Will roller lifter link bars that connect the two lifters interfere with the block? Do all blocks have to be ground a bit to ensure there's no clearance problems??

I've got a 415ci aluminum headed 1976 360 block which is currently out of my car. I'd like to yank the 280/474 purpleshaft and trade it on a roller..just need more info....

71 the 360 roller motor i bought looks like it had very little clearance grinding for the bars. I am also interested in the SB roller dilemna. the pass side oiling is blocked to the lifters. I would like someone (pro engine builder) to come in and explain all the different ways to put rollers in small blocks in cluding the R3 and the reason for each. seems like alot of unsure explinations.

come on engine builders help us.

Guys, There is a post running about this right now just look for it. later matt s

have seen the post. does not explain in detail how and why there are different roller setups. some block off oil galleys some don't. some need lifter bores bushed some don't. I think it would be good to have each method spelled out and saved.

Where you at Carl nothing in the tech archives about this. someone has to have some info?

all these ways are doing the same thing. A eng. have a problem when you use rollers. the lifter wants to uncover the oiling hole in the lifter bore and that is a problem [no oil presure].
if you have a eng. book from MP you can read all about the right side oil feed block off.
if you bush the lifter bore you do the same thing as blocking rt.side of block.
in the other post you saw the bushing deal was because there was to much clearance in the lifter bore. there are a couple of companies that have roller lifters that you dont have to do any of the things. as you know things dont always work like they say. that is what the bushing thing was about in the other post.
dont know if that helps any or not.

thanks dw that sheds a little light. would be nice to know which lifters does what. why the right side block? would be good to have part #s and what they do in the tech section. does the R3 have the same problem with the new long lifters?

Ok, Let me try.
1)If you want to oil thru the pushrods you must bush the block (any block) the bushing has an oiling orfice.
2)The R-1/R-3 block require a longer roller tappet because of a tall tappet boss. Standard solid or hydralic(sp?) lifter. But for a solid or roller tappet lifter you must block the oil paasage in the block. Oiling thru the head.
3)The 340/360 block use a standard roller,solid or hydralic lifter but for the solid and roller tappet you must block off the oil passage. Oiling thru the head.


later matt s

Alright, I've been watching this post all day, and I was'nt going to relpy to this post because I am NOT a SB engine "expert" but then again I don't see anyone else stepping up to the plate to help answer your questions..... (EDIT I Type WAY too slow LOL) So here is my best shot, if anyone else out there knows more than this or has corrections to make, be my guest and fire away........

I think "Clonestocker" and I confused things in the other post because we were discussing pushrod oiling. 98 % of guys out there running a solid roller in a SB Mopar are not going to oil through the pushrods. The reason "W5Dart66" and Clonestocker want to do it is because of the T&D non Shaft Mount Rocker arms REQUIRE pushrod oiling. AND to oil through the pushrods requires Bushing the block and special roller lifters. But if you don't fall into the T&D crowd don't worry about bushing the block (unless you want to correct lifter geometry and make it dead on perfect) Bushing a block is an expensive machining operation (~$400-$700 depending on the shop)

Let's start off with a factory block.... In a 273/318/340/360 if you want to run a Solid Roller: You have 2 options...... First was the OLD school way, Tubing the block and running any old .904" Mopar Solid Roller lifter. The link bars interfering with the block would all depend on what brand they were etc. But if any clearancing was required it would be minimal. TODAY we now have the Crane/Comp lifters that do not uncover the oil galley hole, and can be used without tubing the block. The only disadvantage I can see of these lifters is the fact that if one pops out you lose oil pressure instantly where as if you had tubed the block or bushed it, you would'nt lose oil pressure.

NOW if we have an R-3 or 340 Resto Block..... We have issues LOL. The R-3 has alot of extra material around the head bolt bulges, which interferes with the link bars on even the "supposed" Correct MP Roller lifters as Weedlayer found out. An R-3 will have to be clearanced for the link bars no matter what brand lifter you try to stick in there..... AND there is water behind the "meat" you are trying to remove, so CAREFULL material removal is the key here.... But once the block is clearanced, you just need and intermediate shaft with Bronze gear, due to billet steel roller cam being so hard. And obviously you need valvesprings that can handle the radical ramp profiles of a roller camshaft.

Sorry about all the Bushing the block confusion on the other post. But yes I did talk to W5Dart66 and the reason he had to bush his block for pushrod oiling WAS excessive clearance as I thought it was. But like I said before he is in the 2% minortity of guys who HAVE to bush their block.....

