I have a opportunity to purchase a tube chassis with strut setup front end. This chassis was setup for a chevy 2 with 110 inch wheel base. Im looking at installing this chassis on my 62 valiant.

1967 chevy 2
Wheelbase110 in (2,794 mm)
Length183 in (4,648 mm) Sedan, Coupe [8]
187.4 in (4,760 mm) Station wagon
Width71.3 in (1,811 mm)
Height55.1 in (1,400 mm) Sedan
52.8–53.8 in (1,341–1,367 mm) Coupe

62 valiant
Wheelbase106.5 in (2,710 mm)
Length183.7 in (4,670 mm)
Width70.4 in (1,790 mm)
Height53.3 in (1,350 mm)Curb weight2,750 lb (1,250 kg)

Correct me if im wrong but with all measurements being as close as they are minus the wheel base which i was thinking i could change the placement of the strut towers if i needed to adjust the wheel base.
IS THIS DOABLE AND OR IS IT WORTH IT
More questions to come
Thanks moparts in advance for the help

Height at the cage will be a determining factor on how far the body can be raked over the chassis.
I would pay special attention to the cage placement front to rear on the wheelbase as well to prevent a chassis bar from being outside the window areas.
lastly check frame lengths for and aft of wheelbase for body interference.

30 years ago I knew a guy who put a cuda body down over an old roadrunner chassis. Ending up cutting about a foot off of the back and 6" off the front.

Sounds cool A. I'll come help if you need it.

Dennis

Depends on your goals, your ability to modify it, and how good of a deal it is.

Also should consider how the cage will line up with the doors and the track width the chassis is setup for

Might consider moving the front or rear (or both) wheel openings to accommodate the wheelbase of the chassis.

No mention of what rear suspension is in it. Might be easier to move the rear forward some and move the wheel opening forward instead of opening it up in both front and rear. That's often done when backhalving a car anyway. Depends on what tire you use. You won't know exactly what needs to be done until you make the leap and set the body down on the chassis. Between body placement and moving the rear, 3 1/2" of wheelbase difference should be able to be dealt with. However, I have an idea that may not be the biggest issue you will have to deal with.

Chassis is setup for a four link.
Yes its a good deal in my minds eye,as for my fab ability i like to think there aint anything i cant make,i can tig,mig,and arc wled.
I just dont have the space to make a chassis from scratch.

Dennis i may take you up on that offer

Also have to consider...who built it, is it professionally done or was it slapped together in somebody's backyard? Most important if it's going to go to the track, is it certified and/or will it certify? If not, it's worthless except for the parts that may be bolted to it.

Guy says it was professional built and it was never certified.
Hes supposed to send me some clean pics of some the welds.

If the main hoop will fit within the confines of the body, the rest can be made to work with relative ease. Also, if it is mild steel, it's not worth much. Few hundred bucks, tops.........assuming it fits.

I would also say that whoever built the chassis, is not the one who cobbled up that truck iron fuel cell mount in the rear..........unless the rest of it also looks that rough upon closer inspection.

To see if it will fit........measure the hoop at widest point and measure inside of car. Also measure height of hoop from rocker bar and then determine, with rocker bar properly positioned in rocker area, that hoop is not too high or too low in body

I'm with Monte...if it's MS it ain't worth much.

I would try it if I got the stuff cheep. You can mod it slightly to fit your needs as long as you can weld.
Hard to tell from pics but your car looks bigger then a little nova

How was it cut out, did they just chop it off next to the bottom attaching bars with a torch? to start with, I would take measurements. Start with your car. As the cage needs to fit within, measure under the car rocker panel inside to inside, both front and back,as the cage / frame will be welded to them. Then inside the car roof to lowest floor area behind the seat where the hoop would be located. That would be a start to see if it is even close.

Yes guys its MS and the guy is asking 500 bucks and it would be a 10 hour around trip drive.

Mild steel can get certified to 7.50 and that's plenty fast for 95% of the Moparts members

The chassis wasnt cut up its intact heres a couple more pics the guy is supposed to take some better ones later today or tomorrow along with take some key measurement

That's not around Western Md. is it? There was one floating around a couple years back that had a slightly bent front clip on it.

$500 is a lot cheaper than what it would cost to build a new one, but then again, it has been sitting in a pile of leaves for who knows how long. There is a good chance that it isn't worth more than scrap value at this point. If some of those bottom tubes are rusted out then you have a mess on your hands.

This is a very good point. The thing has never been cert'd. I'd be taking a sonic tester with me and checking tube thickness. Anything is possible.

Good point Andy if i do go to look it over thats one area ill definitely look over throughly.

Skicker this chassis isnt in Maryland not saying it didnt come from there but ill look over the front segment just in case.

Looks like a pets potty stop in that middle picture.