Who cares if it is a "muscle car?" What does that have to do with the price of eggs in Amsterdam?.

Ha exactly

The pre 1961 and earlier Mopars had 8 bolt cranks that had to have studs from the torque converter or flywheels that went through the holes in the crank and had nuts on the block side of the cranks to hold them onto the crank, they didn't have a center locating ring on the back of the cranks either. The 426 Race and Street hemi cranks had the later style crank(and a lot of the race stroker cranks) in them with eight threaded bolt holes in them like the wedges and all the other 1962 and later motors have. The early cranks won't work in the later motor either, due to starter and other problems with the lot longer flange distance from the back of the motor

Hey its muscle enough - put it side by side with a '68 RR and play spot the difference....

Base model one aint much difference in weight to a "B" either - most of the size difference is air

If anything its superior, there is a butt tonne of chassis connecting the upper A-Arms to the rest of the car

No its not technically a muscle car, just think of it as having a whole gym

Yes I own one too... lols

I like your cam choice, the 528, but the gears need to be 3.55 or 3.73 for some compromise in getting this car to move. I run 3.55s on the street with a 27.3 inch tall rear tire, and I go to cruise nights sixty miles away, no problem even on the freeway. On the heads, I would do my best to budget for aluminum heads. The 906 castings have weak points, and having cracked a set with a lot of $$ in them , I don't like to see guys putting money into those castings. By building it right with good quench, .050 or closer on piston to head clearance and lower drag 1/16 rings on a flat top piston, you will make a good amount more torque and you need all you can get with what you want to do here.

Thanks for all the advice

Our '67 VIP run 10.6's naturally aspirated. Sure it had 4.10 gear, but the tires were 32", and the trans was an automatic, 1.8 first gear. The manual will propably be a challenge with the long gear ratio. Other than that, it shouldn't be very hard. Our old '67 III run 13.8/103 with a smog short block (not much CR), slightly cleaned open chamber heads, MP 280 hydraulic cam, 1 3/4" headers, Torker 2 intake, 3310 Holley, stock torque convertere and 3.23 gears.

What the hell is your problem?

Nice do you have any pics of the cars.