The AN10 bung have a 90° elbow with a pickup for the last dry sump stage, as I have a 6-stage pump.
Lifter area is sealed of in the center.

Good, it will get plenty of oil there.

I think this is the combo that I'm going to use (although I could change my mind again). This is a solid valley plate made from 0.250 aluminum. The plate is beveled on the edges and then I made up a pair of aluminum "bat wings" that will RTV to the bevel on the plate. I'm going to glue paper gaskets to each side of the bat wing.

Andy, when you get this system ready for sale let me know, I am interested in useing this set-up.

I can sell you the same parts that are in the picture. I have extra valley plates and bat wings on hand. Just shoot me a PM. If you already have an Indy valley plate then I can sell you just the bat wings. I have solid valley plates for B blocks only. The RB plates that I have on hand have the inspection cover machined in them so they are more expensive.

Like mentioned before, there are so many variables as far as head milling, block milling, port size and location, wouldn't it be best to just tig an aluminum plate to the bottom of the intake and seal the ends with RTV like a small block?

Welding on a plate might work for a guy who only has one intake manifold but it isn't a good solution for me. I have a bunch of intake manifolds to test so I need a "bolt on" solution.

With the bat wing design I now have very good port alignment. Can't see all of it but what you can see by looking down the runner lines up exactly with the port in the head.

Might be good for a little extra power. I was at 715 last time on the dyno so we'll see what she does this time.

I sent the valley plate back to the shop for a little weight reduction.

NICE, I need to put in more effort with my intake alignment.

how much does that weigh now ? good looking for sure !

That weight reduction makes it look like a whole different component. Very nice, Andy.

Now that I have the other head back from machine shop jail I can go back to mocking up the options. The one piece valley cover I built ended up fitting perfectly but I still think I'll go with the 3 piece setup. Here is the one piece. Port match is perfect.

Here is the 3 piece setup with a solid valley cover and then the pair of batwings. I like this solution better since I can move the batwings around to get the alignment that I want and then just lay a bead of RTV down to seal things up. This solution will also work with different deck heights and different head gasket thicknesses.

The bat wing design passed the dyno test with flying colors. We made a bunch of dyno pulls without any issues and we made multiple intake swaps. The intake just lifts off without any issue and does not damage the gaskets. So the gaskets can be re-used multiple times.

Hi Andy! It appears that you glue (gasgacinch?) the gaskets to both sides of the bat wings, and then spread a little grease (white lithium) on the gaskets so they won't stick. Correct??

Yep. I use contact cement to glue the gaskets to the aluminum bat wing and then smear some white grease on the intake face of the gasket.

I decided to move the breather to the valley plate so I had a #12 bung welded to the plate and then used a Peterson breather. I think this will work better than the valve cover mounted breather that I was using.

Andy ,
would this 3 piece plate work with 440 Source heads ?

Tex

Sure but it is really only needed with a fully ported head. If the heads are unported then the standard bathtub gasket should work just fine.