I remember seeing someone post that they were making these. I tried searching and I am coming up with nothing. Does anyone remember where they were advertised?

Dont think they were really advertised.A member was making them but I cant remember if he stopped.Rocky

I just wrapped the tie down strap around the axle and plate.

What a great idea, just like how a Mopar should be tied down. By it's axle.

Now we need a good idea for the front.

On my front I used a piece of chain inside a thick hose and fished it threw the crossmember. I then hooked my tiedowns in an X pattern fastened to the trailer. I made an extra heavy skid plate attached to my K-frame. It is plenty strong enough.

So it was on moparts? Any chance that anyone knows who he is?

Blues_cuda. I have a set.

Tab welded on the lower control arm perhaps?

Of course, allowing a car to bounce on its suspension on a trailer is putting the same mileage/use/heat into the shocks as if you actually drove it there. That's not always a good thing for a race suspension.

Andy F was showing some that he made at one time ?

I don't care for the plates because they are larger than stock and look bulky and weird to me under the car. But more important is they weigh more and that is more weight your shocks have to control.

I use 4 axle straps on every car I haul, even in front around the K member on old mopars and around the engine mount for our durango and 300.

And lets not even talk about whether they should be crossed or not!

True IMO it's the lesseer of the evils. IMO leaving the suspension move on the vehicle being towed takes some of the stress off the trailer suspension and tires. I have towed our street cars 110,000 miles in the last 8 years with no apparent wear on the cars being towed and have never had a flat tire on the trailer or any damage to the trailer.

Now when I haul our durango with more suspension travel I did tie down both to keep the durango from going up and down on the trailer while on the trailer. I didn't like the look of it in my mirrors going up and down.

Towed almost 4000 miles on this trip out west.

The 72 B bodies had a plate with a hole for a sway bar, wouldn't that be a good plate to use?

They were advertised on the "parts for sale" a year ago. They are sandwiched between the rear shock plate and leaf spring. I bought a pair for my GTS. I have the machined tabs that Mancini sells on the front. Not sure who the member was that built the rear plates.

Here's a couple of pics of the tie downs on my car

Again, Blues_Cuda:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/users/1587/blues-cuda.html

You don't actually think these guys read the posts do you?

I don't know if that is sarcasm towards me or people that posted after my first posting where I said who makes them...
Plus my first post was vague.
I'll message him on facebook so he responds here.

Thanks for the heads up, Devin. I just replied to the original poster's private message.

I don't get on Moparts much anymore. I guess it would not hurt to post another ad though.

Thanks for the help 68killerbee

I have the AR engineering tabs sold through mancini on the front and think these plates in the back will be an excellent compliment to them. The tabs on the front work really well and makes strappping down a cinch

Not sure what kind of car you have? However, another possible option for the rear on an e-body, is the factory shipping brackets as a rear fastening point. Easy to access and factory engineered by the mother ship.

This is what I did for my car. I use these tie downs for the chassis dyno. The front brackets I make will also fit on the rear of the car if you prefer to tie down the body rather than the suspension.

I did buy two sets of yours for my bee but couldn't find a good spot to attach them to on the rear of the car. I didnt't see the shock plate mount pictured above. That looks like a nice piece as well.

Here's mine. Overkill? probably but I don't want my car tied to a flimsy piece of sheet metal.

If you use the AR brackets in the front(attached to a bumper bracket bolt) you are tying down the "body".(no suspension movement) If you use the shock plate anchor in the back, you are tying down the suspension.(suspension free to move) Is there going to be an issue with the front suspension being held tight but the back suspension being free to move? Shouldn't it be one or the other...not different front to back? I'm not a very experienced tower. Not trying to it's an honest question.

I've always used axle straps on the rear end and hooked into the k member in the front and never had any issues.

I think you can use one of the bolts that holds the bumper bracket to the frame. At least that worked on my '65 Coronet but it might not work on a new car.

I drove a flatbed tow truck for 5 years and fastened down cars all the ways mentioned above and some other ways too.

Sometimes we are towing wrecks, exotics, old cars and new cars/trucks. There are quick methods, easy, proper and improper methods to secure a car. Sometimes there are no accessible anchor points and you have to be creative.

As noted by Challenger, it's a comforting feeling to have your cargo secure and not moving around but after towing thousands of cars I've developed an opinion for how I'd tow MY OWN CAR.

