It sounds like this is the first time your installing a new cam, is that accurate?
If so you need new lifters and cam lube from the cam manufacturer, use the special cam break in lube sparingly on the lifter bottoms and the top of cam lobes only, not on the cam journals or on the sides of the lifters
![up up](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/thumbs_up.gif)
Use the oil you will run in the motor for the lubing sides of the lifters and cam journals
![up up](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/thumbs_up.gif)
Do you understand the cam degreeing process? If not take the time now to learn that process and get the tools needed to degree the cam accurately
![twocents twocents](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/twocents.gif)
(the first time is the hardest one to learn, just like any other new lesson
![shruggy shruggy](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/shruggy.gif)
) I learned that lesson(always degree the cam, do NOT install it dot to dot
![tsk tsk](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/tsk.gif)
) the hard way the second time I installed a new cam in a Mopar, the first cam I installed when I was 17 yrs old went into a early Olsmobile motor with used lifters and it went flat in 1300 miles ruining that motor
![realcrazy realcrazy](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/realcrazy.gif)
The second cam in another motor was ground 8 degrees retarded
![down down](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/down.gif)
It wouldn't run worth a hoot until I learned what was wrong with it, degreeing it and then fixing it(that was a Gen 1 392 Hemi in a flat bottom boat back in 1972) with offset keys on the crankshaft and camshaft
![shruggy shruggy](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/shruggy.gif)
As far as where to install the cam I would install it in so the intake lobe center is between 2 and 6 degrees advanced
![thumbs thumbs](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/thumbs.gif)
That will help build more torque and HP at the lower end of the RPM range the motor will normaly run at
![work work](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/work.gif)
One thing to remember and do is to degree the cam off of the lifters, not the valve retainers on the valves. the main reason is the rocker arm ratio will affect the readings at the retainers, not so on the lifters. I normally start with degreeing the cam from the cam card, use the numbers from the .050 instructions and the later you can do the lobe seperation timing off of either the lifters or the valve retainers or both
![work work](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/work.gif)
The cam has the lobes ground on a lobe seperation angle, usually between 104 and 114 from top dead center depending on the cam and intended application. You normally time the cam off of the intake lobe in relation to top dead center, advancing the cam will move the intake lobe center closer to top dead center and retarding it will move it away from TDC
![up up](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/thumbs_up.gif)
Yours is probally ground on a 106 LSA so I would install it with the intake lobes installed between 104 to 100 degrees from TDC
![up up](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/thumbs_up.gif)
That will make the exhaust lobe be between 108 to 112 from top dead center. I check both lobes after getting the intake lobe timed where I want it to verify that the cam is actually ground on the lobe seperation angle it says on the cam card
![scope scope](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/scope.gif)
I have had them ground wrong on the LSA also, bad stuff happens sometimes
![scope scope](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/scope.gif)
If you don't check it you won't know that
![shruggy shruggy](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/shruggy.gif)
Good luck, let us know what you find and do please
![thumbs thumbs](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/thumbs.gif)