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I am looking for a little more juice out of my motor. It is a relatively stock build.
Recent .030 rebuild (piston kit unknown). Told builder to keep near original specs of compression
Comp CamsXE262H-10
915 heads stock rebuild
Stock intake and exhaust manifolds with 2.5" duals, x pipe
727 with shift kit Converter unknown
3.23 suregrip
Eddy 750 vacuum
Mopar electronic ignition w/ chrome box and FBO recurve
14 degrees BTDC at idle, all in at 2500rpm 36 degrees
20" vacuum at idle

I want the best bang for buck to get some more pop as it has no throw you in the seat feel. Will only spin the 255 Coker redlines if turn wheel and stops pulling before 5 grand.

I want to keep the stock look, including air cleaner, and that is why I removed the Eddy Performer intake. I have the stock 4327s Carter to send to Scott for rebuild if that would help any.

Don't want to break the bank but if I need better heads and a carb I will do it. Dont want headers.. Any thoughts?

My plan was to throw on the Carter, put in 3.55s, and maybe better heads..Not sure which..

Thanks, Pete

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I would find out what converter you're running. might be too high a stall for your build. wouldn't start throwing any money anywhere until I knew that.

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I am looking for a little more juice out of my motor. It is a relatively stock build.
Recent .030 rebuild (piston kit unknown). Told builder to keep near original specs of compression
Comp CamsXE262H-10
915 heads stock rebuild
Stock intake and exhaust manifolds with 2.5" duals, x pipe
727 with shift kit Converter unknown
3.23 suregrip
Eddy 750 vacuum
Mopar electronic ignition w/ chrome box and FBO recurve
14 degrees BTDC at idle, all in at 2500rpm 36 degrees
20" vacuum at idle

I want the best bang for buck to get some more pop as it has no throw you in the seat feel. Will only spin the 255 Coker redlines if turn wheel and stops pulling before 5 grand.

I want to keep the stock look, including air cleaner, and that is why I removed the Eddy Performer intake. I have the stock 4327s Carter to send to Scott for rebuild if that would help any.

Don't want to break the bank but if I need better heads and a carb I will do it. Dont want headers.. Any thoughts?

My plan was to throw on the Carter, put in 3.55s, and maybe better heads..Not sure which..

Thanks, Pete

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I would find out what converter you're running. might be too high a stall for your build. wouldn't start throwing any money anywhere until I knew that.

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Ok I think that 750 is to big for near stock 440.
I would try a 650 holley or the thermo quad.
also something does not sound right.
I had a 383 stock with Edelbrock performer cam, performer low rise intake and carb performer 600.
pertronic ignition conversion worn out distributor in 69 charger with stock 727 trans and magnum manifolds with 906 heads and the car would smoke the tires no problem.
the 440 should have more power than that! also it should pull to 5 grand if that is the cam you have.
sounds like to me you have real weak valve springs if its not pulling to 5 grand.
do you trust the engine builder?
did you get what you paid for?

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Ok I think that 750 is to big for near stock 440.
I would try a 650 holley or the thermo quad.
also something does not sound right.
I had a 383 stock with Edelbrock performer cam, performer low rise intake and carb performer 600.
pertronic ignition conversion worn out distributor in 69 charger with stock 727 trans and magnum manifolds with 906 heads and the car would smoke the tires no problem.
the 440 should have more power than that! also it should pull to 5 grand if that is the cam you have.
sounds like to me you have real weak valve springs if its not pulling to 5 grand.
do you trust the engine builder?
did you get what you paid for?

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I am now suspicious of build. I referred a friend to the builder who is respected but apparently had one of his techs do his 383 and installed the wrong piston set, resulting in low compression dog. Mine doesn't have same symptoms as his and would smoke the old dried out tires before I got new ones. Also, if I stand on the brake pedal and load it I am sure I can break it loose. As I said, if I give it a little turn of wheel and punch it it goes sideways and holds it pretty well. These cars ran 16.00s when new so I think I got what I paid for, a mild rebuild.

