Re: Electrical Queston
[Re: OrangeProwler]
#1980961
01/01/16 11:59 AM
01/01/16 11:59 AM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,774 ohio
ruderunner
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,774
ohio
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The shunt style are mainly for decoration. You can just leave it unplugged and the vehicle will run just fine.
Conversion to voltmeter can and has been done. Theres probably a writeup on this site. Something you can do if your crafty.
Or just refinish yours.
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: Electrical Queston
[Re: OrangeProwler]
#1981000
01/01/16 12:54 PM
01/01/16 12:54 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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All ammeters are shunt style, it's just the location of the shunt that changed. It works as well reading current as the earlier ones did.
Ammeters are quicker acting than voltmeters, meaning if you loose charging it will register it almost instantly, whereas a voltmeter will gradually drop as the battery gets drained. Both tell you important information about your electrical system, but the information is complimentary, not interchangeable.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
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Re: Electrical Queston
[Re: OrangeProwler]
#1981045
01/01/16 02:00 PM
01/01/16 02:00 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,074 Manitoba Canada
67autocross
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,074
Manitoba Canada
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I have a question in regards to the later style electrical system that uses an external shunt but still has an ammeter. So, I have a couple of different options here. Option #1 is buy a NOS ammeter gauge and run with that. Option #2 is to send off to get the ammeter converted to a voltmeter.
Now, thus far the current ammeter is working however it has been in the car for 37 years now. I'm going to be installing a solid state IVR (Instrument Voltage Regulator) and cleaning up the connections on the firewall side anyways. But, I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask here. I know 1976 A Bodies, F-Bodies, and M-Bodies used a shunt style setup as well. Thoughts? I never had trouble with the newer style shunt ammeter, if yours is working I would just leave it, as far as I know they are trouble free. I did burn the ammeter in my 72 Scamp but was able to clamp the ring connectors together with vise grips to get home.
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
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Re: Electrical Queston
[Re: Supercuda]
#1982570
01/03/16 06:46 AM
01/03/16 06:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421 Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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All ammeters are shunt style, it's just the location of the shunt that changed. It works as well reading current as the earlier ones did.
Ammeters are quicker acting than voltmeters, meaning if you loose charging it will register it almost instantly, whereas a voltmeter will gradually drop as the battery gets drained. Both tell you important information about your electrical system, but the information is complimentary, not interchangeable. No all ammeters are not shunt type. The one in my 63 and that was in my 66 Dart are not shunt type. Mopar started around 1972 or there about using shunt type. All the shunt is is a wire of the proper gauge in parallel with the ammeter. The type like on my 63 has all the current go through the gauge so if my ammeter gauge gets an open circuit my car will be dead. On the shunt type the shunt carries 90% or more of the load and if the ammeter gets an open on that it wont affect the car for starting and running as the car will still work fine. Most shunt type ammeters dont move much at all like the standard full in series ammeter will. Mopar went to them so the customers would not complain about the needle on the ammeter moving so much. Ron
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