as I know. It does take a different code reader. Maybe time to buy some new toys.

Also did a quick read online and what your experiencing seems pretty common with the 300,s. Heck, just disconnecting the batt, is causing some of the same issues for some.

Since you did just change the brakes and rotors, you most likely caused the codes by loose dirt being tossed around at a sensor, and now that you Cleaned them the codes or light just remain on, until shut off.

The ABS system may be fine, and just needs reset. Also, some 300,s have their own diagnostic systems that can be read by turning the key to on, then acc, to on, then acc, then to on . Then the codes show up on the dash, forget what that system is called. EVIC Edit.


Best cause of action is to buy a code reader that can read your ABS codes probably. Otherwise its a wild goose chase.


I need a ABS reader myself. I could of used one myself a couple of times when I was trying to bleed a ABS system on a chevy blazer. Turns out it helps to cycle the ABS with the code reader while bleeding the brakes, otherwise it takes Much longer.

Also, hows the front wheel bearings, they can set off the ABS also, when worn, long shot though, I'm sure that's not the problem.


EDIT; The 300 self diognostic is called EVIC


@nd EDIT, Not sure the EVIC will get that detailed either.