I'm building a 512 stroker for my street driven '69 Charger.

Icon forged pistons (10.9:1)
Molnar 4.25" forged crank
Molnar 7.100" rods
Pro-Gram billet main caps w/ARP studs
Trick Flow heads (untouched)
Torker II intake
Holley 870 street avenger (for now)
Lunati Voodoo hyd. roller 294/302 .560/.565 (can't remember .005 specs)
Cloyes True Double Roller
Crane Gold Race roller rockers
MP ignition w/chrome box
Accel Super Coil
Milidon 8qt (iirc) pan w/windage tray
I will get either TTI 1 7/8" or 2" headers (whichever fit best)

Car has 3.55's and a Cope billet drum 727.

This is not a track car, occasional maybe, but something fun on the street.

I contacted PTC and Dynamic and got conflicting recommendations for converters.

Dynamic said to use a 11795 SP080(BC if I want billet. This is a "tight" 9.5" and should flash between 3600-4000.

PTC recommended using a 9.5" with a 2800 flash and if I can read my sloppy hand writing it's 9.5 TF-8-N.

These seem like very different converters based on the flash numbers. I'm looking for advice or insight if anyone is familiar with either of these converters and which one makes the most sense given my build.

The only thing I will upgrade in the future will be to a Dana 60 but with the same gear basically, 3.54's.

Thanks for any input.

i just have a SB but i liked the dynamic 4,400 stall a lot more than the 2,800 one that was in it before. I'm sure there is a bit more slip on the expressway but i don't drive that far on it and the stop light fun with the higher stall is a blast!

Your gonna make good torque with a 512.. I would
think for a street car a 3500 stall would be great..
what did they figure for the max torque rpm

The higher stall will blow the tires off with very little effort. And the bottom end will feel a little more "spongy" as the converter slips a bit and lets the engine rev a bit easier in the RPM range between the two converters. There will also be a bit more heat with the looser converter on the street.

What kind of tires and suspension do you have? With a 500+ inch engine and nearly 4000 stall, there will not be much traction on the street. With my 500" wedge, 4000 stall PTC converter and 3.91s in the Cuda, I could bust 275s loose at 45 MPH. The first couple of times it happened I wasn't ready for it. That was a trip! I don't race KOS anymore, so my current build will not see much track time. I intend to run a 3,200 +/- stall this time around.

I am inclined to think that 4000 stall behind a 500" wedge is a bit much for most street cars. But that is just my opinion.

I agree, the loose converter will make the car both slower (no traction) and more difficult to launch on the street.

Been running 4.10`s, and 8" vert and 1050 dommy for years and it can be tricky for sure and can blow off ANY tires when mashed you just have to have some finess. My trans never goes over 190 and that`s in extreme summer desert heat............enjoy...........

I've got a fairly stout 517" combo with 3.54 Dana and I run a 9 1/2" PTC that FB stalls to around 3600 and flashes to 4400, it drives around about like a stock converter. I have a manual VB and hardly ever use First gear, drives great and doesn't feel overly slippy at highway speeds. When I nail it from a 45 mph roll the tires Haze instantly in High gear.

I doubt I have the Part # anymore but I was very specific in the parameters, I suspect this converter would be very loose in a 440" motor but behind the 517 it works great at just about any speed.

I really don't even think PTC could make a 9.5 tight enough to only stall at 2800 with your engine combo.

I would run a 4000 stall 9 or 9.5

For your deal I would sell that Torker two intake and buy a Eddy Performer RPM, the dual plane will be much more responcive below 2500 RPM than that old designed Torker two intake will ever be Thier also around 20 HP less on a engine dyno from 2500 RPM to 6000 RPM
As far as the converter the higher foot stall RPM will be much easier to drive at the track, which shouldn't be a real problem on the street, Heavy car, low stall, medium rear gear and short tires,not real good
I had Contintental make me a custom built street and strip 10 inch converter off of the dyno sheets on my first 512 C.I. pump gas motor for my old Duster, it would foot stall to 2300 RPM before sliding the skinny 165x15 ront tires forward at the track, it would then flash to 4400 to 4600 RPM depending on the track elevation and weather acording to the playback tach. I ended up breaking it and replaced it with Turbo Action 8 inch SS/AH 727 race converter that was way easier to drive, it would foot stall to 3600 RPM real easy, it would flash stall to 5100 to 5200 RPM at the track It was .2 ET quicker and two MPH faster in the 1/8 mile than the 10 inch converter was IHTHs

Well this is the post I have been waiting for and too afraid to post. I have virtually the same engine in a 69 Charger. 512 with Dwayne Porter ported Eddy Rpms, Little more cam and 373 rear gear.

