If narrow band will do, that is a good suggestion. Pull any 4 wire sensor (or better yet get a couple) from a late model wreck for $10 or so, and get a guage for $30 or $40. You will only need 2 wires from the guage to the sensor so you'll have to wait for the sensor to warm up since it won't have heater voltage, but that's no big deal.

In the right hands, the cruise can be tuned as well with the narrow band as with the wide bands.

Cruise is extremely accurate with narrow band, it is the sweet spot (14.7-1 ratio) for sensor accuracy. 11-1 or 12-1 ratios are on the outer edge of the sensors resolution and care has to be taken when running up to the ragged edge. I have done it with great success but did make an ashtray with one engine running 20 psi till I found out how far you could push it.

Also excellent for watching circuit transitions, tuning with an O2 gauge is such a pleasure. No guessing as long as you are aware what circuits are currently in play (vacuum gauge valuable tool here) and when the next comes into the picture.

Typical Carter for example on primary side would be Idle Circuit -> main jet metering rod down -> main jet metering rod up. With the vacuum in the intake determining when you go from cruise to WOT on the metering rod.

Watch when pressing on throttle to see if there is lean spot or excessive fat bump (accelerator pump shot)

Once primary is right hook up the secondary linkage and hit WOT to check mixture. Adjust secondary mixture as needed.

Im a little confused, will a 4wire sensor be compatible with a 2 wire gauge?

Narrow band come in three flavors-

Single wire = output with ground through shell

3 wire = output with 12V and ground for heating element, sensor still grounds through shell.

4 wire = output with 12V and ground for heating element, sensor grounds through 4th wire.

Most gauges have sensor input, ground and lead for dash lights.

All the carb cars I have done use a 3 wire sensor installed down in the header collector. Being heated they warm up in 10 seconds flat and you don't have to worry about them getting sleepy if idling for extended period of time.

3 wire were used by mamopar from late 87 to early 89.

Point taken. However Most guys are running good, aftermarket intakes. A long ram intake is an extreme example. I have heard of some 6-pack guys running staggered jetting as well but again not common. With a single 4bbl with central located jets to feed 8 cylinders there's only so much playing you can do.

Multiple engines will be in this car over time.

If doing a single sensor consider an H-pipe and mount in the center.

This is, certainly, much ado about nothing. Narrow-band sensors are only accurate about 0.5 on each side of stoichiometric. If you're already there, then they can be helpful.

Also, with a 4-wire sensor it's so easy to run power to the sensors and get them to operating temperature. Just one wire to switched 12VDC and one wire to ground. As the sensor heats up the resistance goes up and current flow decreases to almost nothing, so there is no need for a control circuit on the O2 sensor heaters.

As far as wide-band vs. narrow band, when the cheapest wide band sensor was $200, maybe it made sense to just have one. But nearly every new car has them, they many times have a U-shaped connector plug and 5 wires, like my wife's Hyundai. The new sensor is around $100 from Rock Auto. For the JY scroungers, many of the 4-cylinder FWD cars have the O2 sensor stuck right in the middle of the exhaust manifold, right on front center of the engine. Pull it out by opening the hood, no crawling around on the ground.

This is an area where a newbie will be better off spending a little more time to get a product that is more user-friendly. Two sensors, data recording and playback can make life much easier for the novice.

One more thing: How many of you think that the right side of the carb feeds one side, and the left feeds the other side? In the case of long rams, yes, in the case of divided single planes, yes, in the case of my Weiand 7503 for the 318 Poly motor, yes, and for virtually everything else, NO. So the right bank exhaust is a combination of the right and left sides of the carb, as is the left bank exhaust. As was alluded to above, fuel distribution can cause many discrepancies from cylinder to cylinder and side to side.

Back in the day, the Direct Connect engine books were full of instructions on epoxying popsicle stick dams in the intake plenum to even out fuel distribution. Older data that I saw showed that most aftermarket intake manifolds had worse fuel distribution than the stock intakes, and as emissions laws got stiffer, the manufacturers stayed out in front. Port fuel injection cures a lot of those ills.

R.

The one thing that became ever so clear to me when I installed the 2 gauges on my longram engine to try to tune the carbs, was how badly this engine needs port injection instead...

I have been doing this for decades. Chrysler never had a control circuit for O2 sensor heaters (can't say on newer vehicles though) key on and blam the sensors were always powered.

For someone not pushing the ragged edge and on a budget narrow band is fine and for $30 and some junkyard parts you are in business. I did push the ragged edge for years at 20+ psi with nothing but narrow band and was very successful at it and it is a far less forgiving environment then n/a applications.

I found this thread today while doing research before ordering the Innovate DLG-1. Can someone correct my thinking and tell me if I am off base here. If I have this set up to read at each bank before the X-pipe, I would be able to see a rich reading on one side versus the other if I had a plug foul, correct? This is assuming both sides have been running similar to start with. I am thinking this would be an out of the box way I could be sure things are still ok day to day. I have a 526" and have had a plug wire burn already and didn't catch it right away because the cubes and stroke covered it up.

If you are reading each bank individually, you can identify an issue with one running differently than the other. Just don't go chasing the "lean" side when something like that happens.

I assume this is carb'd and it won't automatically adjust fueling based on the reading.

It is carbed. I would definitely look at the rich side. My assumption would be the rich side had some sort of misfire issue. That said, if one bank went way lean from normal I would also be inclined to look at that side.

Not neccessarily. AFR gages are only an interpretation of the O2 in the exhaust. They work only as long as the fuels burns normally. When there is a misfire, the O2 that went into the combustion chamber doesn't get used. There are other situations where the air fuel mix doesnt burn as intended and fools the wideband.