well I'm a small block guy so I'm a bit slow.... My 60 changed quite a bit going from 5800 to 6200. Definitely didn't get up on the tire like the lower stall one did. I didn't experience loss of traction with the stall increase, but loss of performance was definitely noted.... unless you are talking strictly bracket stuff because the 1.34 60 times pretty much every hit made the car very predictable. Our last visit to Famoso I ran my best ET to date Sunday am and that definitely wasn't "good" air. That's with the "other" converter I bought that is tighter. Dave also noted it was definitely up on the tire over our March Meet passes. Think data from that weekend we're around 1300 DA. Can't say this is your issue.... but I sure wish you'd kept the old converter and could throw it in for a weekend.

I'll this again to see if any updates?

Plan to run on the fifth of November(Super Chevy race)
I'll update !

I`ll see where things are in my world and maybe roll out to race w/you guys...........

Cool

Ok had a rough week but changed my front springs,loaded up and went to Famoso.
Left the front shocks as they were. Full loose on extension, rear shocks were set at 3 which is in the middle. Slicks set at 12lbs. Got only one run and was the best yet but again it spun. The hit was with the brake and 3400 chip. That was the tenth run on all the new changes and creeping forward but the car will not rotate. It's comes up and as soon as it starts to pull the front, it starts spinning. I couldn't stick around because I was supposed to be at my wife's birthday so I attempted a second run but the car died on the line and didn't refire.r really feel like scrapping the high dollar front end and going back to stock

Good Job, what is Your finish line rpm?

You have answered your own problem right it this part of the text. Tighten the front rebound.
Doug

Yep I agree, Stated that at the beginning of this thread, fell on deaf ears I guess, but sometimes it is hard to remember every ones post. Try it Tighter next time out and work on the rear separation as stated.

[quote=Dduster]Good Job, what is Your finish line rpm? [/quot

Crossed @ 7800

Full loose is NOT gonna work

Thank You

That was the tenth run on all the new changes and creeping forward but the car will not rotate. It's comes up and as soon as it starts to pull the front, it starts spinning. I couldn't stick around because I was supposed to be at my wife's birthday so I attempted a second run but the car died on the line and didn't refire.r really feel like scrapping the high dollar front end and going back to stock rolleyes

Hang in there champ,don't throw in the flag yet. I've been following this thread for a while now. Cause I'm having similar problems(transferring weight)talk to Bob about a month ago and he recommend sending in the shocks for revalveing. Hope this works for me one thing I will say bout this setup is it makes pulling the pan/headers easy and it goes straight. I had a best of 1.29 this year with this setup and that's with the shocks set full loose it still seems to tight for me. My plans over the winter is to pull the shocks and send them out.

When you get ready to scrap that high dollar front end, I will be glad to take that junk, because that definitely is NOT the problem.

People get SO caught up in the posts on THIS site, about "it's got to have 5" or more of travel, or it won't work" that they can't see the forest for the trees.

Another thing, if it has the fronts off the ground.....it IS transferring and it IS rotating. Not sure what else you think it's supposed to do

Video dizuster posted acouple months ago it may beable to shed some light on your issues
https://youtu.be/sjZDXBXRC9Q

Monte you have a PM

I would agree to tighten up the front. The rear may need a better shock or increased rear valving. Video is always best