Who's got them? What's your combo? What does it run? What have you upgraded? What have you broken?
Thanks!

What is your definition of fast?

We'll say 11.80 and faster?? Something that will keep up with a Scatpack on drag radials, for instance? lol

I'll bite.....
440 stroker (493ci)
1050AN Quickfuel 4150 carb
Solid flat tappet cam
Stock NP A833 18 spline
Center force clutch
Dana 60/ 4.56 gears
Total weight with me and 1/2 tank of 93 octane 3926#
Best time is in my sig. Usually runs 11.1's at 123+ thru the mufflers.
Before switching to a Dana, I've broken everything imaginable in an 8 3/4. Twisted housings, U joints, axles, spun purches. Never broke a tranny outright though, but did have collateral damage on one at one time.

That's cool. Thanks! Sometimes I think I should have gone with a 4.10 over a 3.54 in my Dana.

3.54' are nice street gears. If you go to the track on occasion, then something in the 4.10 or steeper range would be in line, but again, it would depend on the rest of the combo. Example: if your engine rpm tops out at 5K, then going to a steep gear would make no sense at all. It always come down to combo......

Agreed. Still deciding on a combo. Sold the engine out of my Bee. Now trying to decide what to replace it with.

72 Dart, 420" 6.1 Hemi, Viper T56, 3.91s, 335 street tires, 3700lbs with me in it,pump 91, 2300ft above the sea, been to track once and best pass out of 4 was 12.09@121.75 with a lousy 2.0 60ft. Track sucked,runs better on the street.

That's cool! I haven't ruled out a Gen III. But I already have a 440 block. A cost comparison is in order, I suppose.

Check out Tim Riggleman's small block Daytona. In the 7's. Runs with the Pro Stick group.

Nice.

How did you get it so heavy? Sounds like a killer street car.

Is this a blue Daytona?

I use to drag race several different stick cars, you can change the first gear ratio to make the car leave harder without changing the rear gear
IE, we used a early A body NP833 23 spine tranny in my old 340 Duster street and strip stick shift car, the stock first gear ratio in them is 3.09
My current street and strip car I'm building now has the O.D. NP 833 tranny with the same first gear ratio and .64 % over drive, I'm using a 3.55 ratio Dana 60 in that car with a 464 C.I. 440 motor on pump gas, hopefully the O.D. tranny will hold up to a little abuse

I have quite a few Coyote Stock customers. They run at 3000lbs, use a 5.0L 435hp rated factory sealed crate engine, must use a single 10 or 10.5" disc and a diaphragm style pressure plate, spec transmissions/ratios, and must use the clutch to shift. Here's some recent slip data from a run...

1.296
3.868
6.059
110.11
7.968
9.610
134.94

When everybody's making the same power, it can be especially sweet when you get the clutch tune just right. When the clutch hits too hard, it either pulls the engine down too far or knocks the tires loose. Hitting too soft is also counter productive, but there's a sweet spot in between where things work amazingly well. Basically you want to match the clutch's clamp to the engine's power, as this can effectively raise the engine's average rpm, which in turn allows the engine to produce more power in a tighter time frame.

Here's a simplified example to help explain why you want to keep average rpm as high as practically possible-

Lets say a car has the power to gain speed at an average rate of 6000 rpm per second in 1st gear. Let's also have the clutch slip until .5 sec into the run with the tires remaining dead hooked. If the car launches at 6k and the tires are stuck, the clutch will pull engine rpm down to 3k by the .5 sec mark. Then from .5 to 1.0 seconds rpm will climb from 3k back up to 6k, as the engine regains the lost rpm. What all this boils down to is that during the initial 1 second after launch, the engine's average rpm was 4500 rpm, which means the engine made 75 revolutions over that 1st second of the run.
...Now suppose that same car launches at 6k, but now the clutch slips just enough that the engine does not lose any rpm over that same 1 sec period. Now the engine's average rpm was 6000, which means it made 100 revolutions during that initial 1 second period.
...Here's the thing- both left from the same rpm, but the launch that didn't lose any rpm actually packs 33% more revolutions of WOT power production into the same 1 second time period. If the clutch also slips just right after the shifts, you can pick up some power production there as well.

When you understand what you need to do, you can likely make things come together on your own. Here's a few things you can do to an overly aggressive clutch to tweak it closer to that sweet spot...
1- less aggressive friction material
2- smaller diameter disc
3- reduce effective diameter of the disc (trim away some of the friction material's face without reducing overall diameter)
4- reduce clamp pressure either by swapping to a weaker PP/spring, different fulcrum or shimming your existing PP away from the flywheel
5- temporarily hold back some clamp pressure with your foot, basically ride the clutch out for 5-10 feet. Adding an adjustable spring loaded pedal stop can make it easier to consistently find the sweet spot in the pedal travel
6- temporarily hold back some clamp pressure with a timed mechanical device (this is what my device does)

Just putting this out there to show you don't necessarily have to have an "adjustable" clutch to be quick.

Adding a 3.09 1st just makes the gear spread terrible. I will drive it more than race it
If you're putting a lot of power to the overdrive 833, I'm thinking you're going to be disappointed with its longevity.

Agreed. Went this route several years back. Actually bent the input shafts twice. Annnnd, I didn't go any faster. Actually went slower. Went back to an 18 spline with 2.65 low and everything is good again.


Also, I don't know if they will chime in, but there are 2 other cars that are pretty impressive. My Son's '69 Dart, street car(Lar414), with a 414 stroker has gone deep into the 11's.

A good friend of mine, OLDIRON has a '67 Barracuda that has gone low 9.90's.

Both cars are very impressive, Just sayin'..........

looking to do an 833 swap in my dart over the winter! 4 speed has so much more fun factor

lots of ways lol, 1.75x.120 wall full road race cage, 14" front steel SRT rotors that weigh 30lbs each,full Interior, front and rear swaybars etc. The cage alone is 200 lbs. Used to weigh 3240 with an iron head BB.

9.97 @ 135 mph 440 915 heads 1050 team G lugged hemi box