I ran it close to 5 grand once and got a serious knock that went away after shut down. Never came back?? I have discussed it on previous threads and am a little nervous to tach it back up..

I think I will rebuild the Carter and see if that works better.

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Ok I think that 750 is to big for near stock 440.
I would try a 650 holley or the thermo quad.
also something does not sound right.
I had a 383 stock with Edelbrock performer cam, performer low rise intake and carb performer 600.
pertronic ignition conversion worn out distributor in 69 charger with stock 727 trans and magnum manifolds with 906 heads and the car would smoke the tires no problem.
the 440 should have more power than that! also it should pull to 5 grand if that is the cam you have.
sounds like to me you have real weak valve springs if its not pulling to 5 grand.
do you trust the engine builder?
did you get what you paid for?

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I am now suspicious of build. I referred a friend to the builder who is respected but apparently had one of his techs do his 383 and installed the wrong piston set, resulting in low compression dog. Mine doesn't have same symptoms as his and would smoke the old dried out tires before I got new ones. Also, if I stand on the brake pedal and load it I am sure I can break it loose. As I said, if I give it a little turn of wheel and punch it it goes sideways and holds it pretty well. These cars ran 16.00s when new so I think I got what I paid for, a mild rebuild.

I ran it close to 5 grand once and got a serious knock that went away after shut down. Never came back?? I have discussed it on previous threads and am a little nervous to tach it back up..

I think I will rebuild the Carter and see if that works better.

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These cars ran 14.0-14.8 stock, through huge reverse flow mufflers with 2.25 inch tail pipes. One that ran 16.0 would be a serious dog.

Try the A/F meter. I don't want to condemn the 750 Eddy, but there are noted problems and they require more attention than most. You should see around 13:1 or richer at WOT. As noted a few times it shouldn't have a problem spinning those tires. There may be alot left desired in the tune, but I'd question the build too. Maybe a low compression engine, which should still spin the tires. If your Avalanche is faster there is an issue.

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I don't think it is running out of fuel. If it was bad enough that it won't pull in first then it would be completely gasping in second and never make Drive.
Starts, shifts and drives well. Even grabs second every now and again. Less than 500 miles on build. Just no seat in pants pull at all. Much weaker in second..

Did they cut the heads when they rebuilt it? If so, how much? Unknown..
Adjustable rockers? Stock Rockers
If it still has stock rockers and the heads are cut a bunch it could be pumping up the lifters and floating the valves slightly. While we are on the subject of valve train, was the cam degreed?
I doubt the cam was degreed. I will try to find out.

What does it have for compression pressure?
Unknown

Also I would pull the pan and see how far off the bottom of the pan the pickup is. They don't rattle for no reason.
I don;t know what happened. I thought the motor was gone. It has a windage tray. Straight line accel and about 4700 loud knocking. Limped home. Shut down. Restart later. No noise??

Kevin

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(as said) what converter/cranking compression. HP or lowpo ex manifolds? total vehicle weight? I'd want 3.55's or 3.91's. how tall are those tires? non restrictive air cleaner?. with 20" of vac you do have a healthy long block. You might bring the curve in faster (lighter springs) & bottom line-no pinging allowed.

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You may, like a lot of other Mopar car owners, have a fuel delivery problem If you have the stock carb,. off of a 440 it is not to big Trust me on that I would go ahead and put the wideband sytem on the car and use it, it will tell you right away about the fuel supply system, if it starts to go lean at the higher RPM, especially in high gear , it is runing out of fuel Been there done that with all good parts There are a lot of gremlins that can affect fuek delivery, a lot of them Let us know waht you find out

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a little hard to help when we don't know the actual performance of the car. It might be exactly where it should be and your expectations are too high, or the thing is a total turd, we just can't tell.

My experience is when a guy does not know specifics like pistons and compression ratio, it is usually not good, i.e. very low. You should do a cylinder pressure test. Also, it would be helpful to know the cam.

