My car is stock/original down to everything but the wear items. The engine compartment looks factory stock, although it is not a show car.

I have had to redo my radiator about every 2-3 years. (Please forgive my lack of tech expertise). I have had to have it re-cored or tank repaired on this schedule. My understanding is that last time this was done everything was new, they just reused the rad supports and the top which has the part number, etc.

That cost $475 and only lasted 2+ years.

I really don't want to put in some huge aluminum radiator in an otherwise original engine compartment. Also I am not really in a position to spend $1000 on something either.

Any ideas? Any ideas why it leaks so soon after repair? I have used 3 different shops who otherwise have a good reputation.

Thanks!
Mark

What anti freeze are you using?

That is insane, my 65 Cuda still has it original untouched radiator.

I bet you have electrical flow thru the radiator, what do your grounds look like? Engine to body, engine to battery, battery to body?

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/6413706/site_id/1

Assuming you have no electrical issues, and are running antifreeze at 50.50 ratio w water there's no reason this should be happening. Where is the radiator leaking? Many times they just need to be resoldered if the original job was subpar.

I'm thinking poor fitment/workmanship in all three cases

The Go To Guy!
http://www.restorationradiators.com/about.htm

Does the price include installation?

Are you traveling to Chicago for a radiator repair? Or are you kidding?

Check your current system for electrolysis.

Should be less than .3 volt or 300 mV.

70blackfish went through this with two aluminum radiators in 6 months.

70blackfish already checked and added grounds from the radiator, motor, and every other component in his truck.

In your case you may have a bad ground or need to add grounds.

70blackfish cured his situation when he ran some Justice Brothers Radiator Cleaner (RC/3p)though the system. Then ran reverse osmosis water with Justice Brother Super Radiator Cooler (RC/22p).

He'd previously used Water Wetter with his other failed radiators. IMHO, the Radiator Cleaner chemical helped him a lot in his ordeal.

He lives in So Cal so freezing isn't an issue. But same results can be had with 50/50 antifreeze in place of the reverse osmosis water.

Check you electrolysis with a digital voltmeter. Put ground to battery and dangle the positive side in the liquid in the radiator without touching any part of the radiator itself.

The reading below is 76.8 mV or .0768 volts.

For the price, I assume a round trip ticket is included to install the thing.

Once again- are you kidding?
Are you unable to turn your own wrench? Or do you need to have your Butler bring your Turbines To Speed? (Nerdy Batman reference).

Thanks for all the good things to look into. I never thought about the electrical ground issues. The car shows no other signs of electrical problems.

Not sure where the traveling to Chicago theme came from. I usually pull the radiator myself and take to the shop. Although last time I did pay my longtime mechanic to do it just in case I was screwing up. He did use a high percentage antifreeze last time. Before I was following the 50/50 distilled water and prestone formula.

Glenray is great, but a little out of my price range right now.

Thanks for all the input!

Mark

Have one of the local implement or equipment dealers do a chemical analysis on your anti-freeze. I'm going to guess you have a bad head gasket or a cracked head or something allowing combustion gas into the anti-freeze and the anti-freeze pH is very low. I had the same thing happen to me on a 360 and it turned out to be a crack behind one exhaust seat that had been installed.

The electrolysis test doesn't really cost anything.


If it's a leaky head gasket or crack somewhere the excessive pressure would be stressing a solder joint. But I would think you see the radiator cap overflow spitting out a lot of coolant.

But I guess a slow leak could mess with the coolant pH. Seems very odd you'd have a slow leak/crack go on for what sounds like 6-7 years? I'd certainly look at the electrolysis first. Check it cold and again warm.



If it comes to it, you can do the block test yourself with this test kit:

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1108-blown-head-gasket-diagnostic/

$25.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27...kyBMaAj418P8HAQ

Napa $42.99: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7001006_0361073538

If your issue is electrolysis, that can be tricky. It's usually caused by an external electrical leak (stray voltage) so grounding is very important. I read an article that mentioned measuring the current using a volt meter with the cars electrical components on and off. This can lead you to a poorly wired or defective electrical component. They said the starter was a major culprit because of the high current needed by the starter motor.
However, electrolysis can occur without an external electrical source (called "chemical imbalance"). It is most common with aluminum radiators and iron blocks.
"Dissimilar metals and alloys have different electrode potentials, and when two or more come into contact in an electrolyte (An electrolyte is a substance that ionizes when dissolved in suitable ionizing solvents such as water), one metal acts as anode and the other as cathode. The electro-potential difference between the dissimilar metals is the driving force for an accelerated attack on the anode member of the galvanic couple. The anode metal dissolves into the electrolyte, and deposit collects on the cathodic metal."
There is a line of radiator caps that have an attached "magnesium sacrificial anode" and chemical electrolysis inhibitors on the market but I've never used them so I can't speak to their efficiency.

I believe this is what happened to 70blackfish. His car would build voltage as it got up to operating temperature. He could turn the car off and it would still have too much voltage. Then he would disconnect the battery and STILL have voltage.

He ran a sacrificial anode. Didn't do a darn thing for the two radiators that got holes ate through them. IIRC, he had voltages over 600 mV (.6 volts).

He ran the Justice Brothers Radiator Cleaner and then the Justice Brothers Radiator Cooler that has chemical electrolysis inhibitors (metal deviators). Then we added an additional bottle of Justice Brothers Cooling System Protectant (CSP/1p) just for overkill and to be extra safe because he was having so much trouble.

I believe he had something built up on the walls or stuck in the cooling system that was causing the electrolysis start up even though he was changing the fluid and changing it with his radiator swaps. And the chemical radiator cleaner helped with the additives.