not harder, just different

There's a member on the truck forum asking about Gen III builds:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1869917

Thought I'd link it so some of the more knowledgeable guys could comment in case they didn't see it

Couldn't find the other post on the Nag1 trans so I'll put it here. The output yoke is for a fixed driveshaft (no up and down). Found a simple solution, a 2006 Dodge Sprinter has a different yoke(four finger instead of three) that allows a u-joint type driveshaft to be attached. Replace the yoke (bolts on)and use a junk yard drive shaft. There is electronics now for this trans(five speed) and they are plentiful in salvage yards for about 500 apiece and they fit with no cutting. I think this is the same trans MB puts in the 500 hp AMGs.

That bit of info is very interesting. Where do you find the electronic portion for the swap?

Go back into early post of the guy who put a Gen111 in a 70 RR (he had a big write up on body stiffing also), he found some one to make up the control. I have it bookmarked so I'll go find it.

Guys name is Darius on for b body's only. Body stiffing

I was told not to do it. I insisted.

4 of 8 piston oilers broke off. 4.08 stroke

Too much stroke in relation to the oilers?

Idk, plenty of clearance. I really dont know

Darius has been struggling to get his car driving right, he is in the same car club as me. To my knowledge he is not running the NAG1 as a stand alone....

The NAG1 is the same as the mercedes transmission that they use in a bunch of different chassis with a different id - I think it's called a 722.6 or something like that.

Hi all - a while back I promised that Id do a genuine comparison between the Modman 6.1
intake and the Edekbrock 5.7 dual quad dual plane.

I experienced significant tuning issues with the Modman running both single and dual carbs - (333 RWHP) and it only really worked half way decent when I installed a full height divider (346 RWHP)

Below is the dyno chart ( same dyno..similar atmospherics) showing three (3) runs

The BLUE line was the Modman with divider - this netted a 11.9@ 114mph

The MIDDLE RED is the EDDY - same carbs - 360 rwhp

The Upper RED is the Eddy with twin 1" 4 hole spacers. - 368RWHP

A bit more tuning yielded 376 RWHP

The Eddy had a home port match to the 6.1 heads.

The headers were shorty hot rod headers - complete junk.

I think this proves conclusively that the Modman is a JUNK NA intake.

My guess is that the carbs are losing about 15 rwhp to the EFI....

Drivtrain losses ~ 90hp verified by mph/ weight at the track

A 545rfe is your best choice. I picked mine up for $400 with 29 k miles. It is controlled by the engine computer so you only have one module the nag uses a variety of sensors all over the car. Hotwireauto.com told me to use the 545 cause it was simpler and cheaper than doing a nag trans a gear vendor od will run about $3000

Are yo sure they fit with no cutting? The link to the only well documented install I have seen is below. As you go through the pages you will see they end up cutting the tunnel and the crossmember.

http://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/showthread.php?7651-Ma-s-cuda-A-long-time-coming/page4

Look up Darius, that's his post name, he can tell you everything you need to know. Did all this to a 70 RR. He has a great post on b-body's only.

Thanks for sharing this build, but it looks like the cutting of crossmember and tunnel starts on page 3.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?1121-B-Body-stiffening/page3

With the smaller yoke I showed I think you might get away without cutting anything other than the 4 bolt mount crossmember to fab the mount to the trans.

I have a Nag 1 on the garage floor and the trans is out of my car, which is a 4 speed car. I may try to slide it up there this weekend if I get time to see if it fits but I am fearful it won't without cutting the tunnel, assuming you want a factory driveline angle.

From looking at my trans it might get close where the trans rolls down to output flange. I would check mine but I'm still welding up front frames, sub frame connectors, floors and firewall, all in jigs.

Roughly what is the cost to build one of these engines for drag race use? From low to high cost.

I traded a 19 yr old BB for my 6.1 core and probably put another 7K in it with EFI and all.
Headers: 800
Pan and pickup: 500
4.05 stroke rotator: 2300
cam used: 200
timing set: 90
lifters used: 100
Manley pushrods: 120
Manley springs: 350
Head work: 1400
Oil pump: 150
ATI balancer blem: 200
EFI setup: 1700
gaskets: 200

Thanks! I'm thinking about doing a build out there in the future for something different. Maybe by the time I'm ready the 6.4 will be an easy buy. That's unless some other deal comes up. Never know.