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Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2252703
02/13/17 12:29 AM
02/13/17 12:29 AM
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Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer Offline OP
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-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: 68dodge] #2252764
02/13/17 02:03 AM
02/13/17 02:03 AM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Originally Posted By 68dodge
Nice truck, looks great lowered. Getting close to setting my 505 in.


68dodge, how did you get the front that low without riding on the bump stops all the time?


-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2253283
02/14/17 12:35 AM
02/14/17 12:35 AM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Running. Waiting on the driveshaft. Need to figure out why the alternator isn't charging.

https://youtu.be/sXbtCUwc5LA


-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2253794
02/14/17 11:55 PM
02/14/17 11:55 PM
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Well, the alternator wasn't charging because the voltage regulator was bad. Had an original on hand that fixed it.

Struggling to get those old stamped steel valve covers to seal. Any recommendations?? Done them twice now and no luck. Tried the regular cork and the thick high temp both with Ultra Gray sealer. They aren't slipping out.


-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2253877
02/15/17 01:53 AM
02/15/17 01:53 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 516
,Pa.
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Mopwer. Bump stops are removed. Truck now has tubular upper control arms. Truck also has spindle that are machined to fit. Setting the suspension up for street and drag racing. I should say more drag set up.

Last edited by 68dodge; 02/15/17 01:54 AM.
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2254306
02/15/17 11:26 PM
02/15/17 11:26 PM
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Freeport IL USA
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Originally Posted By MoPwer
Well, the alternator wasn't charging because the voltage regulator was bad. Had an original on hand that fixed it.

Struggling to get those old stamped steel valve covers to seal. Any recommendations?? Done them twice now and no luck. Tried the regular cork and the thick high temp both with Ultra Gray sealer. They aren't slipping out.


The old 70s big block steel valve covers with exhaust manifolds were a pita to seal. If you got the gasket to seal on the tin, the heat from the exhaust manifolds would cook the bottom edge of the gaskets. Often the area around the bolt holes would be pulled down towards the head, and the covers would leak between the bolts. Usually, every time you replaced the gaskets, you needed to flip the covers upside down, and set the area around the bolt holes on a flat surface, and tap the covers flat with a hammer. You need to flatten all 6 holes, but usually the two bottom corners were the worst. You want to look the covers over well, after several beatings (er, I mean flattenings), they tend to crack around the cover base where it flattens out for the gasket. Those cracks will drive you nuts thinking the gaskets are leaking, when its actually the cracks in the covers themselves. If you have installed a couple sets of gaskets, you need to flatten the area around the cover bolts, and you really need to look for cracks.

With the manifolds, there is a lot of heat retained across the bottom of the covers. If you do not use the high temp gaskets, you will be replacing the gaskets at least every year. If you can add manifold gaskets, or space the manifold away from the head, even 1/8", it will extend the valve cover gasket life a bunch. At any rate, you need to be sure nothing is building up between the manifold and the cover, if air isn't passing between them, the gaskets don't stand a chance. Gene

Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: poorboy] #2254435
02/16/17 03:20 AM
02/16/17 03:20 AM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Originally Posted By poorboy
Originally Posted By MoPwer
Well, the alternator wasn't charging because the voltage regulator was bad. Had an original on hand that fixed it.

Struggling to get those old stamped steel valve covers to seal. Any recommendations?? Done them twice now and no luck. Tried the regular cork and the thick high temp both with Ultra Gray sealer. They aren't slipping out.


The old 70s big block steel valve covers with exhaust manifolds were a pita to seal. If you got the gasket to seal on the tin, the heat from the exhaust manifolds would cook the bottom edge of the gaskets. Often the area around the bolt holes would be pulled down towards the head, and the covers would leak between the bolts. Usually, every time you replaced the gaskets, you needed to flip the covers upside down, and set the area around the bolt holes on a flat surface, and tap the covers flat with a hammer. You need to flatten all 6 holes, but usually the two bottom corners were the worst. You want to look the covers over well, after several beatings (er, I mean flattenings), they tend to crack around the cover base where it flattens out for the gasket. Those cracks will drive you nuts thinking the gaskets are leaking, when its actually the cracks in the covers themselves. If you have installed a couple sets of gaskets, you need to flatten the area around the cover bolts, and you really need to look for cracks.

With the manifolds, there is a lot of heat retained across the bottom of the covers. If you do not use the high temp gaskets, you will be replacing the gaskets at least every year. If you can add manifold gaskets, or space the manifold away from the head, even 1/8", it will extend the valve cover gasket life a bunch. At any rate, you need to be sure nothing is building up between the manifold and the cover, if air isn't passing between them, the gaskets don't stand a chance. Gene


No cracks and the gaskets on it right now are the high temp. I also try to straighten the flange all the way around before putting it all back together. I ordered another set that has the steel insert. I guess I'll find out where they are leaking when I pull them off. I have heard of some folks using a contact adhesive to stick the gasket to the valve cover before installing them. That way it won't move when snugging them down.

I have some sheet metal that I will be fabricating some heat shields for the manifolds.

