Great advice guys...Thanks!

I guess having great power AND great traction is a nice problem to have...

Jim that's pretty much Exactly the approach I was going to take.

Mr P, if I soften the shock I'm worried about the softer compression (they're not double adjustable to my knowledge) lowering the CG more...Right now it just dips slightly, plants the tire and goes, I'm just thinking with the Rocky anything I can do to prevent raising the CG at all(LOL) could and should be avoided!

The back seems to be doing it's thing perfectly, if I can reduce the rate of rise in the front without unloading the contact patch that would be the best of both worlds.

Best move I made on my Duster was to put DA shocks on all 4 corners. Made a world of difference controlling the wheel stands.

Leaving in second will help, and won't hurt anything. Probably won't slow it down much.

First thing I would do is take that low gear set out

Lots of good suggestions posted. I limited my front to about 1.5 in of lift, adjustable shocks in the back. I'm running cal tracks with mono leaf spring, eight inch converter stalled at 54000 and a power glide. Weight ratio front to rear is 55% front. Foot brake car. It was wheel standing bad (3 to 4 ft) when I was launching it above at 3800 rpm. I dropped the launch rpm down to 3000 and reduced the wheel stand to about 18 to 24 inches with no change in ET.

Run a digital ignition box, take the timing out at the hit, and slew it back in as soon as you can.

All good suggestions,

I think I want to stay with the low gearset, I'd rather take gear out of the rearend than the trans.

I didn't mention that I went down from a 29.5" tire 295/65 to a 28" 275/60 M/T and both tires hook like mad but the new compound M/T's are just awesome.

I'm going to try limiting the front travel from about 5" down to around 2 1/2" with longer bump stops under the UCA's, the Rocky has heavy Lower control arms and spindles, by reducing the body rise momentum it will be more of a "dead lift" motion instead of a "Clean and Jerk" ....so the chassis will have to work harder to get them off the ground....if I time it just right I won't lose any hook in that first tire rotation, I'd rather try that than try to induce 1/2 a turn of wheelspin with more rear tire pressure.

I thought about a digital timing retard for the first .1-.2 as well but I'd rather try to leave with all the motor has to put to the ground...that will be an option if I can't find another way to keep from going too high.

Fill the front bumpa with cement lol.

And the engine block. LOL

Right now (since it was designed for off road) there is a 1.25" bumper attached to the bottom of the upper control arms that contacts a dedicated flat pad welded to the Frame. I think I'm going to drill and tap the flat pad to allow me to put an adjustable bumper in to contact the UCA. Right now the static rise is 5.5" before it makes contact, probably a little "generous" considering the 85.5" wheelbase, huh?

With the old 4K stall 9 1/2" converter it would just hike the wheels 6-8" and it was really easy to drive. With the 8" I'm feeling maybe another 50 hp worth of torque within 3 feet off the line, like I said it's like a nitrous shot by comparison.

Nothing constructive to add here but, I wouldn't mind ruining a rear bumper at least once just for a good pic Always wanted to start a thread called "Best way to increase wheelstands" but felt I'd take a severe Moparts style pummeling Carry on

Look how short the rear overhang is, Standing on the bumper would put me at about 83 degrees to the ground!

Standing her up is the easy part, setting her back down with a short wheelbase and a high stall/light switch converter may a bit trickier.

I think this thing would be a good wheel stander... Currently for sale.

http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/4996646212.html

The first pic shows how my brother's Gremlin left the line on every pass last year during Hot Rod Drag Week. 9.30's mostly, until the shootout, when he added a second plate system, and dropped to 9.0's. He eventually melted some pistons on an 8.95.

This year, new pistons lowered the compression, swapped the SRs for a set of -1s and backed the cam up four degrees. The 440 responded with a 9.08 on one system, but he was concerned about a 100 foot wheelie on that run.

The second pic was his first run trying to add the second plate.
He let off the nitrous early, and tried to drive through it, but when the rear tires left the pavement, and the engine hit the rev limiter, he lifted briefly. Gasoline hit the windshield, when he stabbed it again as the car started down, the engine simply bogged and was unresponsive. It's going to need a new rack, and the front rails straightened...but, he has the hero shot to show everyone!!

Caution, Streetwize, is the better part of Valor!!

Billy, that Gremlin is insane! Good advice and I'm a big fan of Clint Eastwood's "a man's got to know his limitations'

After some trial and error, I've made some bumpers that will limit the rise from 5.5" ( way too much for the short wheelbase) to about 2" before contact and 2 1/2" before it starts to lift the unsprung weight. That should still give me enough unsprung hit to plant the tires and also limit the trajectory of the wheel stand to something far more controllable, it should at least give me time to hit the next gear before the Rocky gets to the 'Event Horizon', lol.

I watched the video a hundred times trying to figure out where the balance point is, can't wait to try it out again, thanks for all the constructive advice!

Looks like a pretty good recipe for disaster , high center of gravity , short wheelbase , not sure where you are going with this but if you get there in one piece I will be amazed . I only offer words of caution rather than encouragement , having a safe race car should be the goal for you and the competitor beside you.

Go green,

Respect your opinion but as you can see in the video the car typically runs straight as a rail.

http://youtu.be/BB49eJu-YEU

It's been running consistent low 11's but the 60' has been slow high 1.6/low 1.7 so if I get the car off the line in a typical high 1.4/low 1.5 as it should with the new converter, the car should run mid high 10's which is all I really want out of it. It's got a 6 point cage and the chassis is rock solid and the steering is slow so it's really easy to keep straight. I feel more safe in this car than most of the cars I line up next to, it's very solid, nothing flimsy about it at all.