Apparently I wasn't careful enough when inserting my axles after replacing the u-joints. My passenger side is leaking. I've done a little internet research, but I'm not positive about what it takes to R&R the center chunk. Should I leave this one for a pro? It's a DANA 44...

You could continue to use the truck while periodically checking that the level doesn't get too low in that diff. Those seals should have a little ramp built in to them so the axle can slide back into place w/out great destruction.

I didn't specify, but the part I'm worried about is making sure I don't screw up the backlash (not sure if that's the correct term). This short "how to" link makes it look simple. http://d44tech.com/axle_seals.html My truck has been known to go through shallow creeks during hunting season, so I definitely want to change them (both, while I'm in there). I reckon I'll give it a shot...unless someone here talks me out of it.

I've only changed them on the front of a 97 2500 cummins ram, and I believe the carrier had shims on each side so they went back in where they came from and all was well in that case. Kind of a big job with hub-axles removal and all...

Yeah, I know (sigh). I just went through the whole axle removal a couple weeks ago to replace the u-joints. At least that part of the process is fresh in my mind. As for the rest of it (removing the center), I know absolutely nothing about setting up gears, so the thought of screwing that up strikes fear in me. I continue to read, and nothing I've found so far makes me believe that'll happen. I'm gonna do it, but it'll be be a few days before I get into it. I'll just add oil 'til then. Thanks for your help!

Put two teaspoons of brake fluid into your diff. It'll cause the seals to swell and can buy you a lot of time, unless the seal is completely shot. I've done this on an 8 3/4 rear that was leaking pretty bad, and it cleared it right up for a couple of years.

This trick courtesy or Richard Ehrenburg, Mopar Action magazine.

R.

are you planning on changing the bearings as well? if you aren't you should be able to pop the carrier out, change the seal and put everything back in with no changes to how it's setup.

Dog, will the brake fluid trick adversely affect my pinion seal over time? I don't plan on waiting very long before I change the axle seals.

Thanks for the confirmation, Rednuck. I'm gonna dig into it in the near future.

I just read passenger side, I do believe on the CAD axles you don't even need to remove the carrier for that axle seal. BUT it's a giant PAIN to get it in there because its actually in the axle tube

I read that somewhere along the way also...allthread, washers, slide hammer thing. Aside from not wanting to do it that way, I JUST got out from under it to top it off, and noticed the driver's side is also wet. Not nearly as bad as the passenger side, but it's leaking. So...

Fat_Mike:

I've had to do this miserable job on this Horses' Ass setup twice on the passenger side. The best advice I can give you, is to pay extra for the seal at a Chrysler Dealer and ask them to loan you the installer tool.

The first time I did it I built my own tool by welding the old seal to a nut, threading it on ready-rod and it didn't work. You need their tool because it centers everything and pulls the seal in straight. It's a blind pull so everything has to line up perfect and ready-rod with big washers and nuts won't do it. I took photos last time of their puller and I have a die from a ball-joint installer kit that fits their seal perfect. I will try to build another but this time will spend a day doing it.

The seals leaking isn't your fault from doing the u-joints, Mike. There is a trick to re-installing your axles, pm me. If you let the u-joints go too long they vibrate/have too much play and beat the seal up. Then the leak starts. Of course, it doesn't show up until after you get everything back together, happened to me too.

I feel your pain: These straight-axle front-ends in these trucks is the worst design I have ever seen in my life. Made to fail, and made to anger the do-it-yourselfer to all ends. What kind of an IDIOT Engineer positions an axle seal six inches inside the tube and makes it so you can't see what you're doing? The kind that has a supervisor telling them to make it so the Customer has to take it to the dealer to do, that's who. I have a solution to fix the whole mess but it's more work than it's worth.

Let us know how you make out on the driver-side: I haven't had to do it...........yet.

Sorry for the rant, I'm just trying to get a riot going for all the Jeep and HD Owners who continue to have to deal with this mess.

*Edit* I have the service manual as a pdf if you need, let me know.

Thank you, Grizzly. I will take your advice and get the Mopar seals. Also, I'll send you a PM with my email address to send that service manual, if you don't mind. It'll be priceless to have on-hand if I get into a pinch.

Should be there, let me know if it doesn't go through.

Quad 4x4 has tools and parts available to do this job.Worth buying if you own the truck!The factory seals have a metal lead-in ramp to guide the axle shaft in,some aftermarket do not. RT

Link: http://www.quad4x4.com/Dodge1500Dana44front1994-2001.html#Tools

I'm slightly ashamed to admit that I've been procrastinating for this long. As it turns out, I have a gear head friend that recently lost his job, so I'm gonna have him do it. I'll help where I won't be in the way, and probably learn a thing or two.