Drove it on the street yesterday. It's idling a little high and cuts out at higher RPM. Not sure the secondaries are opening. I'll check that today. Also looks like it's running lean at cruising speed. May have to adjust the metering rod tree or change the jets/metering rods.

Got a jet kit and increased the primary jets 6 sizes and it's running a lot better but still cutting out when the rpms get up around maybe 4000 or so. No tach, only guessing. Not sure what is causing it. Tried adjusting the timing and no change. Swapped to a small Edelbrock carb, no change.

Any ideas? Thinking maybe a sloppy timing set or plugs. I reused the double roller timing set. Didn't think it was very loose but I don't know. Plugs are auto lite 85 gapped to stock spec.

Possibility of valve float?
Fuel delivery?

Swapped carbs with no change. I would think that valve float would just cause it to nose over not miss.

Running out of fuel(causing leaning out also possible cause of miss fire),week pump,in tank pickup restricted,fuel flow to the carb?Fuel pressure gauge to verify?
Coil heating up,pickup coil,but would also heat up over time.

That's what I thought which is why I tried another carb. I also have a wide band O2 sensor that still shows rich (12:1).

I'm using an aftermarket coil (Acel Super Stock). I do still have the original that I can try. Anyway to test the dizzy? It still has the electronic ignition that was on the original /6 if that makes any difference.

Try setting your timing at 12-14 degrees with no vacuum advance. Run it with no vacuum advance and see how it acts.

So... I suspected the ignition system. Found a billet ready to run ProComp distributor (I can hear the grumbles now) on Craigslist for cheap. Removed the Mopar electronic ignition, distributor, coil and wiring. Reconfigured it for the ready to run with their recommended coil and it will actually run out the back door now! It still doesn't have the power it should.

I did some horse trading for a Mopar M1 single plane and it runs harder in the upper rpms than it did with the cast intake. I also found a Weiand tunnel ram with 2 Edelbrock 1407 carbs for a good price. I'm rebuilding the carbs now. I know. Both bad matches for the engine. I do have a plan.

The cam sounds like it has some lifters that won't stay pumped up. When you start it cold, it sounds like it is missing. Rev it a little end it goes away and doesn't come back. I now have a Hughes Performance Whiplash cam, lifters and valve springs ready to replace the stock set. This cam is made for low compression engines and it is installed advanced to build dynamic cyl compression. Sounds great at idle too!

Once I get my buddies FJ60 out of the garage (installed efi on it), I'll get started on the cam swap. Near future plan will be FItech dual fuel bodies (good for 1200hp naturally aspirated) on the tunnel ram also controlling the timing. The $ I make from the FJ work will almost get me the EFI for my truck. I wish it would fit under the stock hood, but not with air cleaners installed. I'll try it with the hood off for a while then I'm probably going to a lift off fiberglass hood with a 6 pack scoop or I'll just cut a hole in the hood.

I'm also going to be parting out my rock crawler and using some parts for this truck including the efi fuel tank from a 98 Grand Cherokee. It will go behind the rear axle like I used to have it in the Powerwagon before it was converted.

I wasn't using the vac advance and had the heavy advance spring removed.