Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
#1845734
06/10/15 01:56 PM
06/10/15 01:56 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 290 Dayton, WA
wesgtx440
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OP
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Dayton, WA
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I am in the process of upgrading my 68 charger as per the MAD electric amp gauge bypass diagrams. I am going to install a 100 amp 1 wire alternator and perform the amp gauge bypass as well as run a larger charge wire from the alternator to the starter relay. My question is regarding the use of fusible links or is it better to install actual fuse holders in line? and what amp rating fuse or fusible link should be installed? Dash side wiring will be all stock with no additional draws on the system.
68 Charger R/T 440 auto
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Re: Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
[Re: Pynzo]
#1846255
06/10/15 10:41 PM
06/10/15 10:41 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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What Pynzo said, I believe they want 4 numbers (2 sizes) larger (which as you know is smaller gauge) as they only go up or down in even numbers so a 12 GA FL in an 8 GA wire is (2) sizes. I ain't up on electronics but I'd prefer a circuit breaker of the right type. I had a 66 dart that by itself overnight (diode in alt I believe) acted up & the wiring from alt to bulkhead & more/some on bulkhead to batt iirc was severely melted & the FL did not open
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1846349
06/11/15 12:38 AM
06/11/15 12:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664 IN
ahy
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master
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With a 100A alternator and output stud to fender relay wire, agree 8 gauge wire and a length of 12 gauge fusible link is good.
With a one wire, voltage drop in the charge wire is not compensated by remote sensing that ups alternator voltage to compensate... so the charge wire needs to handle typical current with minimal drop. If you have added non-stock accessories (eg fan, stereo, fuel pump, fans) that increase current draw, bigger wire is better. If electric load is increased, 6 gauge with 10 gauge fusible link would be better. I run this setup and has been trouble free.
AP stores rarely carry fusible link in 12 gauge or larger but "auto electric" stores generally carry at least 10 gauge.
NAPA also carries "maxi fuses" in high amperage ratings. If you use the fuse in place of fusible link, suggest at least a 125 A fuse with 100 A alternator. And get a spare for the glove box.
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Re: Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
[Re: ahy]
#1847159
06/12/15 02:39 AM
06/12/15 02:39 AM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 290 Dayton, WA
wesgtx440
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Dayton, WA
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Thanks all for the helpful information. Looks like I have some wiring to do.
68 Charger R/T 440 auto
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Re: Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
[Re: wesgtx440]
#1848052
06/13/15 01:32 PM
06/13/15 01:32 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,297 West Coast, USA
jbc426
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You are doing yourself a dis-service by going with the one-wire alternator. Be sure the alternator you do use puts out a lot of amperage at idle. Most don't.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
[Re: jcc]
#1848114
06/13/15 03:05 PM
06/13/15 03:05 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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yeah that semi melted insulation on the firewall on my '66 dart was an eye opener for me & left a lasting impression (No mas ever again if I can prevent it). not sure what the solution is but its on my mind
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
[Re: jcc]
#1848120
06/13/15 03:13 PM
06/13/15 03:13 PM
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,386 Philadelphia PA
Pynzo
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I am not sure I understand the real need for a fusible link where there was none. It does add a minor amount of resistance, and I thought there are reports of links opening with unpleasant results. There are a lot of cars that don't have this extra "safety" measure. I would think a true battery cutoff switch manual would be less headache and better in any full blown meltdown scenario. I totally agree. I had bought and was ready to install a Fuse Link into my upgrade engine harness and decided against it. Ma Mopar didn't use it, why bother? You connect the Alternator output directly to the Starter Relay Stud, the Battery Cable hooks up here(unfused), and from here a 16 gauge fuse link feeds power to the dash harness. Is there really a need to fuse the Alternator also?
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Re: Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
[Re: wesgtx440]
#1848238
06/13/15 07:10 PM
06/13/15 07:10 PM
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Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 114 Oregon
Wagonman1967
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I had My 70 Charger fry the harness when the Alternator shorted. The Amp wire melted and shorted to a hot ign wire and the engine would not shut off.Now on My 68 R/R the harness is out for restore and that same ckt is melted. I have a new firewall plug coming and will modify,get rid of the Amp gauge ckt but leave the gauge in. I will use an aftermarket Volt meter.You would think MaMopar would of put a fuse link in there as a safety. Silly engineering if you think about it. Where is Ralph Nader when you need him. HA.
1968 Bronze Metalic Road Runner !967 Malibu Wagon Original 4sd w/air 2001 Dodge Ram 4wd 1985 GMC K1500 4in lift 1993 Honda Civic W 350k Beater 2003 Honda VTX 1800 Bagger
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Re: Amp gauge bypass.....fusible link or not?
[Re: jcc]
#1848262
06/13/15 08:21 PM
06/13/15 08:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 26,360 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
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I am not sure I understand the real need for a fusible link where there was none. I don't understand the need for a fusible link even when there was one. A piece of wire that goes bad and doesn't always visibly show it= DUMB. A fuse or breaker would be my choice.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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