There could be several reasons that it is under performing:
1) like Cab said, fuel delivery. It can rob power like no other, and unless you test it, you won't know.
2) Plugged or internal failure of muffler. This has happened to me twice. That is an instant loss of 30 + hp, but every thing seems fine.
3) Low compression.
4) Poor heads.
5) Poor tune


The factory intake is the biggest bottle neck on an already good running 440. It is done at 5000 and getting the motor to go past 5200 is a challenge.

A good set of 915s with some porting, good cam, decent compression ratio and a good tune will result is a car that runs very well, even with factory intake and the 4327 carb.

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THe 440 RT was a 15 second car and the Hemi was a mid 14 second car stock.
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/sedans/112_6706_dodge_hemi/photo_04.html
I have not dialed in the Eddy. Straight out of the box except float and idle circuit tune for max vacuum.

I have a bung on each side. Do I have to do a separate run for each side??

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I see a two runs of 15.4 and 14.7 for the RT and the car had the Cleaner Air Package Lots of these cars ran well into the 14s. Don't settle for less!

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THe 440 RT was a 15 second car and the Hemi was a mid 14 second car stock.
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/sedans/112_6706_dodge_hemi/photo_04.html
I have not dialed in the Eddy. Straight out of the box except float and idle circuit tune for max vacuum.

I have a bung on each side. Do I have to do a separate run for each side??

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I see a two runs of 15.4 and 14.7 for the RT and the car had the Cleaner Air Package Lots of these cars ran well into the 14s. Don't settle for less!

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THe 440 RT was a 15 second car and the Hemi was a mid 14 second car stock.
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/sedans/112_6706_dodge_hemi/photo_04.html
I have not dialed in the Eddy. Straight out of the box except float and idle circuit tune for max vacuum.

I have a bung on each side. Do I have to do a separate run for each side??

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I see a two runs of 15.4 and 14.7 for the RT and the car had the Cleaner Air Package Lots of these cars ran well into the 14s. Don't settle for less!

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Reading the article I caught this: "Both cars came with the standard 7.75 x 14 Red Streak tires, and running them this way with two aboard and test equipment netted best quarter-mile times of 15.4 seconds and 94 mph for the Magnum."

You're talking 4-500 lbs of extra weight here, or .4-5 seconds. With CAP.

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a little hard to help when we don't know the actual performance of the car. It might be exactly where it should be and your expectations are too high, or the thing is a total turd, we just can't tell.

My experience is when a guy does not know specifics like pistons and compression ratio, it is usually not good, i.e. very low. You should do a cylinder pressure test. Also, it would be helpful to know the cam.

There could be several reasons that it is under performing:
1) like Cab said, fuel delivery. It can rob power like no other, and unless you test it, you won't know.
2) Plugged or internal failure of muffler. This has happened to me twice. That is an instant loss of 30 + hp, but every thing seems fine.
3) Low compression.
4) Poor heads.
5) Poor tune


The factory intake is the biggest bottle neck on an already good running 440. It is done at 5000 and getting the motor to go past 5200 is a challenge.

A good set of 915s with some porting, good cam, decent compression ratio and a good tune will result is a car that runs very well, even with factory intake and the 4327 carb.

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I have never raced the car but have driven a mid 14 second car and this is not close. I honestly think my Avalanche would give it a good run. Maybe 16s.

Mufflers new and good exhaust system.

Would I pull 20" vacuum with such low compression?

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Um have you done the simple stuff, like check if you're getting full throttle? Check if secondaries are opening, check your full advance timing? Alot of the time the simple stuff is the culprit.

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THe 440 RT was a 15 second car and the Hemi was a mid 14 second car stock.
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/sedans/112_6706_dodge_hemi/photo_04.html
I have not dialed in the Eddy. Straight out of the box except float and idle circuit tune for max vacuum.

I have a bung on each side. Do I have to do a separate run for each side??

