First - differences between my challenger and my friends red 68 charger:

- both 383s with KB400 dome pistons
- my stealths (stock valve springs, better locks) vs his 906s - both shaved approx 0.045"
- my 220/226 with hughes lifters, degreed +4 deg vs 2330 cam
- my HP manifolds+ 2 1/4" stock exhaust and super turbos vs his tti headers + 2.5" exhaust and some magnaflows
- my dp4b vs his performer rpm
- my holley 770 street avenger vs his 800 thunder avs
- my MP electronic dizzy + noname blue box (this may be culprit of only 5k RPM) vs his mallory unilite (we both have blaster2 coils)
- my 3.55 + 26" bis ply vs his 3.23+ some 27" tyres
- my stock MP histall vert vs his hughes 2500
- both almsot stock 727s (my has cheetach VB)
- both PS/PB cars


My best times were at 50 deg F so good air but very bad traction so I definitely lost some time when taking off.

I guess I'm gonna first try chrome box cause I doubt It's valve float with such mild cam and quite quality lifters. Now we have deep winter so I cant try the car on the street.

Second, I'll check the fuel delivery at WOT. Gauge and fittings ordered at summit already.

Third, I'll have a new 2.5" exhaust made and stick to HP manifolds.

I'll refrain form tinkering with solid cam for now. You're all right that for a resto car it's not the best way.

I'll let you know what are the results when the snow is gone.

First verify you have adequate fuel delivery and the proper valvesprings in the motor. As you desribe the 383 is should want to rev to at least 5800 even with manifolds. I lije solids in 383's and 'generally' anything that makes a comparable 340 quicker will make a 383 quicker as well. What that means is, treat it more like a small block in terms of tuning.

Id like to run a solid with about 232/238 @ .050 and ~.520-ish lift on a 109-111 spread in at around 105 since you want to 'use it up' with a relatively low 6100-6300 rev cieling with the manifolds. Combined with a fairly tight 9 1/2" or 10" converter. That would shave about a 1/2 second off your times and the car will be more fun to drive as well. the cam will have a wider powerband ( come in sooner and stick around later) .

383's are fun and make good power, you just got to get them to the sweet spot quickly and let the revs do the rest.

the comp cams xs268 might work but i'd spread the lobe separation out. i've been thinking about an engle ep-43 intake lobe/ep-46 exhaust lobe for a build; it might work.

What mod could you make that would give you as much return as a $500 150 shot plate kit?

NOS is out of question - must look stock under hood. I can afford 3x nos kit to get the same result and have the car looking stock.
As I already have nice 1.6 adj rockers and I'm tempted to TRY the solid cam. Can you recomend any available cam with specs like Streetwize posted? Or I need to custom order it?

I can try the tighter converter first - any recommendation? I live in poland and i need something off the shelf.

Valve springs - they are stock stealth springs, they have 3 years now so I doubt they are a problem, moreover I don't have equipment to measure their pressure...

a Tight 9 1/2" or 10" T/A converter will still stall higher (~3000-3200) than either of the heavier (assumed) 11" verts you have. The advantage (especially with the solid cam) is the 383 motor will rev quicker and pull harder through the gears and the solid will help the smaller converter drive more like stock (i.e., more torque/response than a hydraulic) under normal driving.

A solid cam (when adjusted for lash) will idle and drive like a 10 degree @.050 smaller Hydraulic, but the faster valve action and .200"-up duration numbers will build torque sooner and rev higher. I immediately thought of the old Ultradyne NF56 lobe which is ~235@.050 and 150@.200 and .512" lift designed for an .875 (Ford) lifter profile, but in your case I would PM Fast68Plymouth and get him to send you a Comp Custom grind.

A cam such as that would definitely make a 383 "snap" a bit quicker and be more responsive and make ~15-20 more lb/ft across a broader powerband than a hydraulic, so for that reason primarily...I believe solids really help when you have a short stroke motor (that naturally WANTS to rev and needs all the extra torque it can get off the line) like a 340 or 383.