Let me paint the picture

Previous combo

451 Stroker
906 Heads
509 Purple Shaft
4:10 Gear
B & M super Hole Shot converter

Car went 1.58 60' and ran 12.09 as a best

New current combo

512 as indicated above
PTC 9.5 Inch Converter

Car went 11.42 with a best 60' of 1.72

Either converter or trans went away last time I raced it so I am now looking for a different converter. Now don't get me wrong I am not bashing PTC in any way shape or form. I have one of their converters in my race car and it works great!

When I was looking for a converter for the charger I called 4 different converter companies and got 4 drastically different opinions. The B & M stalled at about 4500 and it was awesome both on the street and at the track. The added torque of the 512 still made the car a tire fryer but the 60' at the track sucked in comparison. I think that as soon as you say street car the company is not going to give you the converter you want.

I use the Dynamic 9.5 converter and it drives just as Streetwize said his does. It drives around on the street like a stock converter and does not slip at all at very low speeds. It will flash about 4200 at the track and works pretty good for my car that uses just SS springs in the back. Its best 60 is a 1.50 at 10.70's. It usually always 60's in the low 1.50's. But it drives so good on the street. With todays technology they can build converters that drive good and work at the track. Its not like the 70's anymore where the higher stall converter slips alot driving on the street. I would want the 3500 to 4000 converter myself if I were you in your car. As for blowing the tires off heck any strong street car on street tires will waste the tires unless you run drag radials. My car will fry street tires but I use the Hoosier 30 x 9 radial slicks when racing and they hook great for me. Ron

Thanks guys. It looks like you guys have me sold on the higher stall converter with all of the "blowing the tires off" comments.

I have BFG 295/50/15's on it right now. Yes, I already know...they suck at hooking up. I had a Eddy headed, 10.2:1, 292/.509 cam, Hooker Super Comp, B&M 3200...you know the rest and it would fry the tires instantly. But I like the way they look, and if I want to hook up I'm looking into a set of subframe connectors and stickier tires if I want to take it to the track.

I do have a dumb question, I thought I knew this...but now I feel like an idiot. What is the difference between "stall" and "flash"? I thought they were synonyms.

Typically most torque converter flash stall rating are done in third gear, no torque multiplication through the tranny gears, by running along at or close to 1500 RPM in high gear with a manual valve body and flooring it, if it flashes to 4500 RPM and then drops back to 4300 or 4400 RPM and stays here most converter company will say it is a 4500 RPM converter Normally most converters will not foot stall in 1st gear anywhere near thier advertsised stall ratings IHTHs I ask each converter company for thier foot stall RPM and the flash stall RPM their converters will do with a known HP and torque rated engine More power and torque will increase the stall RPM, less HP and torque will decrease it

They might be similar, but rated different?
I have an Ultimate 9" converter custom built to be "tight" because I planned on doing more street driving, and on the street under part throttle you would think it was a near stock converter, it even wants to pull at idle. Under full throttle the converter flashes to 4,500+ which is pretty cool for a street/strip setup, but for a strip only car you would not want it so tight, because even though it "flashes" to the higher stall, it does it slower than a loose converter. I guess I'm trying to describe it has a softer "hit" on the launch, than a loose race converter.
Not a big deal for me with a near stock suspension, but not optimal for good 60' times.

In comparison, my old 10.5 Dynamic 3,500 stall was looser than this 9" converter even though it had a lower flash stall speed.
Hard to compare how the hit off the line because switched to a different engine combination.