There were thousands of tows where I secured to the frame. If the road is smooth it was okay but if there was any bumps or dips in the road. Big enough to compress the towed car's suspension, not a problem. The suspension compresses and the strap become slack. Now the problem, the suspension extends up to the point where the straps limits the travel and it hits them like a solid stopper.

I know most car trailers are not equipped for the BEST method but if you look at the latest car transport trucks you will see. Securing the tires is the best method.

I know this is an old thread, but I'm looking for something available that would bolt to the rear leaf spring U-bolts under shock plate .... for hooking up to trailer straps for open trailer towing. Anything from a vendor available?.. for my E-body?

I'll be changing my leaf springs very soon and this could be the time to do it. Wrapping short straps around my axle didn't seem to be very good (diagonal from behind the rear brakes using ~24" straps).

Also, the factory rear frame anchors have their holes a bit too small, but snap hooks could be used there.

I wonder which is better... hooking up the axle.. or the rear chassis?

I don't tow much.. but intend to start up again for 2021... towing maybe 6x per year midwest.

T/Anks ahead.

Yeah this thread is 6 years old so things have changed. There is at least one vendor who makes a sandwich type of hold down, I know I've seen those parts advertised on here recently. I redesigned my rear shock plates so now everything I build has built in tie down loops like this.

Rear laser cut trailer tie down brackets for most A, B, or E body vehicles (doesn’t fit the 7 ¼ rear axle). These piggyback onto the bottom of the stock shock plate mounting nuts and then 4 more nuts hold these tie down brackets on. You must have enough extra thread hanging down on the bottom of your U-bolts to fit the ¼” thick tie down bracket and another nut. No disassembly necessary, just slide the brackets over the extra thread on your U-bolts, install the included nuts, tighten them down and you’re done. Takes about 10 minutes to install. These eliminate all the hassles that come with using axle straps. Fits A, B, and E body cars with the standard shock plates like shown in the pictures. $60.00 per pair plus shipping. I also have these available for cars with CalTracs, same price.
Email mrrandyj@aol.com
mrrandyj member here listed in b body 1970 back

Thanks for the replies... Andy and 1969GTX

Andy, that solution has KISS look to it.

I asked the member here with the "sandwich" solution if he wouldn't mind making up a few sets for my projects out of Ti, albeit at a greater acceptable material cost.

Never agreed on a deal.

Mancini sells these...

https://www.manciniracing.com/marashplset1.html

I took off the shock plates and welded this to them.

Andy, how much for a set of those?

There’s plenty of thread on the U-bolts, why not add a simple L-bracket on the bottom?
Seems like you could get something for a couple of bucks at any HW store.

I think the advantage of the other vendor "sandwich" design is the spreading the bending/shearing loads fairly equally to all four bolts, which likely are quite adequate, but never intended to be loaded as such. A single bolt might be problematic in an accident impact restraint situation. Case of doable, but it is adviseable?

Andy's design effectively offers the same advantages with less parts.

Mancini Racing charges $100 for the race style, the street style is around $85. https://www.manciniracing.com/marashplset.html

I also add a jack stand support when I build them. I weld the rear flange to the side flange in order to box in the part. The jack stand support is welded on the bottom and to the rear flange to add additional support. I bend a tab up in the jack stand support to keep the jackstand from sliding out of place.

I'm not a fan of the tie down metal hooking onto the metal on the car hold downs due to wear and potentially causing stress riser in the hold own metal
I've hauled and towed a bunch of different cars starting back in the old days with a tow bar on the race car, once only, and open trailers and open ramp trucks and then enclosed truck and trailers. I used a 1/2 ton come along(small ratchet hoist) with chains to hold the other end of the car and then ratchet tie downs with straps. I prefer the straps and ratchet tie downs, one on each corner, to wrapping a chain onto some part of the car to hold it
I wreck one NHRA Hemi stock car using a 1/2 ton come long in front to hold the car and a small chain wrapped around the rear end housing tied down to the rear of the borrow trailer
I had my wife and the driver of that car in the front seat of my 1/2 ton 1960 Ford pickup, I hit a large dog that ran out in front of my truck, it got stuck under the front fender and passenger side front tire making my pick up jack knife and slide off the other side of the road into the ditch, the rear tie down chain broke on the race car allowing it to run over the front tire stops and run up onto the back of my pick up bed and then rolling over onto it tops totaling that car The owners of the car had no insurance on it and my insurance didn't cover me hauling "race cars", but it does now
I have special coverage on all of my toy cars, AKA "Race Cars" which has paid for damages to them at the track when another car ran into it while park behind my trailer Get you some of that
IHTH