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Re: Small block roller lifters [Re: clonestocker] #41
02/18/03 08:56 PM
02/18/03 08:56 PM
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CheddarHead till October
weedlayer Offline
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Quick, I did not block or alter the oil at all. I had trouble earlier with some solid lifters that hung up, and decided I wanted all the oil I could get to my lifters. My pressure is fine. Scotty's pic is the same as what has to be done with your R3, except you will have a lot to remove. I used a sawsall on the boss for the extra head bolt. Then just grind enough to fit the lifters. I had the entire project done in an afternoon. Like I emailed you, the only shop I found that knew what needed to be done was Bill Richardson at RAM. I talked to 4 of the big players and he was the only one that could help. Since this may be archived, I will also add that 2 other solid rollers that can be used in the R3 are the dog bone and a keyway. The dogbone requires the top of the lifter bosses be machined for a plate to bolt to each pair. The plate keeps them from turning. The keyway type requires a keyway to be broached in each lifter bore and each lifter has a pin to keep it from turning. Both of these are single type lifters without a bar, so you don't have to clearance the R3 block or remove most of the extra head bolt boss if you need it.

Re: Small block roller lifters [Re: weedlayer] #42
02/18/03 10:52 PM
02/18/03 10:52 PM
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thanks weedy i've got to get the grinder ready lol. IM going to put a roller in it. what size roller did you use? picked up a ATI balancer (internal balanced) sunday for $150 also sent the indy heads out today to get ported things are coming along. this is good info for anyone going to use a roller in a SB. 71 I hope this has helped you also.

Re: Small block roller lifters [Re: Quicktree] #43
02/19/03 12:22 PM
02/19/03 12:22 PM
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still waiting on someone to explain the bushing and tubing process (explain how it's done)?

Re: Small block roller lifters [Re: Quicktree] #44
02/19/03 02:51 PM
02/19/03 02:51 PM
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State College, PA
RyanJ Offline
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Quote:

still waiting on someone to explain the bushing and tubing process (explain how it's done)?




Boy we're not demanding are we? LOL J/K Tony.....

As far as the bushing process...... I think Carl has some pics of his block being done at Kammer & Kammer either on his website or in the tech archives, I don't feel like searching for them right now. But I'm fairly sure it's on his website. Anyhow, also there was an article in I belive MM a few months back, (MIGHT have been Mopar Action, can't remember which) where it showed block machining prcesses being done at Barton, and bushing the lifter bores was shown/ discussed. So might want to check those out.

But basically the procedure involves setting up the block in a BHJ fixture which locates the lifter galleys precisely as far as angle/alignment to the camshaft. Then while the fixture is still attached, it acts as a "guide" for the lifter bores to be drilled out to oversize. Then you have perfectly aligned/angled fresh lifter holes, albeit oversized..... And then the individual bronze bushings are installed by hand (basically pressed in) and then they are individually hand honed to size, giving you a perfect lifter oil clearance. Now the nice part about bushing a block is, you can bush to any lifter diameter you want....... Basically the only advantage here is you can bush to GM size and open up the solid roller lifter selection to an even greater amount. You can then use GM ultralight roller lifters in your SB Mopar. Of course if you were going with a Flat tappet cam, you would'nt want Smaller Dia. GM lifters though LOL. My R-3 will be bushed to GM size and I will use lightweight GM roller lifters..... Gotta be different

Now, as far as tubing a block....... and for simplicity sake I'm going to copy this word for word from Larry Shepard's book "How to Hot Rod Small Block Mopar Engines"

"INSTALLING TUBES"- Tubes are relatively inexpensive and much easier to install. Once you have the tubes, the drill and ream that's required (all are available from Chrylser), you can install the tubes yourself. Using the ream, enlarge the right side oil galley halfway from either end. Remove all the oil galley plugs. After reaming, fit the tubes in from either end; then re-install the plugs. Next pound the round nosed, tube peening tool through each tappet bore on the right side to dent the tube in properly. Then with the long drill bit provided in the kit, drill all oil galleys from the mains, into the right oil galley tube. The last step is to block off the left side with a threaded pipe plug at the front of the block."

To tube a block you need both P4120603 (Tube and Peen tool package) and P5249508 (Drill and Ream Package) They sell them seperatley so if you ever do more than 1 block, you just buy both the first time and when you want to do second and third etc, you don't have to keep paying for a new drillbit and ream every time.....

Re: Small block roller lifters [Re: RyanJ] #45
02/19/03 03:28 PM
02/19/03 03:28 PM
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Very good Ryan thanks!!

Re: Small block roller lifters [Re: 71STROKERFISH] #46
02/19/03 03:44 PM
02/19/03 03:44 PM
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State College, PA
RyanJ Offline
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Here's the link to see Carls motor with the BHJ fixture on it, and some pics of the block after the bushings are in place......

http://www.moparts.com/~carl/captain/newsbstroker.htm

Re: Small block roller lifters #47
02/20/03 07:50 AM
02/20/03 07:50 AM
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bump for Carl or a mod to save this!!!!! anybody seen Carl??????

Re: Small block roller lifters [Re: 71STROKERFISH] #48
02/20/03 06:40 PM
02/20/03 06:40 PM
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