A few questions for the wiring gurus.

I have a 60 amp self exciting alt. No longer driven on the street. Would only run tail and headlight circuit for night racing.

That being said what size wire should be run from the alt to the battery? Approx 15'

What size ground wire from the battery to the front? The positive side is 2AWG.

Last question... I think lol... What size wire from the junction block to the starter? approx 5'

Thanks!

I would run a #10 or larger from the alternator to the battery so you can switch to a larger output(100+ amps) one later with no worrys
On the negative wire from the battery to the front I woud use a #1 or 0 gauge. I would bond the motor with several smaller #4 wires to the frame also
On the main feed from the positive wire feed from the battery to the starter up to feeding the car I would and do use a #4 also
When it comes to electron flow in D.C. circuits a littel bigger wire gauge( 1 or 2 sizes bigger) is way better than 1/2 a wire gauge size size to small
IHTHs

Thanks for the info, going to Dell City tomorrow morning to get all my supplies. 20% off right now up to $800.

PM "Just a dart".... see if he'll send you some picts. He does some pretty nice car wiring.

I'll second Cab's suggestions, that's what I've run with zero issues.
Basically, the longer the wire, the heavier the gauge should be, meaning if in doubt go up.
I think Del City also sells braided split loom covering in a few sizes: slit like that ribbed GM stuff, but much nicer looking; much like the OEM Mopar tail-light harness covering, but easy to install & live with. Not very spendy, either; I'm using it on my builds.

If you are going to run the altenator cable to the battery disconnect(battery side) I would use #6 wire.

Those your old as$ heavy glass head lights in
the trash and get some plastic LED lights..
they draw way less and are lighter and brighter
and you should look up a wire chart on line

I didn't think of you wiring a race car to NHRA specs, I ran a #8 from my 100 amp alternator directly to the positive cable on one battery(passenger side) and bypassed the battery cut off switch, which made that run about three feet shorter on my 1970 tube chassis cuda The battery cables are in parelel with each other (both positive leads are termainted on one + post) and I use one positive feed cable from the passenger side battery to the cut off switch

I got 8 for the alternator. Better than the 12 that was running all the way back there. Which has been fine for the last 16 years, and that has night time street use. So you know it was drawing some power.

Yeah those lights need to go. Both of them gotta weigh close to 10 lbs together. That'll be my next post, how guys made their led headlights.

Can't you just run the alt wire to the battery? As long as it's before the shut off it'll function the same.

Or is that a NHRA rule that it has to be done that way? I've never had anyone say anything.

I agree with everyone. I will add that I use 10 gauge wire from my alt to my battery in the trunk and have had no problems at all. But I use the stock 60 amp alt and the only extra's I have on the car is an electric fuel pump and I added an electric fan in front of the rad. Ron

You have a part# for those lights?

I just re-wried the alternator circuit, but this is a street car.

Went with XS Power copper coated aluminum stranded cable, 4g to a heavy duty relay, then to battery side the disconnect switch.

good price on lightweight cable:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_81466_XS-Power-XPFLEX4BK-20-Iced-Black.html

Last year I went to H4 conversion housings from Amazon for like $35. Lightweight, but according to weight guru FMJ, not lighter than old sealed beams. The optics were horrible, and it is a street car, so I just recent switched to a true LED light, not light, and more than you need for racing:
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/sto...p;storeId=10001

I went with these... much lighter weight and
brighter by far than the old glass.. got them
off e-bag... has 3 lights in each.. led perimeter
the head light and a little blue bulb near the bottom
I have the white led perimeter light as parking and
the little blue hooked up to the turn signals.. makes
the head light change color when flashing(barely changes
color)

kind of forgot about the headlight deal..... considering I'm dragging around all that stock stuff and it isn't even hooked up! Something else for the "to do" list. Kind of liking the lightweight and functional approach...

My batt cable(#01 iirc)runs from the trunk to a bulkhead on the firewall and the the alt. straight to the same bulkhead w/a batt. cable(big)...........14.5-14.7 at idle............

I see you painted your fingernails to match the blue car..........

Voltage drop along that run from alternator to battery is going to be fairly large using anything smaller than a 6Ga wire Justa dart suggested.

I'd run 6 or even a 4ga to minimize voltage drop.

You can run the charge wire back to the battery or battery side of the disconnect switch, same basic location. The BAD of that... that wire is always hot!

Something to look at for wire sizing.

That is a good price for the liteweight battery cable for sure. We used all liteweight stuff when I redid the Stratus wiring