Get some softer front springs. I'd try 200#/" or less. Just push down on the front of the car and see how stiff it is and compare with other cars.

I know someone with an E-body with a big Barton hemi who spent big bucks on a new front suspension and got the same results. All you gotta do is lean on the fender and you know it's too stiff. I told him it was too stiff but he's one of those people who automatically rejects what other people say. Big tires, big hemi and mid 9's with a lousy leave. Yes, he's an ET chaser who couldn't win a round to save his life.

Springs are cheep. I'd start at 200# on the front and 110# on the back. And adjust the fronts softer once just to see if it helps lol.
It looks to me like you can go to a longer front spring but it might be camera angle.

I didn't even watch the video (sorry at work), but I am sure the front shocks are too loose. I have the same AFCO DA's, I'm 300lbs nose heavy on a 116" wheelbase, and mine are STILL almost full tight.

Got some 200 lb springs one the way, I started full tight when i first ran the car and it spun hard, I made two click increments and got a little better each run but still would chatter the tires and its full loose now which i did get the best ever 60foot but i know there is a lot more there to get.

I appreciate everyone's input! My goal is to get a consistent low 9.50s and I'm close.

You may need to go as low as 85# on the springs, if your Dart is light in the back. I did. A ladderbar car like mine needs a ton of shock control on extension. You are probably close, if you have a three speed tranny or stick. No expert on the subject here, but I would think a soft spring rate allows the shocks to do their job best, which is steady application of rear axle speed.

I'm definitely no expert which is why I'm always askin for help here, What I have a hard time wrapping my mind around is it use to pick the front up and stick the tires with the 6 banger torsion bars and calvert 90/10 shocks. I did nothing to the rear and with setting the ride height in the front and adjusting the shocks as instructed by AFCO, I went from stiff to completely loose in the front and still seems like it needs to rotate a little higher to plant the rears. I have lighter front springs on the way but I cant understand why I may need lighter rear springs but i'll try anything to get it to hook like it use to. Keep the advise coming , I have thick skin so keep em cumin!

It's all about stored energy and getting a balance front and rear.

Your /6 T-bars had plenty of stored energy, the front springs now have less I guess.

Going lighter in the rear is adding stored energy. This helps drive the tire down at launch

Most likely your 6 cylinder bars were a lower spring rate than your current 250 front springs. To get the proper ride height the adjusters were twsited to compress the bar. Energy stored in a spring or torsion bar dimenishes as it is unloaded. For instance a 250/" spring compressed 2" will support 500lbs. When it expands 2" all its energy has been expended. A 125/" torsion bar will support 500lbs when it it tightened the equivent of 4". After unloading the torsion bar 2" just like the spring you still have 250lbs of stored energy (125×2=250). That stored energy helps lift the front end. For the rear the lighter spring will have to be compressed further to maintain the same ride height. Then as the housing separates from the body that energy will aid in loading the tire for a greater amount of housing travel.
Doug

get a pict of your front spring set up Mike... seemed to me at the ride height you were at, the spring seats were moved up quite a ways on the shock (spring compressed).

Scroll up J, I posted pix of the fronts and rears earlier.

That's why I suggested a longer spring

Chattering the tires leads me to believe you may need more air pressure in them

ok! updated my score card.... carry on!

Cab, I started at 14 and foot braking it spun bad, Adjusted the front shocks and took the pressure to 11 and still sun but not as much. Adjusted the shocks again and got a little better but was chattering the tires. I finally adjusted it full loose in the front and full loose in the rear and too the tires to 10 and it got the best 60 foot 1.35 but still chattered. I really don't think I'm far off but need a little something to get it to stick. One of the things I'm thinking of is pulling the stop and see if it will give it that much more front lift to get that little extra?

That makes sense,

I'm in the same boat, i'v installed the the Bob's frontend kit with afco's and 250 lbs springs and can't seem to get it to hook, I use to 60' anywhere from 128-29's to now just 132 with the afco's/250 springs. Talk to bob a few weeks ago and he say to start loose on the shocks and foot break it, i went out last night and mange to get two pass in without much luck. I'll keep an eye on this thread let us know the outcome.

What exactly is or do you mean by "chattering" the tires.

The only video you have shown it seemed to leave fine. So without seeing what it is doing, it is hard to diagnose an issue. I still don't think lack of front end travel has anything to do with the issue. If this car has enough power to go mid 9s, it needs very little front end travel.

And if you intend to use the trans brake, use it while sorting the car as well

What tire?

Tires shake or chatter is the only way I can describe it. It use to only do that when my slicks were going away but these are new, Hoosier 29.5 10.5 tread width is right at 11.2 across. I do intend on using the brake on the next outing. With all the new changes to the car I've only used the brake once and it spun pretty bad so I've been footbraking it to sort the front. I still only have about ten runs on the new combo.

IMO better video will help a lot here..

My question is what are you trying to accomplish? Best footbrake launch or planning on using the transbrake? IMO if you plan to run the car on the brake all this stuff footbraking is kinda useless IMO. If the goal is to make it the best it can be while on the brake then why even bother with how it works footbraking, or are you looking to run a class where you have to footbrake it? Even if you do find a way to make it work decent footbraking all that may be totally useless using the brake.

Generally speaking on the brake it should take little front end movement to get the car to hook, on a footbrake IMO it will end up taking a great deal more travel up front to work..But that is just a guess. IMO from what I saw in the video was a decent working footbrake car. But that means little if you are not looking to footbrake it..Just seems counter productive to worry about how the car leaves footbraking if that is not the intention.

Thanks Al, my plan is to run c gas or 9.60 class. Last outing was purely to get the the front end sorted out and would spin just footbraking it. Towards the end it was getting better but even having the chip at 3000 would blow the tires on the hit.