Just starting my 71 runner to get ready for the big show this weekend and I'm having a problem. For the ignition switch I have 12v on the blue wire on ignition one, zero on brown. On ignition two when I turn the key I have zero on blue and 12v on brown. Is this correct?

Sounds right. What is the problem you are having?

Yes, that is correct. The blue wire is your power wire to the coil in the "run" position. The brown wire sends power to the coil in the "start/crank" position and bypasses the ballast. This gives you full power to the coil for start-up.

My money is on another ballast resistor issue.

feets has my vote too

OP hasn't explained the problem if there is one.

No, if the ballast has continuity You will have some voltage at either end of the ballast wheather the current is entering from the upstream (ign1 blue wire "run" end or the downstream (ign2/brown wire/"cranking" end. If open (ballast) it'll wanna start but die when you let off the key. What is going on/more info please

Sorry guys, I pulled the tape off the harness under the dash, tested the ignition switch, which is good. I found the problem, the new m&h harnesses has a pigtail for charger hideaway headlights (2 blue wires with white stripe) they told me to cut it as I didnt need it and tape it up. Well wouldn't you know its the same wire from the ignition switch, cutting that wire cut the circuit.

Car starts!!!!

New problem.

Its the mopar orange box, all brand new wiring

Car doesnt shut off when the key turns off. any thoughts?

Bump! What should I see on blue/ brown wires? I have to kill the battery disconnect to turn motor off

I would disconnect the blue wire with the white stripe and start fresh. Brown wire in start position should be full battery voltage. Blue wire in run should be lower about 9v. Make sure the power at the coil is in these areas. If not then check the ballast resistor. Where is the M&H wiring harness installed? Under dash or under hood? Ignition switch gets it's power from the amp gauge out wire.

I deleted the ammeter, the black has its own 12v, and the red wire is now used as a trigger for the solenoid for the starter, and the starter relay has its own 12v. The entire car has new m&h harnesses.

Back to basics. How much voltage do you have at the coil + in start and run ignition positions with the blue with a white stripe wire disconnected? With the key off you should have no power to either the blue or brown wires from the ignition switch.

No key, blue 10.5v, brown 5v, coil+ 5v,
with blue disconnected, 0v on brown and at the coil +,

Key in ign one position and blue disconnected, 5v on brown at ballast and starter

Blue always has power. Would that be ignition switch?

What Stump said: Only the ign1 blue wire (run) wire should be powering the coil (to/thru the ballast to the coil) and T ing over to the ECU power wire (blue/yellow) with the ign key "on". when you turn the key off this blue wire circuit goes dead & so does the coil/ECU & it (the eng) shuts off. Sumpin ain't wired right still. EDIT to clarify, weather you are on blue (run) or brown (crank) the one system you are on is going to back feed to the other (blue to brown or brown to blue) all the way back to the ign switch but when the key is off both ign1 and ign2 terminals at the ign SWITCH are dead

Add to the confusion, I pulled the ignition switch off, put my tester on the harness from the bulkhead to the ignition switch I have 10.5v on blue, 5 on brown and 12v on battery.

I thought blue and brown get power from the ignition switch? ?! I gotta strip more harness tape. I bought a $400 ****ing harness to avoid this bs

yes they do (blue ign1 run/brown ign2 crank)

Some how you are bypassing the ignition switch.

Ya!!! Problem solved I have a aftermarket toyota denso alternator. The problem is this thing. What is the proper way of hooking this alternator up?

Big wire goes to starter relay. What do the red, green, blue wires for the plugin harness go to?