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I see a two runs of 15.4 and 14.7 for the RT and the car had the Cleaner Air Package Lots of these cars ran well into the 14s. Don't settle for less!

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Reading the article I caught this: "Both cars came with the standard 7.75 x 14 Red Streak tires, and running them this way with two aboard and test equipment netted best quarter-mile times of 15.4 seconds and 94 mph for the Magnum."

You're talking 4-500 lbs of extra weight here, or .4-5 seconds. With CAP.

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You do need to look closely at those old track tests. What you describe was common. Actual test weight could be as high as 4300 to 4500 lb.

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I wouldn't throw money at this till you figure out what's wrong currently. You should have more punch than implied.
Low vacuum at idle concerns me. I would expect at least 16". No power at 5000 is also troubling.
If this was a ulti keyway timing set you may be way over advanced btdt and have the broken rockers to prove it.

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Um have you done the simple stuff, like check if you're getting full throttle?

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You are right on. It actually was worse before. I had my son hammer pedal to floor and went and adjusted throttle cable. Was not opening all of the way.

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That was it? How much better is it running now with just that 1 change?

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Um have you done the simple stuff, like check if you're getting full throttle?

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You are right on. It actually was worse before. I had my son hammer pedal to floor and went and adjusted throttle cable. Was not opening all of the way.

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That was it? How much better is it running now with just that 1 change?

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We probably have similar builds and I am not impressed with my car either.. While it sounds like my car runs better than yours, still not very impressive in the "seat of the pants" test.. I think biggest problem is my 2.94 rear gears, as I just cruise the car, not interested in racing it...

I did not check cam gearing or if my original damper timing mark has slipped, so I can't complain, just giving you some feedback..
Stock 040 over 440
Original carb, exhausts, 915 heads, forged pistons, heads milled to appx 9.5-1 ( CC,d) 375 hp stock ( new) cam,..

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Measuring the cylinder pressure is what needs to be done.

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Measuring the cylinder pressure is what needs to be done.

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I agree with this. Until you know what cylinder pressure you have, you won't know which way to go for improvements. I'd also ping the builder to see if he can provide cam specs. If it was built with stockish compression (the overbore lowers it, btw, if you use stock height pistons) and he put in a bigger performance cam, then you have a recipe for sluggish response due to low cylinder pressure.

If the cranking pressure is low, the best stealth approach may be to swap cams to one that build more cylinder pressure. more pressure = more power.

However, by all means, dial in the carb and timing. That is never a wasted effort.

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We probably have similar builds and I am not impressed with my car either.. While it sounds like my car runs better than yours, still not very impressive in the "seat of the pants" test.. I think biggest problem is my 2.94 rear gears, as I just cruise the car, not interested in racing it...

I did not check cam gearing or if my original damper timing mark has slipped, so I can't complain, just giving you some feedback..
Stock 040 over 440
Original carb, exhausts, 915 heads, forged pistons, heads milled to appx 9.5-1 ( CC,d) 375 hp stock ( new) cam,..

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We probably have similar builds and I am not impressed with my car either.. While it sounds like my car runs better than yours, still not very impressive in the "seat of the pants" test.. I think biggest problem is my 2.94 rear gears, as I just cruise the car, not interested in racing it...

I did not check cam gearing or if my original damper timing mark has slipped, so I can't complain, just giving you some feedback..
Stock 040 over 440
Original carb, exhausts, 915 heads, forged pistons, heads milled to appx 9.5-1 ( CC,d) 375 hp stock ( new) cam,..

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2.94s can really kill a stock setup and make it feel piggy. Its funny, if you put them behind a radical engine it will make it harder/more tempermental to drive, but it will still pour on power and go. Stock stuff really feels better with some gear. I think the most impressed I've ever been with a true stock car was a 383 Road Runner with 4.10s and a 4 speed.

And don't forget most of these cars came with 2.94s and 3.23s came with something like F70-14s which are only around 26.5 inches tall.

