Using cheapo Hedmans and they never leaked before, until these last two go rounds. First time was Hedman fiber gasket with steel core,this time it's all fiber type Hedman gasket, leaking somewhere around #5 or #7. Took it off and redid it. Found what I think was power steering fluid on the bottom gasket edge of the #7 exhaust port,had a leak and think the gasket rubbed a wet spot. Otherwise the gasket was good with minimal distortion. Cleaned it and the head off with carb cleaner and reinstalled...same issue.

Any chance it will bake out?

Trick to tightening sequence or some other time-tested fix? I started out snug and now the bolts are all real tight with no effect.Don't want to go monster and strip aluminum threads.
Tempted to run it, but if anyone has a great idea maybe I'll give it one more shot. The average person wouldn't hear it with the hood closed, but it's annoying the crap put of me.

not likely it will bake out. I'd (1) check the flange for straightness (2) drawfile the welds (3) remflex gaskets

Do they have a solid flange to mount it to the head? If so, an old trick is to cut the excess out between bolt holes and it will seal better. Worked on a cheap, unknown brand I used until my Hookers came in.



Tim

Yeah I dont know who sells em (Remflex brand header gaskets) but they have gotten regular constant reviews (enough that they would be my choice hands down). I would eyeball the flange & go from there if anything appears way out of line especially there between #5 #7. What I like to do is loctite the studs in the head & use a fine thread nut on the outer end & & I mockup ahead of time & trim the stud so there is just enough thread left to end up with the nut flush as any more is a waste & hampers flange fitment in tight compartments which doesn't sound like an issue for you just throwing that out there.

DO NOT USE HEADER GASKETS ! I just use high temp silicone ! No leaks!

Remflex
B/RB http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-6002
LA http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-6003

How tight do you guys normally tighten regular header gaskets?
I noticed Remflex recommends 20 ft lbs.
I know I cranked mine down well beyond that.

First if the headers are hitting anything, that going to tweak them away from the heads and cause a leak. BTDT when I put a Lakewood bellhousing on my RR.

If clearance issues are ok, I've had great luck with soft copper gaskets at the head and headpipe (no leaks in nearly 20 years now). Jegs and Scummit have em. They're also supposed to be reuseable but I've never tried, like I said they havent leaked so no fooling and no retorqueing needed.

20lbs is about right for little 5/16ths bolts. Too tight will warp the flanges and or strip/break the bolts. Unfortunately you may have already done this. Not sure if your aftermarket heads have dry bolt holes or not but some thread sealer won't hurt.

ARP bolts with anti-seize...no studs.

This doesn't work with the headers in the car but when I redid the ones on my truck I used an air-board file to check them for straight...Then ground on them with a layered sandpaper wheel and kept re-checking with the board file. It's easy to get them straightened up and no leaks afterwards.

I use the copper rtv on both sides of the gaskets.

install,torque,let cure 24 hrs before fire up.

been on the truck for 4 yrs now no leaks at the head gasket.

no lower gasket leaks due to ball & cone collectors.

will be installing my hedman 79250 headers on the 440 this weekend and will be doing it the same way I have done all my SB engines running headers.

Ijust read here someone else used the copper rtv on both sides of gasket and let cure before install. then install them and torque for crush/seal.

one thing for sure, the droplets I have seen squeezed into the flow of the exhaust port did NOT burn off in 7 yrs of use. it does not get any hotter than at the exhaust valve opening.

read about doing this here on moparts in the 90s and have sealed up many warped cheapo header flanges ever since.

how you liking the A-body headers of any brand for install?

A-bodys are tuff install but worth the effort for performance.

You might try this:
Like mentioned above, I cut the flanges in two places, each side.
Between #1 and 3/5# and between #3/5 and #7, same on pass. side.

Allows flanges to conform to ports easier.

Done this a few times with good gaskets and NO leaks!

Joe

I took my Hedmans to a machine shop and had them refaced.

Anytime I have done this it has always been necessary to run it with the new gaskets a couple of minutes, then re-torque. Run 10-15 minutes, 30 minutes 1 hour, re-torque. Every time you can get at least .25 turn. When they don't turn, your done. Anytime I have not done this, the gaskets burn through as the gaskets shrink.

I ran Remflex gaskets and they worked very well. Do not use silicone with them or tighten them more then what the package recommends. You do not have to retighten them. They work good on warped flanges. Give them a call there customer service is excellent.

It's simple. Make them flat, then anything will seal them. I use a flat file. It's a pain in the but. That being said you only have to do it once. I file every set before they're ever installed. Occasionally you'll need to add a little weld to fill a low spot. If they're not flat, they will leak. It's just a matter of when.
Doug

If it bothers you that much, install manifolds, no more header leaks!