is the '73 the one with the heavy rods etc or a std forged crank 440?

Standard cast.

iirc 73 or 74 was the changeover year (supposedly could be either way). I bought a hiway patrol orange 440 from a '73 fury & it had the heavy rods/dampener (6 pak?). Adam you've gotten alot of love on this Q (over 2K hits!), good luck with the build & holler how it turns out

The 67 will have a forged crank to the 73's cast if that matters to you, not that it will at your hp level. If you're looking for an engine to clean up and drop in, take the 73.

(If yer gonna pound it, go as strong as you can...


Better to have it than wish you did...)

I ran a low compression 440 with a 509.

Don't do it.

The car was an absolute pig down low and only mediocre in the mid range and above.
We dropped a 484 cam in a low compression 400 and that Road Runner was much quicker than mine.

Adam, I don't know if this helps you any, but here goes. I put a rebuilt 440 in my Fury last year to replace the 318 poly. Guy sold the motor to build a twin turbo 440. I bought it for 1500 bucks complete. I don't know actual compression, but i was told it is 9 to 1, has 452 heads, manifolds, and the old grind 484(cant remember the lsa). Car has a 2100 to 2400 rebuilt converter from Transgo, and 2.94 open rear end. I have the initial timing at 16, total at 36. Even with the big C body behind it, it pulls pretty durn good, especially when you wind it up. If I had 3.91 gears and a bigger stall like you, I believe it would run like a raped ape. Good luck on the build, and the thread has some good info on it for others looking to get some go on a budget.

Picked up the engine today.

Casting code is 3698830-44-10
Date code 10-28-72
Stamp in pad J440 11 13 2

The thermoquad is gone, it had a Carter with an adapter plate

I Guess Im not going to be able to reuse alot of these brackets and pulleys when I ditch the smog pump and A/C, and Im pretty sure my B body uses a rear sump pan.

Gonna take it apart and see what condition the bores and rotating assembly are in, and find out which heads I have.

Apparently this engine came from a large auction of C body cars in Bend Oregon a little while ago. The guy I bought it from bought 8 imperials from this auction

440 source has the brackets and pulleys to delete the A/C for very reasonable prices! Cars usually use the center sump whereas trucks use the rear sump pan.

That looks like it has a #699 pan. That and the #187 are the ones the BB A body swap guys use. If it's not all beat up it's worth about $100.

Also appears to have a thin balancer, so you have a steel crank.

I didnt know a thin balancer indicated steel crank, cool! Got most of the exterior disassembled and the engine is now on a stand. Gotta clean it before I take it any further so I dont get dirt on the valve train and internals.

Ive bought the 440 source brackets for the engine I had to sell, they are reasonably priced but it will eat into my budget. The full kit is 399.

On the bright side I will be able to recover all of that possibly more when I clean and sell the pulleys, brackets and other things I wont be re-using. The throttle linkage and kickdown will be perfect for a C-body guy, and I removed the RV2 compressor complete with all brackets and bolts so Ill be able to sell that pretty easy as well.

vdriver, thanks for the tip on the pan.

Havent found any heads for sale yet (here, ebay or craigslist) that are a better value than a new set of 440 source stealths. I will most likely be buying those, and re-use the rockers and shafts from my heads.

Will wait till I pull the heads to make any firm decisions.

Stealth's are awesome for the money.

I ran a standard port set on a '76 440 and it was a fun street ride.

A few years down the road, you can rip them off and send them to Modern Cylinder Head to have them CNC ported to REALLY wake up the motor.

I just meant alternator bracket and pulleys to clean up the front of the engine?! Not sure what you spent $399 on?!

I have power steering. Not sure if can make it work with the ps bracket I have, or if the ps pump is any good. 399 buys the whole front engine kit, which is 150 cheaper than if you buy all the pieces individually. Gotta take a close look at what I have 1st, then decide best way to go. I may only need a few brackets and pulleys

I would not sweat that as you will be cleaning EVERYTHING clean from head to toe & on the valve train slide hammering a core plug out on one end of the shaft then driving out the other one. keep the rockers in order (if reusing em). You mentioned someone in Bend Oregon purcasing a lot of Imperials, I'm wondering if it is the Cab character? I would put it past him

That water pump housing is heavy, you going aluminum, or just an earlier one that exits on the other side with less iron?

I'm O.C.D. Robert I have to at least get the block clean. The guy I bought the block from is in Port Orchard Washington. He was a buyer at the auction in Bend. If I'm going with a new hydraulic flat tappet cam can I reuse my lifters?

It all boils down to cost. Aluminum water pump is low on my priority list but I will switch if I have enough money left over

Nope. New flat tappet cams needs new lifters.

Kevin

Why are you spending 400 bucks on a front engine kit? All you need is a used standard alternator bracket and ps pump bracket. Neither of which are costly.