I have my dash out for some work and have some questions..

1. Behind the Alternator gauge, there is a red wire that I "think" should have a light in it?? Pushes in with 4 tangs that hold it in the dash.. Pics in FSM, but no wording or explanation of what it does?? IF it is a light, anyone know what # bulb it would be??

2. Should I update all of the dash lites to LED?? Would they just install and work??

3. Any recommendations on grease for speedo cable??

TY for any help here..

That might be an emergency brake warning light. You could change to LEDs but if I remember correctly the stock bulbs were bright enough. I use a light coat of white grease on speedo cables.

TY Stumpy...

Emergency brake light is over the EB pull, WAY down on the lower left side.. The light/wire I am speaking of is on the upper right handside of the dash, behind the Alt gauge

Was thinking about using Sil Glide on the speedo cable. Too thick??

Here are some pics from my FSM.. Arrow points to the hole in one pic..

Yes that socket is to have a bulb and it is for the clock, or the clock blank. That area is separated off from the dash light area so it needs its own bulb. not sure on the number.

I like to use the stock 194 bulbs. While the dash is out wash out the inside of the housing and lense so there is no dust, then the light can reflect out to your eyes. Polish the outside of the clear lenses, the surface scratches detract from the light passing through.

sil-glide will work good on the cable, just use it sparingly. I like a thicker lube like this so it doesn't run down to the bottom of the cable.

I like switching to LED's because now they have very nice ones that are dimmable, but also have 360 degrees of light sweep.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-Ultra-Blue-5...nCn&vxp=mtr

I've used these ones in my AMC's and in my Turbo Mopar. They light up GREAT with no dark spots because of the full sweep of light. And they work with the dimmer so you can easily control the brightness.

Here's a pic of my Daytona's gauge cluster with the new LED's. I can't add a before pic because the regular bulbs were too dim to be captured by a camera properly. The bulbs were terrible. It literally was night and day by going to LED's.

Red wire on '68-'70 was the High Beam Indicator Lamp. Classic Industries catalog has a complete bulb chart. FSM is better- check the wiring diagram and trace it back to the origin. Over the ammeter could be a dummy light for charging system failure.

After speaking with Shannon from Redline ( who restored my dash) he told me to "stick a bulb in it".. I believe nanket is correct lights up the well for my clock area ... Put a 53 in it

Redline recommended a good wheel bearing grease.. No green or red or white litium or graphite empregnated, for the speedo cable ( Redline built the speedo cable for me 8 years ago)

Service manual said 158 for the rest of the dash lites.. Are 194's the same?? Looked the same at the parts store and were "clear blue"?? Were these an LED type??

No need to clean the dash. still looks brand new from Redline..

This project started with the install of a new voltage reducer for the dash.. Gauges have all been reading a tick high. I will update on this after a drive...

At 60, climbing under the dash is a pain.. I do take out the drivers seat....

Should I mention that I've owned the same 67 Coronet since 1989?
That wire is actually orange when Dodge made it, so it could have faded or be some color identifiers going off track. There is no such lamp as an alternator dummy light on this vehicle.

I use red wheel bearing grease in speedo cables and it works great.

do you remove the column then the cluster, or go from underneath.

Minivan, is your car originally GG1 and have an SPD of 927? If so I've seen it many times at the Graham show.

Pulled my car in the pic out of a field in Creswell, Oregon in 90.. It had been in the field for at least 6 years, plates had been expired since 82..
The wire could be orange, kinda dark under there and I suffer from mild color blindness...
My thoughts would be to stay away from the really heavy older style wheel bearing grease that looked like lard.. The newer "softer" grease would work best..
I only moved the dash out a few inches ( as far as it would go without taking more apart), and worked from underneath.. Did not touch the column.. I did remove the ash tray, moved the fuse box after removing the attaching screw.. Those two items made it doable. The next item I was going to remove ( for more room to access under the dash) would have been the drivers vent housing..
I have never been to the Graham show..
Car was originally white with metallic red interior. The red is from a 01 Shelby mustang color. Yeah blasphemy.... but its only a "67" so no harm done......

Who is the old grey haired guy in the outside rear view mirror?

LOL

For whoever is interested GCAR did the dash resto ( redline did the gauges) Doing some calcs here and GCAR's work is appx 13 years old....

they do make a specific speedo cable lube but I think most anything thick would work just use it sparingly as said. What Pynzo said the classic industries catalogue is a must have reference book with its comprehensive pics/info on many subjects. it is pricey ($12.95 iirc) & if you order a Mopar part online then several weeks later their Mopar specific catalogue will show up in your mailbox unannounced for free & they have ALOT of interesting items.

OK different car. If you pull the cluster from the dash it will hit on the top of the column and damage the plastic cluster bezel.

NANKET is correct. The FSM page 8-115 shows a Orange wire as an "Instrument Lamp" for the clock, or clock blank if not installed.

TY for the confirm... Installed a #53 bulb in it..

Thought I would update this repair..

This repair started out as a possible voltage reducer problem as my gauges were all swinging over a couple of needle widths to the right.. On a separate post is was determined that the wrong voltage was creating this.. The hi beam indicator light was burned out also...

After installing a new dash voltage reducer, removing all of the screws from the front ( and sliding the dash ( gauges ) out a few inches for access, installing the new #53 bulb in the above questioned area, installing new bulbs in the turn signals, oil pressure light, and the high beam light, all I can say is WOW what a difference.. All of the dash lites are brighter, I can see the turn signal indicators flash now, and the gauges work perfectly..

Yes, could possibly be a better ground ( from removing/installing attaching screws).

I hate it when there is no "finality " to the posts on here, but I really like it when a project turns out just right..

Hope this helps others as others posts have certainly helped me...

You sound pumped!

158 Bulb; 14V, 0.24 amp, 3.36W
194 Bulb; 14V, 0.27 amp, 3.78W

Both bulbs are very similar, the 194 is slighty briter. Also the 194 was used in other applications and available in various tints. Since U have the dash apart, change all of the bulbs it can save U time/frustration later. Also on the back of the dash, note the alumnum cast frame that the circuit board is attached to. The circuit board is fastened by multiple, small self tapping screws, snug these down for a good consistent ground connection.

Just my $0.02....

good info above

i am doing some work on a dash/cluster to put into my 67 coronet
had to do the modern voltage regulator mod to get the 5v for the gauges...

for the blinker bulbs, the green plastic is missing.

any ideas on how to get something in there? colored clear tape? repro plastic for the blinker slots???

Try a hobby store for colored opaque plastic, cut to fit the openings. Originally the lenses have writing on the lenses to tell you what the light means: right, left, hi beam, and oil. just getting some color in there is key. Oil and hi beam are both red, turn indicators green. The rectangle slots they go in have angled corners to make it hard to put the wrong lens in the slot, they were always thinking.