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1962 D-200
#1919438
09/25/15 01:36 PM
09/25/15 01:36 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
ridin98ci
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
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Well I finally got the 62 home (225 slant six, 4speed)....the tires are TRASH!!! 17.5 inch wheel....I have NO idea where to get affordable tires for the thing....the only thing I can find are $300-$400 trailer tires...also I am in DIRE need of a carb....this thing just POURS gas out....any idea where to get a good deal on a single throat carb for a 225?
LOUD AND PROUD!!!
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Re: 1962 D-200
[Re: ridin98ci]
#1919483
09/25/15 02:22 PM
09/25/15 02:22 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
ridin98ci
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
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I have done the tapping trick....Ive tried rebuilding carbs and I have NEVER had any luck....its pouring out every gasket....garbage
LOUD AND PROUD!!!
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Re: 1962 D-200
[Re: ridin98ci]
#1919494
09/25/15 02:46 PM
09/25/15 02:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
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http://ricksontruckwheels.com/tires-175-truck.phpThese are all truck tires, not trailer. Tire Rack has the Yokos for about $1400 a set. I'd be thinking about switching to 17s or 18s. A 10.5 wide tire fits under the front, and an 11.5" wide tire fits under the back. Both if you have the right back spacing. R.
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Re: 1962 D-200
[Re: mopargreg]
#1919919
09/26/15 03:24 AM
09/26/15 03:24 AM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
ridin98ci
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
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VEE EIGHT TIME.....OH YEAH come get it....I have to many irons in the fire to do that....I just wanna get it running and driving good....enjoy it a little and then pass it on to some one else
LOUD AND PROUD!!!
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Re: 1962 D-200
[Re: rickstershemi]
#1920360
09/27/15 12:23 AM
09/27/15 12:23 AM
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 7
Bellingham,WA
Dad's '74 D100
member
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member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 7
Bellingham,WA
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Yes, gas would come out of every gasket as well as the lower throttle shaft with a sunk float or dirt in the needle & seat or damaged needle tip. I didn't say a stuck float but a float that has sprung a leak and filled with fuel if brass or become saturated with fuel and again become heavy and never shuts out the flow of fuel because the needle and seat remain open.A sunk float Think of a toilet tank float stuck in a down position and the water continues running. Same toilet but the chain gets stuck under the flapper in the bottom and you end up with a running water. That is the same principal and function of the needle and seat in a carb.If there is trash in the seat it will never get flushed through normal running. I've done this many,many times and it is quick. Run the carb dry by cutting off the fuel supply.After reconnecting the incoming rush of fuel will flush the trash into the fuel bowl. The rig in my avatar log over a 100,000 miles going border to border / coast to coast and have done this trick along the roadside for other rodders. I learned to carry a filtering funnel on our cross country treks.These are the only 2 reasons that will cause the symptoms the op described.
As Stumpy says this thing only has a few parts and is an easy build. I'm new here and don't mean to bump shoulders with anyone but I'm not new to the craft. I would gladly offer to rebuild the op's carb with a provided kit / postage and I'll stand behind it. I don't expect him to but it is a sincere offer. If he$$ bent on spending money why not support a local shop to do a rebuild on your,most likely, original carb.
Last edited by Dad's '74 D100; 09/27/15 02:38 PM.
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Re: 1962 D-200
[Re: Dad's '74 D100]
#1920836
09/27/15 09:14 PM
09/27/15 09:14 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 9,366
Lehigh Acres, Florida
rickstershemi
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 9,366
Lehigh Acres, Florida
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Yes, gas would come out of every gasket as well as the lower throttle shaft with a sunk float or dirt in the needle & seat or damaged needle tip. I didn't say a stuck float but a float that has sprung a leak and filled with fuel if brass or become saturated with fuel and again become heavy and never shuts out the flow of fuel because the needle and seat remain open.A sunk float Think of a toilet tank float stuck in a down position and the water continues running. Same toilet but the chain gets stuck under the flapper in the bottom and you end up with a running water. That is the same principal and function of the needle and seat in a carb.If there is trash in the seat it will never get flushed through normal running. I've done this many,many times and it is quick. Run the carb dry by cutting off the fuel supply.After reconnecting the incoming rush of fuel will flush the trash into the fuel bowl. The rig in my avatar log over a 100,000 miles going border to border / coast to coast and have done this trick along the roadside for other rodders. I learned to carry a filtering funnel on our cross country treks.These are the only 2 reasons that will cause the symptoms the op described.
As Stumpy says this thing only has a few parts and is an easy build. I'm new here and don't mean to bump shoulders with anyone but I'm not new to the craft. I would gladly offer to rebuild the op's carb with a provided kit / postage and I'll stand behind it. I don't expect him to but it is a sincere offer. If he$$ bent on spending money why not support a local shop to do a rebuild on your,most likely, original carb. I'll just leave it to the experts.....I guess owning a carb and fuel injection rebuild company for 10+ years doesn't carry much weight...LOL Rickster
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Re: 1962 D-200
[Re: Rhinodart]
#1921036
09/28/15 05:08 AM
09/28/15 05:08 AM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
ridin98ci
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
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6 bolt or 8 bolt wheels?  My 62 W200 had 8 bolt wheels but all my D300's have 6 bolt wheels.  8 lug.....I wanna find something that looks stock-ish....bling wont look right on the truck. Also for the carb fight....I got a carb off a 61 Dart with a slant six....I even rebuilt it.....the old one was JUNK....no saving it.....so onto other issues....she is running great now....I have an issue with the hydraulic clutch....push the pedal in and it doesn't want to come back up by its self.....any advice?
LOUD AND PROUD!!!
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Re: 1962 D-200
[Re: ridin98ci]
#1921044
09/28/15 08:00 AM
09/28/15 08:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,555
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,555
Freeport IL USA
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If you have 8 bolt wheels, any of the older, factory style 8 bolt 16 1/2" or 16" (or the old 15" 8 bolts that are very hard to find) wheels off a Dodge truck will bolt on, and with a decent size tire will look right.
I think, with the clutch pedal, I would take a look under the dash and make sure the pedal itself isn't dragging against anything. Wouldn't hurt to check the linkage at the bell housing either. Most of that old stuff had grease zerks everywhere, if the greased parts haven't been moved for a while, the grease could have gotten pretty stiff and hard. A good cleaning & re-greasing might do wonders. (I think I would check all the greased things on the truck, a couple pumps of fresh grease might make a lot of things work better/more smoothly).
Past the hard grease or binding pedal, the next likely shot is the clutch cylinder rebuild or replacement. Gene
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Re: 1962 D-200
[Re: ridin98ci]
#1921198
09/28/15 02:30 PM
09/28/15 02:30 PM
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 7
Bellingham,WA
Dad's '74 D100
member
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member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 7
Bellingham,WA
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Glad to hear you got it running well but I didn't think we were fighting just a little friendly disagreement. Now if you want to see a fight wait until I figure out how to post photos of our project '74 D100 Custom shortbed stepside that we are getting ready to drop in a chevy 427 w/M22 4spd.  On the hyd. clutch check the slave cylinder and from inside the passenger compartment check the firewall for seepage trails from the master cyl. Now before a lynch mob is formed that was a joke.There will be no cross breeding to the D100, not that there's anything wrong with that.
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