Last edited by MoPwer; 02/16/17 03:21 AM.

-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2255549
02/18/17 05:09 PM
02/18/17 05:09 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
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The 15x 10s are on.



-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2255722
02/18/17 11:35 PM
02/18/17 11:35 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Rear axle brake lines done.



-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2255726
02/18/17 11:37 PM
02/18/17 11:37 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Getting there.



-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2255862
02/19/17 02:59 AM
02/19/17 02:59 AM
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Posts: 257
Alberta
4
440_Offroader Offline
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The truck looks good and I love the wheels! Not sure if it's the 4x4 guy in me, but the tires seem a little small in the back? Maybe the fenders look so big! Good job on the D60. It looks perfect under the truck. Great job.

Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2255918
02/19/17 12:04 PM
02/19/17 12:04 PM
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Freeport IL USA
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If the new rear tires are still as close to the inside box floor as the earlier picture shows, your going to have some serious tire rub. To assume a leaf spring axle doesn't move side to side a bit is a bad assumption. There needs to be at least 3/4" between the widest point on the side of the tire, and any body structure. At 3/4". some rub may occur, but less then 3/4" damage can happen. Years ago I had a couple sidewall damaged tires and a tore up inner fender to prove my point. Gene

Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: 440_Offroader] #2255994
02/19/17 02:48 PM
02/19/17 02:48 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Originally Posted By 440_Offroader
The truck looks good and I love the wheels! Not sure if it's the 4x4 guy in me, but the tires seem a little small in the back? Maybe the fenders look so big! Good job on the D60. It looks perfect under the truck. Great job.


Thanks. The rear tires are the 275s I had on the 8.5" wheels. After I melt those, I'll put on 295s up


-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: poorboy] #2255996
02/19/17 02:50 PM
02/19/17 02:50 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Originally Posted By poorboy
If the new rear tires are still as close to the inside box floor as the earlier picture shows, your going to have some serious tire rub. To assume a leaf spring axle doesn't move side to side a bit is a bad assumption. There needs to be at least 3/4" between the widest point on the side of the tire, and any body structure. At 3/4". some rub may occur, but less then 3/4" damage can happen. Years ago I had a couple sidewall damaged tires and a tore up inner fender to prove my point. Gene


They had about 3/4" before. Now there is over 1.25" clearance. The extra width pulled the tire bulge away from the inner wheel well. I narrowed the rear width specifically for these wheel specs.

Last edited by MoPwer; 02/19/17 02:52 PM.

-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2256486
02/20/17 09:58 AM
02/20/17 09:58 AM
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Buford, GA
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Lookin' good. thumbs
Only problem is you're making me want another one. frown wink biggrin



Tim


'71 Charger 383/727
'17 Challenger SXT (Wifeys car wink )
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2259621
02/26/17 02:09 AM
02/26/17 02:09 AM
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Phoenix, AZ
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These should seal that pig up. Plus they are chrome so they are good for at least 25 HP!





-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2260214
02/27/17 12:25 AM
02/27/17 12:25 AM
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Phoenix, AZ
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I built some heat shields for the log manifolds.





-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2261450
03/01/17 01:56 AM
03/01/17 01:56 AM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Driveshaft showed up today. Installed that and started it up. Warmed it up but it wasn't idling very well. Then it started missing. Checked all the plug wires with the timing light. All good. Pulled the plugs and they all looked ok. Checked the compression and they were all 125-135psi EXCEPT for #1. 0 psi. Nothing... Pulled the drivers side valve cover and turned the engine over by hand. Rockers were opening and closing the valves. Used my borescope to check the combustion chamber and the piston. All looked ok from what I could tell and the piston was going up and down.

I just called it for tonight. Next will be a leak-down test to see where the compression is going. After thinking about it, it is probably excessive lifter preload. They did have .060-.080" but they were no where near bottoming out. I read that some folks just bolt them up without issues. I guess that they were just lucky.

So I either need custom pushrods or a set of adjustable rockers with the cup style pushrods. The pushrods would be less expensive, but I could go to 1.6 ratio rockers with the adjustable type if I have enough clearance.


Last edited by MoPwer; 03/01/17 07:22 AM. Reason: Figured out the issue

-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2261921
03/01/17 11:26 PM
03/01/17 11:26 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
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Nope. Couldn't be that easy. There is some other reason the exhaust valve isn't sealing. Brought the piston up to TDC on the compression stroke and put air pressure in the cyl. It was coming out the tailpipe. Going to pull the exhaust manifold and see what I can see. Heads were built with new valves and components.

Last edited by MoPwer; 03/02/17 10:59 PM.

-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
Re: 78 Utiline Build [Re: MoPwer] #2262392
03/02/17 11:50 PM
03/02/17 11:50 PM
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Pulled the exhaust manifold off and the rocker assembly. Put air pressure in the cylinder and it's definitely coming out the exhaust valve. I can see that it is open using my bore scope. The guide is either too tight or the valve is bent somehow. Either way, the heads have to come off.


-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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