Yes , but if the seals are original it doesn't matter because they should be replaced.

I think I would be worried about popping the spring out of the seal...

I consider this whole thing about the axle splines cutting the seal lip to be an urban myth....oft repeated.

I just use reasonable care to keep the shaft supported and horizontal. Never an issue. Splines (at least healthy ones) aren't THAT sharp!

^^ WINNER !!!

I do it just to be proactive & keep Mr Murphy at bay. Ramrod what I do is pull the axle out till the splines are maybe 2" on the inside of the seal & hold it horizontle without undue pressure from the weight resting on the seal then wrap a several inch wide piece of brown grocery sack around the axle & wrap it fairly tight then I shove the axle/paper in a bit just the right amt so there is some brown paper on the axle on either side of the seal then I relax the paper slightly & holding it (the paper) in that position I slide the axle out all the way so the splines never contact the seal. Only takes a minute but if Kunkel says it ain't needed then that is good enough for me!

Thanks all, for info and discussion -



Thanks! So that's too much play for a whole lotta bearing grease to compensate for....? LOL.
I'm ready to get into it, but this morning starts a week off taking my wife & kids to see family, so I'll order the parts to have them here when I get back. Talk to my local machine shop about pressing the old bearings off and new bearings on.

I'll report back anything interesting..



Yes and no. Yes, I dropped the whole axle assembly out and repainted it, but No, I never had the individual axle shafts out during resto.

Cheers,
- Art

Art,
I lost a wheel bearing a year or so ago in the 70 Satellite...After talking to the machine shop and pricing new bearings I just ordered new axles from Dr. Diff to eliminate down time.
Cost was a little more but the job was completed in about an hour rather than spread out over a day or two...

Thanks for chiming in on my rear wheel bearings. I'm intending to go with the OEM tapered bearings.

skicker - I looked at that option, thanks, that is a pretty good idea. I've got the time and I like my machine shop, so I'm good with the bearings.

I read through the FSM and wanted to ask in plain words; how hard is it for a rookie like me to do the final adjusting of a tapered bearing setup? I appears pretty simple, step by step, install the one side first, then turn the adjuster down to the right tolerance on the other side, set the "notch" on the adjuster and all done.

I don't have a feeler gauge that will allow me to measure the final end play (0.012), but I've never used one on my front bearings either which I've adjusted a couple times without any drama or failure. My hunch is I can adjust the rears the same way - by feel.

How badly can I [censored] it up by doing this all by feel?

I'm searching Youtube for tutorials, no matches so far. Found a few that cover the bearing replacement, but not the final adjust.

Thanks,
- Art

"RRRRRRRRRRR"

Talk like a Pirate day?


*Sorry, just had to

Close, but no .... it's not an "AARrrrrrrrr" sound... It's just "RRrrrrrrr" !


BTW my boys and I just happen to be watching all the POTC Jack Sparrow movies this week... fun stuff.

you shouldn't have any problem , but you don't use a feeler guage , you use a dial indicator and a dead blow hammer.

Got a harbor freight near by , get a dial indicator , a dead blow and brass punches to spin the adjuster and you'll be all set .

If you were closer I'd just take a ride over and walk you threw it

Thanks John,
Right, I've got a Harbor Freight here in town - dial indicator, and a slide hammer seal puller too - I already have various steel rods and blunt punches. I'll have a go at it and come back here if I run into issues.
- Art

You'll "B" fine.
I've done it a few times before and it isn't that big a deal.
I did it by feel just like the fronts and never any problems.
Just make sure the new bearings have plenty of grease.
Also, I never used anything on the splines but caution.
Good time for new seals there as well.

Update - and question.

I used the brake drums installed backwards as a homemade slide hammer and got the driver's side axle out, easy. The bearing seems absolutely fine, but it was installed without an inner oil seal, just tons of red silicone gooped in there and around the flange plate.

The same homemade slide hammer trick has NOT worked AT ALL to pull the axle out on the passenger side. The FSM says to use a special tool, a puller... and I'll see if I can rent a proper slide hammer puller from a local parts store.

BUT on page 3-3 of the '65 FSM the instruction also states "The right hand shaft with the adjuster in the retainer plate will also have a lock on one of the studs that will be removed at this time (Fig. 3 & 4)."

Question ;
- What "lock" is the FSM talking about removing? It can't be the adjusting ring, can it?
- Without removing this lock - is that why I can't pull the @U^&%$#R axle out?

Figure 3 and 4 are simple, unlabeled, exploded views of the axles, oil seals, flanges, gaskets and such parts. No mention of where this "lock" is.

Thanks!
- Art

PS - as an experiment I tried loosening the adjuster ring but I haven't been able to budge it with a blunt punch and hammer.

The adjuster ring is part of the axle assembly.
It should all come out with the axle.

The lock is on the passenger side.

It is a hook shaped piece of stamped steel that gets locked under the second bolt down from the top towards the front in this picture.
It fits in the notch on the threaded ring and holds it all in place...



Notice the nut holding the lock is the only one with a washer on it.
It should go back together this way.

Hope this helps.
also Art.

You can see here how the lock ring is Part of the assembly, as well as how I grease the bearings...

The hole in the axle flange allows access to the individual lock plate bolts.





That's not right.

Might be because of excess heat from dry bearings.
Try soaking it with a lite oil and see what comes of it.
It should move rather easily once the lock is removed.
It should have budged a little with the lock in place.

also Art

that little clip is about the size of your thumb & is under one of the (5) holddown nuts (it slips on a stud, before the nut). sometimes the flat flange can be extremely tight on the studs & you might (gently/appropriately) pry the flat flange out a bit (evenly) to get it slightly free and first unscrew the threaded adjuster in the correct direction so there IS some play there then with the drum, slide hammer it out. the interference fit of the flat flange (the (5) holes, their fit on the studs might be what is holding things immobile rather than the bearing etc that is inside the housing

OK - thanks a bunch all of you - super helpful pictures,

That "lock" is completely missing from my passenger side flange. All the flange bolts are off and they had nothing but lockwashers under them. No lock with the tip that grabs the adjuster ring.

As for the adjuster ring - I've hammered on it pretty hard but not damaged or deformed it. I'll use PB Blaster in the morning, some blow torch heat and try again, thanks.

Someone must have been into these bearings before me, there are no gaskets behind the "flange plate", just silicon sealant gooped in there...

.... and I am starting to think the adjuster ring was never tightened properly and/or it backed off because the lock is missing.. which can give me loose bearings and all the symptoms I've experienced.

I'll get my hands on one of those locks from a salvage yard, try getting it apart and update again.
Thanks guys,
- Art

Seeing that half the parts required for a complete assy are missing Art, just go with the Green Bearings, no seals to play with as they are part of the bearing, no need for for axle adjustment end play

I've used Green Bearings for decades on all my toys with ZERO failures or issues, many thousands of hard miles on the road, track, road course, cross country events, etc, etc, etc,...proper installation is the key to longevity

There's 253 million vehicles currently on the road in the US, I can guarantee you more than half are rolling on ball bearing axle bearings

Go "Green", you'll be glad you did

Mike