Re: 4 speed question
[Re: GKMOPAR]
#1942162
10/31/15 01:41 PM
10/31/15 01:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,733 Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,733
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
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Have not touched it yet since I got it. Not sure of the brand on the clutch. The heavy spring on the pedal is in place. That spring needs to be removed when a diaphragm pressure plate is used. Your next question should be: how do I get the over center spring off without blood being spilled? Answer: with the pedal pushed all the way to the floor, stuff washers (or nickels) between as many of the coils as you can. when you release the pedal it will be long enough to remove easily. However: When you do this and the grabby problem does not go away then the disc may be either contaminated, broken or just too aggressive for street use.
Last edited by GomangoCuda; 10/31/15 01:54 PM.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: GKMOPAR]
#1942241
10/31/15 03:06 PM
10/31/15 03:06 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,232 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,232
Bend,OR USA
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Have a 68 340 4spd in a GTS. The clutch is new and was installed before I got the car. It is the diaphram design. The issue I am having is that it is all or nothing. When I let out the clutch nothing happens until I get the pedal about half way up and it engages all at once. Kind of makes it difficult to drive. The fork looks to be about 12" long. Don't know if it may be the pressure plate or if there is an incorrect component throwing the geometry off. Any idea where to start? Most Mopars need to have the clutch adjusted so it doesn't engage completely down low due to the lack of travel, all the OEM Mopar 4 speed cars I've raced and driven on the street needed the adjustment to start mid pedal travel to end up with the throwout bearing not touching the pressure plate fingers with the pedal all the way out My 1969 Dart GTS 383 4 speed car had a hydraulic clutch with a 143 tooth flywheel with a 11 inch borg and beck clutch in it with a scattershield in it. I decided to buy new replacement clutch linkage and the proper bellhousing and flywheel to put it back to stock so I could use the other parts in another build, I put a Centerforce clutch in it with the same pressure plate as yours, I need to remove the overcenter spring now also. I have to use my foot under the clutch pedel to get it to raise all the way up so the throw out bearing isn't ridng on the presure plate fingers going down the road
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 10/31/15 03:07 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: GKMOPAR]
#1942387
10/31/15 06:37 PM
10/31/15 06:37 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,895 ohio
ruderunner
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,895
ohio
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Spring needed for 3 finger clutches, not for diaphragm type. This isn't GM stuff
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: GKMOPAR]
#1942627
11/01/15 12:38 AM
11/01/15 12:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,189 Park Forest, IL
slantzilla
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,189
Park Forest, IL
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Make sure you get the proper T/O bearing for your pressure plate. Diaphragm and B&B take different length bearings.
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: GKMOPAR]
#1942673
11/01/15 01:54 AM
11/01/15 01:54 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,079 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,079
Niles , Ohio
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If you run a CF dual friction daiphram you will never go 3 finger again.I ran McCleod 3200 pound for years.Then went CF.Its been 15 years and no problems and still bites like new.Im one of the people tha hates change.I ran a dual point up to a few years ago thats how much I dont like change.But the CF was one of the best I made.Oh yeah 7K shifts and never any problems Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1943027
11/01/15 03:07 PM
11/01/15 03:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243 Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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Most Mopars need to have the clutch adjusted so it doesn't engage completely down low due to the lack of travel, all the OEM Mopar 4 speed cars I've raced and driven on the street needed the adjustment to start mid pedal travel to end up with the throwout bearing not touching the pressure plate fingers with the pedal all the way out My 1969 Dart GTS 383 4 speed car had a hydraulic clutch with a 143 tooth flywheel with a 11 inch borg and beck clutch in it with a scattershield in it. I decided to buy new replacement clutch linkage and the proper bellhousing and flywheel to put it back to stock so I could use the other parts in another build, I put a Centerforce clutch in it with the same pressure plate as yours, I need to remove the overcenter spring now also. I have to use my foot under the clutch pedel to get it to raise all the way up so the throw out bearing isn't ridng on the presure plate fingers going down the road Just use a large carb return spring from the dash frame to the pedal (Hardware store, around 3/4" diameter). I always take the over spring out, Mopar or Chevy. I also put a small carb return spring on the linkage from the fork to the bellcrank to stop mishaps while driving.
[image][/image]
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: GKMOPAR]
#1943190
11/01/15 08:22 PM
11/01/15 08:22 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257 gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
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I don't think the problem is in the pressure plate. The all in at once is in the material the disc is made of. It's probably a replacement disc such as Kevlar or Ceramic material type. If you have a daily driver just get a replacement organic disc with a Borg/Beck pressure plate and throw out bearing assembly from the local auto parts store. Going with the aftermarket sets like Centerforce, Zoom, etc. probably will get you another grabby clutch.
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: GKMOPAR]
#1943258
11/01/15 10:14 PM
11/01/15 10:14 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,733 Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,733
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
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I think I am going to drop the transmission due to an antifreeze leak on the back of the block. That could be the cause of your grabby clutch.
Last edited by GomangoCuda; 11/02/15 09:20 AM.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: therocks]
#1943425
11/02/15 01:34 AM
11/02/15 01:34 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,791 Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Magnum
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,791
Hamilton, Ontario Canada
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If you run a CF dual friction daiphram you will never go 3 finger again.I ran McCleod 3200 pound for years.Then went CF.Its been 15 years and no problems and still bites like new.Im one of the people tha hates change.I ran a dual point up to a few years ago thats how much I dont like change.But the CF was one of the best I made.Oh yeah 7K shifts and never any problems Rocky I'm with you on the Centerforce. Had one that you could easily press with your hand, yet it would scratch rubber in 3 gears and tow a truck. I'm all about the resistance to change but explain why do you all want a clutch pedal that is so hard to push it bends Z linkages and bends firewalls. GKMopar, there may be a racing set up in there. If it has no hub springs and ceramic pucks. Those definately act like ON/OFF switches.
69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
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Re: 4 speed question
[Re: Magnum]
#1943767
11/02/15 04:49 PM
11/02/15 04:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,066 Eugene, Oregon
minivan
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,066
Eugene, Oregon
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[quote=therocks]
GKMopar, there may be a racing set up in there. If it has no hub springs and ceramic pucks. Those definately act like ON/OFF switches. This is what I was thinking.. This type of disc was in a car purchased by a friend in "the day".. Race application...
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