Yes!!! I agree!!!!!

Been there, done that. If you don't want to open up a huge can of worms I would stick with a 440 ci. I built a monster 505 ci and have been upgrading driveline parts ever since.

im gonna be using my six pack setup off my old motor so there's no chance I'll ever be playin with the nitrous. The car already has the Strange S-60 Dana with Spicer 4:10s from Cass (Dr. Diff)as well as their driveshaft with the Chevy u-joints. The 4 speed is tough enough on it's own, so what is there to break with a 505?

sorry guys: many times I just assume that people knew my last combo and how great it ran for how simple it was, and i was breakin crap all the time, hence the upgrades....

Yes,
my 727 was not up for the task of over 650 ft lbs of torque so I pulled it this fall and upgraded several parts within the trans. I also replaces my 10 year old U joints.

Having a significant amount more torque unveiled the shortcomings of old stock parts.

thanks for all the advice, my head is now spinning nut I will buy a kit Monday

I agree since he is running a stick shift. But I will say that my 63 was running mid 11's with my old 440 and now has run 10.70's and since its an auto car I have not broke any drivetrain parts since I put the 493 in the car in June 2011. Course I dont race every weekend as I only race about twice a year. Its mostly a street driven car that I cruise around in taking it easy most of the time. I am using an 8-3/4 but I want to change to a Dana when I can afford too. My driveshaft uses the bigger U-joints and I bought it from Mancini as I believe the company that made it was called "Victory". Ron

so even if i already have the upgraded S-60 and driveshaft with the 1350 joints you would stay 440?

my thought was to buy the 505 kit from say 440 source, use my 906 arrowheads that have been in a box for 10plus years. use the racer brown cam i mentioned above. and be good to go?

Weak parts and traction break parts, not HP I did learn that on racing a 4 speed car that you must feed the driveline devil, you can feed it tires, clutches,gears, tranny parts, U joints or you pick the part you want to fail or replace often
AKA, it won't break parts when it is spinning the tires at the command of your right foot Been there done that with my last pump gas street car that ran low tens and high nines in the 1/4 mile

I sent this email to Mancini as well as 440S and Mark Z. If anyone has an opinion, I welcome it! (that's why we're here,right?)


I need a rotating assembly, Car is a 3840 lb b-body 4-speed with an Strange S-60 4.10 gears (spicer) also upgraded driveshaft with HD 1350 joints. Lost my forged crank in a 383 zero decked block,78cc iron heads and TRW domed 12.5-1 pistons. intake side was milled to match the six pack intake.

I now have a 70's 440 block line bored, torque plate honed 0.30 and need a rotating assembly. planning on using arrowhead reconditioned heads (2.14 and 1.81) been in the box for 12 years now. I have a Racer Brown cam #STH-42 Hydraulic 5.20 lift (intake/exhaust) and 254 duration at 0.50" lobe separation intake 105 exhaust 111 separation 108.00 advanced 3.0

I'm going to use the six pack setup again (need an RB Edelbrock 6-pack intake) as well as this Racer brown Cam/lifter that I already have.
I need a recommendation as to which stroker kit you would use (MRE440493F84-6B3d) or a 512 kit, or other?

I will also need windage tray,oil pump/oil pan/oil pickup (3/8 or 1/2?),HD timing chain(double roller or true roller?)/chain cover, water pump housing and water pump, and distributor (Mallory Unilite is what I had in the 383)

Goals: I'm looking to build the biggest short block I can afford to enjoy now. The only thing I may add later are budget aluminum heads...


Thanks,
John
513-312-2038

thoughts anyone?

4.250 stroke crank with 2.200 BB Chevy rod journal sizes, 7.100 long BB Chevy H beam forged steel rod, shelf piston with either a reverse dome or a dish that will give you between 10.0 to 1 to 10.7 to1 compression ratio with the aluminum heads you buy or lower the compression ratio to no more than 9.5 to 1 with your iron heads True roller timing set and degee the cam you select Six paks rock My last 400 block 518 C.I. stroker six pak motor made 720 HP with 712 Ft lbs on Oregon 91 octane pump swill That baby put many smiles on my face as well as made the old phincter pucker more than once on the street

yes

your head choice .... sounds like you wantto build a 500 inch shortblock and you couldn't have chosen a worse head to run ...

oh wait , you aren't using junkyard fresh 516's ...

And why are we putting Chevy garbage in a Mopar engine?

440source.com has a lot to offer and knowledge.

Because I've been building and racing Mopars a lot longer than Brandon has been selling his kits I've sold Brandon parts long before he opended his business I'm really glad that he did open and continues to operate 440 Source We Mopar racers need all the help we can get Now as far as "chevy" parts I don't buy anything from GM to use in any of my Mopar motors, it is all race parts design to fit into Chevy motors also, at a lot better price Using a smaller rod journal sizes reduces the rod weight and bearing speed and doesn't dangerously harm the strength of the forged steel crankshafts or rods Selecting the best parts available to use when desiging racing motors combination with the best parts availble is the smartest thing to do when racing, correct

when extra money permits..... i will upgrade to aluminum heads, i realize iron heads are a thing of the past. I want to build the biggest short block I can afford now, and look forward to "weekend upgrades" later!

And why are we putting Chevy garbage in a Mopar engine?

440source.com has a lot to offer and knowledge.

Yes, 440 Source has a great website, where's the offers and knowledge??? No telephone or email replies. not trying to be rude but they have not responded to my email or telephone message.

4.250 stroke crank with 2.200 BB Chevy rod journal sizes, 7.100 long BB Chevy H beam forged steel rod, shelf piston with either a reverse dome or a dish that will give you between 10.0 to 1 to 10.7 to1 compression ratio with the aluminum heads you buy or lower the compression ratio to no more than 9.5 to 1 with your iron heads.


who offers this crank selection?

Ohio Crankshaft CO, Molnar, Scat and several other crank companys or importers names that are not popping up in my head right now The last three 4.250 and 4.300 stroke cranks that I used in my latest stroker builds where originally 4.150 forge steel imported stroker cranks with BB Mopar rod journal sizes that I bought on the cheap and I had them offset ground down to 2.200 and offset ground to 4.250 and 4.300 stroke here locally by a good machine shop
Lots of different ways to accomplish your goals
I've also bought old top fuel cranks with 4.500 stroke with the stock Mopar rod journal sizes and had them ground down and offset destroked to 4.375 Lots of choices out there

Hmmm. Not sure where to start w this comment....