A little trick . I use a BMX alumium four bolt gooseneck that holds the handle bars on as a removal tool. Bolt it down and hit it out with a hammer.

I believe you will need to bolt the K member back onto the body before the torsion bars will come out. Both ends are in a machined housing and need to move about 2" - 3" backwards to come out. The hex on each end of the bar is also a machined surface about 1 1/2" long. Picture a nut in a deep well socket, the bar is the nut, the socket on one end is the lower control arm pivot, and the other end socket is the trans crossmember. The nuts are one piece, the ends do not give or flex. I don't believe the bars will move through the machined housings with the weight of the K member hanging on them.

The other option is to unbolt the lower control arm pivot point on both control arms and pull the K member forward off the control arm pivot points, then you may be able to remove each lower control arm off the torsion bars individually. Once the control arms are removed from the bars, they will probably come out of the trans crossmember.

When you reassemble it, install everything except the torsion bar adjusting bolts, be sure the control arms are pointing down, then install the bars, then the adjusting bolts. If the control arm torsion bar sockets are not oriented correctly, the bars will bot have enough tension to support the car. Gene

PLEASE don't take this the wrong way but.....
you are referring to the torsion bars and not the strut rods, right?

Yes, I' m referring to the torsion bars.

Normally, the torsion bars are the first thing I remove. As mentioned, you need to bolt the K member back up. You'll never get the bars out with the bind you have them in.

^^ This.

Once again, thank you for the feedback!

I'm planning to try all the suggestions either tonight or tomorrow... it's been a busy week. I appreciate all the feedback. I will post my results once I have an opportunity to trial your suggestions.

Thanks again,
Vinny

Today, I purchased the torsion bar tool from Mancini's. I bolted the K-Member back to the body rail and installed the torsion bar assist tool. The torsion bars came out with no problem. Thank you again for all the input!

Here's the home made device I came up with to clamp my torsion bars so I could whack them out…. you don't want to hit or damage the bars!

Took a hell of a beating to get them loose, wore myself out with a 5lb sledge… if I did it again I'd heat up the receiving end at the subframe with a plumber's blowtorch first.

Good luck, - Art

67SAT the wood has too much give when you hit it, your loosing 1/2 your "wackem" power! Cleaning the crud out of the receivers (both ends of the bar) helps a lot, and a little penetrating oil also helps, but sometimes you just have to show them (the T bars) who is going to win. Gene