Turbos would be great for his build. I suggest doing the supercharger because the fabrication would be much easier for him. He could buy a ford, chevy, etc bracket to fit his supercharger, if it didn't come with one, he could pick up a piece of flat metal and use his angle grinder to shape it enough to mate the bracket to his engine and bring it in to have it welded solid if he doesn't have a welder. Next engine I build will be a SB build like this just to slap something together for fun.

SLEEEEPER looking motor...love it! Not to hijack, but QMD, what water pump are you running and I assume it was on the car at dragweek?

Thanks!

Meziere water pump. On car since 2005. Motor assembly replaced about 2 years ago. Was on car for dragweek.

I can only state this a E-58 360 is a great engine to build on sheer reliability I will stick to old models they can take a beating and keep on going Other then head gaskets the older model 360 can be built cheap. First that magnum is pig heavy period you need to get it light

Gears as deep as 4.56 or get short tires with 4.10s or 4.30s
Cheap cam Comp 268 single pattern or get a 280 magnum optional spec a 68 340 stick cam and you have power to 6000.
Get a LD 340 if possible stay away from single plane manifolds
650-750dbl pumper Do No=t over jet 70-72 top primary and 77 -78 sec jets
Rune a 4 hole 1-2" spacer and run a 195 stat except in dead of summer then 180 is acceptable
The conv is important but get a shift kit in trans that will shift for you, other then a man valve body the Darryl Young kits are hard to beat if you can find one
Avoid high vol oil pumps oil pressure of 40-60 is fine
Headers I run smaller tubes and a auto car and big tube on stick put a set of cut out on car max 2.5 inch max

You will not have the AMC rocker arrangement that magnum has on it I frankly don't like it. Too many years of working for AMC before Chrysler I guess

You will never probably be faster then the ricers you mentioned but competitive if you feel you want to beat them all forget that car get a Hell Cat or Mustang GT or Camaro SS But remember when the rice cars have blown their Engines up you will still be on the road and racing and have rice for dinner !
By the way I don't really care how fast someone else is I race my best time and try to beat that with min investment I have found anything after the 13's starts to cost in wear and tear and just plain time I don't believe in investing $ in a car that like street outlaws wrecks you lose your behind. Just my 25 cents

Hey I have a 360 that we are rebuilding and the things we are selling seems to be what you are looking for. I am hardly ever on the computer so feel free to text me at 765-749-6191. The motor came out of a 74 duster and it ran 11.70s when it was in the car. We are pretty much selling everything but the block and crank. Keith Black pistons, stock rods, TCI Streetfighter 3500 stall convertor, good J heads, holley 750, aluminum intake and others. Feel free to text or call anytime, 765-749-6191. Thanks, Adam Brown.

No it drives fine.
Tranny cooler is a must with higher stall speeds for the street.
Sounds like your on your way
Just keep asking questions, you might get ten differs answers but you'll figure it out.
Good luck!

Here's my answer; Build your engine for torque, not (as much high) rpm.

As I understand your question (and level of experience) in your first post, you want a strong engine/combo that results in a car with good street manors.

In light of that, I don't quite understand all the big cam and high stall advise focused on higher rpm horsepower in this thread, but usually that's exactly the type of engine you don't really want in a street car.
A large cam (in your heavy car) means power brakes suffer because of low vacuum, upgraded valvetrain components are needed, along with high stall convertor and deep rear-axle gears. In general, maintainance and possible component failure rates are up.

I've driven a '67 Newport with solid cammed 440 and 3800 stall convertor in the past and, while ofcourse it's fun having a lopey idle and being able to lay rubber through 1st and 2nd gear, in time it gets a bit old when you always have to rev around 2200rpm just to get along normally with stop-and-go traffic.

A (stroker) engine with pretty much stock driveline parts will provide much more drivabillity and fun an easier way than a wildly cammed 'race'-engine does.

2 cents.