Also Matt, did you get my email about the Norris Rockers?

thanks guys that helps alot maybe carl will put this in the tech section. that sure makes it more clear to me with my limited SB knowledge lol. one more thing please explain the method of tubing the block (how its done).oops make that two why is the right side done (blocked)and this puts more oil to rockers?

From what I understand of the new lifters, up t just over .600 lift, no, you dont have to limit the oil to the lifters, but, if you are running .650 lift or more, they still suggest blocking off the lifter galley because the lifter wheel will still be pushed up into the oil galley. There is no way to stop from uncovering it past a certain lift.

You also have to block the drivers side galley too, or it will dump oil pressur too, but this is a lot easier to do. All of the oil is pumped directly into the passenger side galley. This galley interconnects with the mains and this is how they get thier oil. The drivers side lifter galley gets its oil from the front main. Oil is fed down to the #1 main from the passenger side lifter galley and then crosses over with an interconnecting passage to the drivers side galley. To stop the oil from getting there, you either tap and plug this passage at the main or drive a plug in the galley under the cam plate back far enough to cover up the feed hole.

Once again, if you are using pushrod oiling, you have to bush both sides of the block so that the lifters can get oil.

the cam in the roller motor i just bought is a 575 comp it only has one side blocked (right)with 1.6 rockers. when you say bushed are you talking about boring the lifter bores and installing bushings for lifter lubricatoin? sorry trying to get all this info cleared so we can store it. please be specific.

Quicktree, You need to bush the lifter bores if your going to oil the top end thru the pushrods. matt s

thanks Matt. I don't plan on oiling through the lifters just trying to figure these things out. I have two motors the stock stroke 360 that has the comp 575 roller. and the R3 stroker im building. I plan on using the long lifters like weedlayer without any oiling changes on the R3(just some grinding to clear the bars). the stock stroke only has one side (right) blocked was just trying to figure why only one side. the motor was runnng fine. I think this is good info for the archives. can anyone explain the bushing and tubing process(how it is done)and why only one side is blocked vs both blocked. thanks again Tony

If you use the CompCams #828-16 solid-body roller lifters, you do NOT need to do any mods. With 1.6 ratio Harland Sharp rockers I'll have right at .600 lift.(.563 with 1.5) This is the same exact cam and lifters I had running in it with the stock crank. The lifter valley did, however, need to be clearanced for the link-bars to clear. The lifters use captured link-bars.

In this pic of my stroker buildup, you can see a little of where I had to grind for them to clear. (it looks like more than it is)

nice Scotty good info.

Scotty, I have the solid body rollers. What your saying is that you don't have to put the tube in the oil gallery? Anyone else? matt s

Ryan , ill get back to you i'm busy building my tranny....thx

Yes, that is correct.

Quick, I did not block or alter the oil at all. I had trouble earlier with some solid lifters that hung up, and decided I wanted all the oil I could get to my lifters. My pressure is fine. Scotty's pic is the same as what has to be done with your R3, except you will have a lot to remove. I used a sawsall on the boss for the extra head bolt. Then just grind enough to fit the lifters. I had the entire project done in an afternoon. Like I emailed you, the only shop I found that knew what needed to be done was Bill Richardson at RAM. I talked to 4 of the big players and he was the only one that could help. Since this may be archived, I will also add that 2 other solid rollers that can be used in the R3 are the dog bone and a keyway. The dogbone requires the top of the lifter bosses be machined for a plate to bolt to each pair. The plate keeps them from turning. The keyway type requires a keyway to be broached in each lifter bore and each lifter has a pin to keep it from turning. Both of these are single type lifters without a bar, so you don't have to clearance the R3 block or remove most of the extra head bolt boss if you need it.

thanks weedy i've got to get the grinder ready lol. IM going to put a roller in it. what size roller did you use? picked up a ATI balancer (internal balanced) sunday for $150 also sent the indy heads out today to get ported things are coming along. this is good info for anyone going to use a roller in a SB. 71 I hope this has helped you also.

still waiting on someone to explain the bushing and tubing process (explain how it's done)?

Very good Ryan thanks!!

Here's the link to see Carls motor with the BHJ fixture on it, and some pics of the block after the bushings are in place......

http://www.moparts.com/~carl/captain/newsbstroker.htm

bump for Carl or a mod to save this!!!!! anybody seen Carl??????

unlawfl