Ok. I have this 440 that I pulled from a motorhome about 2 years ago. Before that, the motorhome had been parked about 3 years, but it was running fine when it was parked (the tranny had lost reverse). Anyway, it's been sitting on an engine stand at the shop I worked at until I was laid off then I moved it to my garage. We had some pretty heavy rain here yesturday and my garage flooded just a little (which is normal). Today, with a warm, somewhat dry day, I was out in the garage and there was a coating of moisture on everything, which really sucks for my tools.

So here is my problem. I plan on swapping this 440 into my 86 D100. Originally, I wasn't planning on rebuilding it, but since it's been so long, and considering the humidity it is sitting in, I'm thinking that maybe I should reconsider. The problem is that I don't have any money for a rebuild. I definately don't have any money for machine work.

Would I be ok if, instead of going with a full blown rebuild, I just go with new rings and bearings, hone the cylinders, and maybe opt for a new cam? I already have an Edelbrock Performer intake and a set of headers to use, and the original t-quad I'm going to get rebuilt. I just wonder will my stock pistons be fine as I don't have the money to replace them. And what size cam should I go with for a mild street motor.

I'm sure I will have more questions later, but any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Bill

if it had the carb on it and plugs/manifolds on it, and its only been a few weeks, its more than likely fine to run...

The carb and intake currently are just sitting in place, not bolted down. It does have spark plugs in it. About 4 or 5 months ago, I pulled the plugs and sprayed some wd40 in each cylinder and rotated the crank to see if it would still move, then put the plugs back in. The exhaust ports (and the intake ports) are taped over. This does not mean that the engine is sealed up very well. For example, the valve covers are just sitting in place with the vent holes open.

I'm just really concerned about swapping the motor in and then finding a problem.

sounds like time and money are an issue. I'd suggest finding or building a basic test stand and fire it up. It's not a straight line, but it could save time or money, and could be returned or sold to make up for the investment.

I would pull the heads and look at the bores. If they look okay, then leave it. If they're not looking so great, pull the pistons, hone the bores and stick in some new cast sealed power rings. Unless water actually got into the engine, the bearings will be fine. There is always oil inside bearings, even engines that have been sitting for years. I would install a melling hi-vol oil pump just in case you need the extra oil flow. If money is an issue, the big summit cam is your best bang for your buck.

Thanks for the suggestions. Sounds like something that certainly wouldn't hurt. BTW, I had previously pulled the timing cover to check the condition of the chain and was surprized to find a factory double roller that seemed pretty tight. Might not hurt to change it anyway, but I am trying to keep costs down.

If I did follow thru with this, I was planning on new rings, new rod-main-and cam bearings, new oil pump, new mild performance cam, new double roller chain or maybe a gear drive. Again still trying to keep costs to a minimum.

How would a mild cam work with the stock low comp pistons? Since it is originally an rv motor, should I just keep my stock cam? Will Stan and Barbara finally confess their love for each other? These are just some of the questions keeping me up at night.

If you don't hot tank the block, cam bearings won't need replacing at this time. Very little load on them.

yeah just chcek it out 1st. If it looks good button it back up. Pull the pan and check the rod bearings. Good time to add a wingage tray. You can also pick up a Summit cam/lifter set for $119 That will take care of your cam question. I've used engines that have been sitting longer than that w/o problems.

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I've always been abit apprehensive about using the motor as is, even though it did run great before it was parked. Just concerned about a 30 year old motorhome engine with I don't know how many miles on it. And even though I need to keep it low-buck, I don't want to do it half-a$$. For example, if I pull the heads, they're getting redone. I guess I was just wondering if I could do the rings and bearings without spending $1000 on machine work and still have a realiable, strong running engine.


A couple of you have recommended the summit cam kit. Which one specifically? What size cam do you recommend for an otherwise stock motor with a Performer intake and headers? The truck will be a daily driver that will probably never see a track, but I do want the lope.

Thanks for all your help!

As long as it is out I would not hesitate a minute to pull the pan and put in bearings, rings and have the valves reseated. It won't get any easier or cheaper.

If it doesn't need a bore you can re-ring it cheap. All it takes is a ring compressor tool, a drill and a hone bit. Run the hone until the ridge is gone. and Bang nice and fresh. Is the engine on a stand? They can be had cheap or borrow one form a buddy.
I used the Summit 488 cam in a mostly stock 9:1 440 and ran 12.90's in a 3900lb 67 coronet. The smaller cam would make a good idle to 4800rpm puller. and wouldn't require any stall so to speak. I think it's around 460 lift??

In the 80s everyone in my town sucessfully rebuilt "sound" engines the budget way. I say rings bearings gaskets, high volumme oil pump and a new cam and lifters that will work with your valve springs. Truck motor so the cam will be small but the 2008 profile will be miles ahead of an oem cam.

Anyone have any recommendations on a cam? The motor itself is a bone stock 76 440 from a motorhome. I have an Edelbrock Performer intake and a set of headers. I'm also using the stock T-quad carb which I will get rebuilt. The trans has been rebuilt with a shift kit and a mild stall converter. I told them I wanted a converter that would work with a stock motor and have room for improvements. So what cam would you recommend and can you explain the specs on it?

Thanks!

Comp Cams is one manufacturer who makes cams ideal for low compression engines- Cams that build more cylinder psi. Shoot em an email or call. Keep in mind they wont reccomend any 280 this or that cuz you have a big ole heavy truck.

Any other suggestions about this rebuild or about cam selection?

Thanks for all the replies!

If the budget is tight, I would go for a summit cam/lifter kit. What rear end gear ratios do you have? Any info on that torq converter? "mild" doesn't really mean much. If you want a summit cam, you'll want the smaller one. I hear the bigger one is lacking in torq under 2500rpm on a low compression era 440.

If you want to spend a little more and get a bit better cam, I would go with the Lunati Voodoo 60301LK. It's $180 versus $110 for the summit cam, but the lunati would be a much better cam. Specs are pretty much perfect for a mild street truck. Has just enough duration to give you a little bit of an idle, but also give you great mid-range and low end power without killing top end power either. Specs are here:

http://www.lunaticams.com/Product.aspx?id=2335&gid=297

If the engine ran well before, I would just leave the stock bearings in place and put in a high volume oil pump. Unless you have some concrete reason you believe they need changing, I am sure they are fine.

IMO you'd be better off keeping the stock bearings and spending that extra money on the voodoo cam than spending your money on bearings and then having to cheap out and getting the summit cam.

Why would you leave the bearings alone? This motor is more than thirty years old and I'm not sure how many miles are on it. My wife said they have been all over the country with the motorhome (it was her moms motorhome) and could easily have over 100,000 miles. If I follow thru with this, I'm thinking honing the cylinders and new rings to help improve the sealing and while the rods are out, a new set of bearings. It seems only logical to me. And they can't be that expensive. I would think this would only help improve the reliability.

I don't know exactly what stall the converter has. I was only told that it has a higher stall than stock, but that it is also dependent on the power output of the engine...or something like that.

I've done a few engines that were low-milers this way:

Usually pull the whole thing apart for inspection (it's surprising what you find!), clean it thoroughly, and re-ring and bearing the block. New cam, chain and whatever the heads need and you're good to go.

I like the low mileage blocks with no wear on the cylinders mainly for their strong, thick cylinder walls.

It's amazing how a small cam and headers on an otherwise stock 440 will propel a reasonably lightweight car (3200 lbs.) into the 12's on a budget!

I'm doing this right now with a block that will act as an engine compartment "filler" until I save the money to do another block that I have that will get the "works".