Re: strange flywheel/pressure plate wear
[Re: TJP]
#2061171
04/25/16 01:04 AM
04/25/16 01:04 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,112 A Banana Republic near you.
JohnRR
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,112
A Banana Republic near you.
|
You all missed the mark on this one. It's the basics of manual transmission. If you guys were real technical support people you all would have pink slips.
Before installing new parts the bell housing needs to be inspected for cracks and checked for run-out and squareness while bolted to the block and all fasteners torqued to spec. While I don't discount the need to check components, torque to spec. etc. I am curious as to how a misaligned bell housing would result in that wear pattern. If it were that far out of center or parallelism there would be other issues IMO. Mr. pink slip needs to collect his pink slip and not let the door hit his backside on the way out ... after he's done holding the door for those he thinks failed. That is a pressure plate created problem, i Won't run a cast flywheel that is all heat checked as the checks are never really removed , a billet wheel is cheaper than a wheelchair.
running up my post count some more .
|
|
|
Re: strange flywheel/pressure plate wear
[Re: moparx]
#2061416
04/25/16 02:51 PM
04/25/16 02:51 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,141 East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
RoadRunner
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,141
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
|
You all missed the mark on this one. It's the basics of manual transmission. If you guys were real technical support people you all would have pink slips.
Before installing new parts the bell housing needs to be inspected for cracks and checked for run-out and squareness while bolted to the block and all fasteners torqued to spec. well, i'm not caring if i get a pink slip or not [i'm retired], but just how many transmission assemblies [clutch, pressure plate, bellhousings] were dialed in to be true at the original assembly plant ? now you are correct the parts in question need to be inspected for cracks, burrs on mounting surfaces, bolt torque, etc. but over the years i have ran into problems with clutch discs and flywheel/pressure plate chattering. in all but a couple instances, the only way the problem was fixed was replacement of clutch parts. no dial-in of the bell was done. i am very well aware of the importance of the dial in process and the need for parallelism of the mounting surfaces, but there are more cars out there running just fine without those checks being done than those that have. when replacing parts these days however, care must be taken to insure there are no burrs on mating surfaces, and things such as pressure plate fingers are even heights and throwout bearing flanges are not dinked up. aftermarket bells need special attention. back in my day, however, replacement parts were of better quality than those available today. the OP asked for advice and all i could give is what i have ran into in over 50+ years of playing with these things. i make no claims about me being the only "super genius" in the land and a person should not listen to anyone else's experiences or expertise. you have valid points, and one could and should check these things. but to have us all "fired" because we state our life experiences is just a little course. it just kinda rubbed me the wrong way. i apologize if i have offended you. I am not sure on other manufacturers, but Mopar didn't have to dial in bell housings as they were machined already on the block. Somewhere I have an old black and white picture showing this. So, as long as the original bell housing and block are together, there should never be an issue. Once you change the bell housing, then you need to do some alignment. Certainly checking the other parts is good practice. I agree that quality of some parts may not be as expected.
68 Road Runner (383/4speed, post car w/decor pkg) - Major Project 69 Road Runner w/472 Hemi & 4 speed. 70 Challenger R/T SE EF8 w/ V9J, U - A32 - Major Project 2023 Ford Mach 1
|
|
|
Re: strange flywheel/pressure plate wear
[Re: JohnRR]
#2061698
04/25/16 10:31 PM
04/25/16 10:31 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,324 Prospect, PA
BSB67
master
|
master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,324
Prospect, PA
|
That is a pressure plate created problem, i Won't run a cast flywheel. A billet wheel is cheaper than a wheelchair.
Fixed, IMO.
|
|
|
Re: strange flywheel/pressure plate wear
[Re: JohnRR]
#2061782
04/26/16 12:46 AM
04/26/16 12:46 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,564 Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,564
Omaha Ne
|
|
|
|
Re: strange flywheel/pressure plate wear
[Re: RoadRunner]
#2061907
04/26/16 10:31 AM
04/26/16 10:31 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,671 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
|
"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,671
north of coder
|
You all missed the mark on this one. It's the basics of manual transmission. If you guys were real technical support people you all would have pink slips.
Before installing new parts the bell housing needs to be inspected for cracks and checked for run-out and squareness while bolted to the block and all fasteners torqued to spec. well, i'm not caring if i get a pink slip or not [i'm retired], but just how many transmission assemblies [clutch, pressure plate, bellhousings] were dialed in to be true at the original assembly plant ? now you are correct the parts in question need to be inspected for cracks, burrs on mounting surfaces, bolt torque, etc. but over the years i have ran into problems with clutch discs and flywheel/pressure plate chattering. in all but a couple instances, the only way the problem was fixed was replacement of clutch parts. no dial-in of the bell was done. i am very well aware of the importance of the dial in process and the need for parallelism of the mounting surfaces, but there are more cars out there running just fine without those checks being done than those that have. when replacing parts these days however, care must be taken to insure there are no burrs on mating surfaces, and things such as pressure plate fingers are even heights and throwout bearing flanges are not dinked up. aftermarket bells need special attention. back in my day, however, replacement parts were of better quality than those available today. the OP asked for advice and all i could give is what i have ran into in over 50+ years of playing with these things. i make no claims about me being the only "super genius" in the land and a person should not listen to anyone else's experiences or expertise. you have valid points, and one could and should check these things. but to have us all "fired" because we state our life experiences is just a little course. it just kinda rubbed me the wrong way. i apologize if i have offended you. I am not sure on other manufacturers, but Mopar didn't have to dial in bell housings as they were machined already on the block. Somewhere I have an old black and white picture showing this. So, as long as the original bell housing and block are together, there should never be an issue. Once you change the bell housing, then you need to do some alignment. Certainly checking the other parts is good practice. I agree that quality of some parts may not be as expected. i have seen that pic you refer to a few times. in the early 70's to 1984 i owned a junk yard [the correct term at that time] and we commonly got in 4spd a&b body wrecks, plus big and small block vehicles of all kinds. we sold many mis-matched engine/bellhousing combos and had no problems with transmission shifting issues or clutch/pressure plate/flywheel problems, provided the clutch parts and flywheel were from the same setup. never dialed in a bell. in fact, i only realized that should be done after i sold the yard ! of the problems we did encounter, it was mostly due to either the inexperience of the end user during assembly, or something stupid such as a contaminated clutch disc or sloppy assembly techniques such as forcing a transmission input shaft through a non-aligned clutch disc, wrong throw out bearing, or burrs on mating surfaces. we sold a ton of ford and gm parts too, and the issues were the same. nobody back in that time checked bellhousing alignment. but that could be because we were located in the "sticks", and probably would be considered "farmers" by today's standards. was it "right" ? he!! no.... but it worked as it was designed to. once again, just my life's experience. and i'm absolutely positive others around the country have had the same results. ![beer beer](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/beer.gif)
|
|
|
|
|