500" stroker still on engine stand. Very tall filled stock block .060" overbore. Indy -1 heads. What is the best way to cool this thing for drag racing. Aluminum housing and mechanical pump, aluminum housing and electric pump, full electric pump & housing, reverse flow kit from Indy with an in-line electric pump? Since block is filled, thinking also that putting an oil cooler might help a lot.

I have gotten by with a mezerie pump and a northern alum rad. I did a little street driving back in the day. It was fine at night

For a new build I highly recommend using a remote water pump. You can mount the pump down low in the chassis near the radiator and then run a couple of hoses up to the engine. This frees up some space on the front of the engine. It also gets the electric pump off of the engine and away from the heat and vibration. Meziere sells radiators that will accept a remote pump directly. That is probably the ultimate setup since then you bolt the pump right to the radiator and get rid of the lower hose. On the engine you'll need a pair of adapter blocks so you can attach the AN fittings to the water jackets.

Wow. That looks sweet. Are they available on your website? Is there a Y or Tee block before the pump or do you have a crossover tube?

Take a look at the Meziere website and you'll see how they set them up. Typically the pump has two AN outlets so then you run two lines to the engine.

On the hot side you can run two return lines to the radiator or Y them together. I think the best setup is to buy a radiator that has two AN bungs on it so you can run two hoses but some people prefer to Y them into a traditional radiator hose.

One other benefit of the remote setup is that if you want to try reverse cooling then you just swap the position of the hoses and you have reverse cooling. Put the inlet hoses on the top fittings so the hot water exits out of the block rather than the heads.

Andy, do You have a hardware/pulley(s) combo that will work for an alternator, crank trigger and vacuum pump mandrel? That is the direction I want to go with my new motor but I concerned as to the three pulleys necessary (one each?) and the overall depth of the combo to bump into the radiator cooling fan.

Here is a setup that we ran for awhile on one engine. It worked okay but was a bit of a pain to put together. I recommend the newer design with two input and two exit lines.

I use a spline drive setup from Peterson. You can stack v groove and Gilmer pulleys as many as you need. To make it easier on your self you should get the ATI damper with the Chevy bolt pattern. There are a lot more choices for Chevy mandrels than Mopar ones. I also use the Chevy trigger wheel.

Ive ran a 1/2 fill 496 with Performer heads, Meziere pump in alum housing and a Be Cool radiator for 9 yrs, no problems. Also ran it with mech pump, no problems. Car ran 9.8s at 3600 lbs. Drove it to the track and back home too.

Andy, Thank You. I'll start looking into your recommendations.

My junk has been this way for over 20 years. An electric pump is needed so you can circulate the coolant without running the engine. Combined with an electric fan you can cool down quite quickly if needed. You can't be consistent if you can't go the staging lanes with consistent temperatures. I use a Jabsco Centri-Puppy (centrifugal!) pump from a local marine store, brass nipples, 3/4" heater hose, etc. Just plumb it up. Thermostatic control can be used to cool down to a chosen temp unattended, very handy. I have the CSR coolant thermometer with thermostatic output, enabled with a switch.

Kenny...depends on how much you want to spend. You def. need an electric pump.
I use a Meziere electric pump (45 gpm) in a stock housing and it works great. They make a big 55 gpm pump, but it's over $500.
I have a big Griffin radiator, but you don't need one this big since you don't street drive. One of the cheap aluminum radiators from the classifieds here is what I'd use.

From what I've heard, the Indy reverse cooling plate isn't worth it.