Well, since I sold my Volksrod and my Coronet is in the tedious process of block -sanding plus waiting a big cube bullet.

I bought myself a cheap throw together type project. Every B-body that I looked at was way too much of a buy in, and I had no spare parts for an A-body so I got a pair of 76 Volares'. One is ok the other is toast but has some good useable and needed parts.

Pics coming

Pics of how it arrived. The landau quarter windows will be swapped to the standard glass.

I will be making it a Day 2 tribute to the 70's street car. Without the phsycadelic (sp) paint job.

Fitting in a 400 & 727 and I used a set of B-body SS leafsprings and a 8-3/4. I rebuilt spring packs using the F body main leaf and the isolaters went away with the swap.

Here are the mods done to the driver side motor mount as per Schumacher directions, with considerable more mods than they say.

The power steering box is getting swapped for a manual so i had to make the extention. The brake booster is going to be from a 75 Dart which is smaller in diameter to clear the big block valve cover.

The engine compartment is stripped of everything, and k frame will get cleaned up before reinstall. Lots of scraping cleaning then some paint.

I'll be making steel blocks to replace the shabby isolaters, I am going to rebuild the suspension once the car is complete again. I think it will be easier with the k frame mounted and above me on a lift.

The car was considerably rustier than the seller disclosed so I had to patch the frame rails and will be doing the floors soon.

That will make a nice ride.
Used to be a black R/T or RR (decals removed) w/ Centerlines near me. Sounded very healthy and looked very good. Never had the chance to stop by and talk to the guy.



Tim

Wow , that was the good one? I can only imagine what the other one looks like .

Have fun , looks like a great project.

Was able to fab and weld up my steel isolaters blocks, I decided to make them a little shorter than the originals.

They are supposed to be 1-5/16 but I used two 5/8 thick blocks with a 3/4" through hole, I welded them together and added a modified flat washer to make the locating tab.

New grade 8 hardware is shorter since there is no isolaters on the bottom of the k frame

In place, I will paint them and the k member before re install.

I'm not really going to put alot of horsepower or sticky tires or a steep set of gears, but since it needs some floor work I figured I would install frame connectors.

I used .125 wall 2" square tube, I did a lap joint on the front and matched the framerail on the rear

Since this car will never be worth too much, I am cutting a few corners and saving weeks of work and lots of money in some of the repairs I do.

The cowling had many holes, and overall was paper thin in alot of it. Seems the paint never reached the obscured areas so in rusted out pretty good.

There is no way I would cut the upper cowl off to properly replace the lower, so I opened up the cowl a bit and sand blasted the entire area, I used an epoxy laminating resin to coat and layup the entire cowl area, kinda like a full tray and then a coating of flex seal liquid to protect the resin.

I'm sure I'll hear blasphemy from someone for the way I fixed it, but otherwise the car would not be saved.

And so I don't spend a day driving to the steel shop for sheetmetal, I procured a bit from elsewhere

I did the same thing to my 76 Volare in 1988, I used a 440, Headman E body 2" headers and fabbed solid motor mounts. The car was new enough at the time I was able to get new quarters and a grill from mopar, with a little trimming on the front i can get a 30 x 10.5 to fit. If you want to save about 300 lbs make bumper brackets to replace the crash bars and energy absorbers at both ends.

I got my Volare for $150 from the back row of a chevy dealer, 73k on the clock.

Floors are patched, not pretty, but solid. Guys be thankful to have replacement panels for your common bodystyles.
because cutting & bending flat stock to fit sucks

Wow Henry nice job bro, i didnt realize how much work youve been doing on it.
dont get too carried away, i know the fabrication of the build is what you really enjoy but try to remember, its to be a fun driver not a show car ha ha ha.
(since Dan @performance only (RIP) isnt around anymore, someone need to pick on you to keep you in check.)
copper

After a couple weeks of working on other things I was able to dedicate a few days to the engine compartment.

First I did the bodywork to the repaired rusty areas on the firewall, then stripped the paint off the rest of the panels, primed with metal etch, and a bit of rattle can high build primer, sanded it completely then COLOR

Here are the shots in primer. These cars are seriously crap bags when it comes to the sheetmetal stamping and assembly.

We Got COLOR, LOTS OF GREEN. Sassy Grass, to be specific.

Single stage.

Couple more

They do look good in Sassy Grass green......