To the OP I'm hesitant to say this, but I honestly think 20" of vacuum is a little high for that cam. I really wouldn't be surprised if that cam is not in the engine. Does it have a little gallop at idle or is it really smooth? Again though, it should still fry the tires.

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What is the idle rpm? Maybe set high enough as a crutch that the vacuum is artificially high. Could all tie back to a too tight convertor for this cam. Or massive vacuum leaks.

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One more question, you DID unplug the vacuum advance when you set the timing right? And did you verify your total with the light, or assume it to be correct based off of the info on the distributor?

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One more question, you DID unplug the vacuum advance when you set the timing right? And did you verify your total with the light, or assume it to be correct based off of the info on the distributor?

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I don't think any of the HP, Magnum, 375 HP 440 where 10.0 to one except the 1970 440-6 pak 390 HP motors that had the advertised deck hieghts of +.005 above the decks, all the rest of the 375 HP 440 HP Magnums had around 9.2 to 1 compression ratio or lower from the factory due to combustion chamber sizes being way bigger than blueprint specs., same thing on the deck hieghts, way lower than blueprint specs. OP, that 262H cam is a known little bitty baby cam

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My friend in HS/College had a 70 340 Swinger that ran 12.4 and did not break loose the tires. He did have wide MT street tires and it hooked like crazy, almost snapping your neck.

I don't think there is anything majorly wrong with it, just feel it should do better. Once it warms up and I can get a compression test, fuel pressure gauge, and A/F on it, I guess I will know more.

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Dude it's way too cold out to be monkeying around on that thing... You shouldn't need a fuel pressure gauge or A/F meter to tune that car. And a stock 67 440 should smoke the tires even w/ one plug wire pulled. My old 67 GTX w/ mostly stock engine (488 summit cam, CH4B intake) went 13.80's thru the logs and soda straw exhaust. Even w/ the tiny 625 Carter comp carb it would boil the 275/60/15 BFGs. When it warms up I'll try and get by and help ya.

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When it warms up I'll try and get by and help ya.

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But it doesn't have a Holley ???

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My friend in HS/College had a 70 340 Swinger that ran 12.4 and did not break loose the tires. He did have wide MT street tires and it hooked like crazy, almost snapping your neck.

I don't think there is anything majorly wrong with it, just feel it should do better. Once it warms up and I can get a compression test, fuel pressure gauge, and A/F on it, I guess I will know more.

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Dude it's way too cold out to be monkeying around on that thing... You shouldn't need a fuel pressure gauge or A/F meter to tune that car. And a stock 67 440 should smoke the tires even w/ one plug wire pulled. My old 67 GTX w/ mostly stock engine (488 summit cam, CH4B intake) went 13.80's thru the logs and soda straw exhaust. Even w/ the tiny 625 Carter comp carb it would boil the 275/60/15 BFGs. When it warms up I'll try and get by and help ya.

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So is a rebuilt stock Carter from Scott worth the trouble?

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So is a rebuilt stock Carter from Scott worth the trouble?

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Not sure I know what you mean by worth the trouble. Carb swaps are pretty easy and fast to do.

If your current carb is functioning properly, there probably won't be a big difference, But I have no idea the current state of what you have.

The 4326 and 4327 are nice carbs IMO. After working on mine a little, I thought it did just about everything better than my 3310, including et and mph on my stock 440. But you would never know it by the seat of your pants. I'll probably get flamed by some 3310 lovers.

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My carb is in new condition. The trouble is sending off the stock Carter to Scott and spending the 400 dollars to restore it, then either going without an electric choke or trying to track down all of the choke stove parts. Not exactly a few minutes. Probably juice noy worth the squeeze? Money probably better spent in gear or heads?

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My carb is in new condition. The trouble is sending off the stock Carter to Scott and spending the 400 dollars to restore it, then either going without an electric choke or trying to track down all of the choke stove parts. Not exactly a few minutes. Probably juice noy worth the squeeze? Money probably better spent in gear or heads?

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2 differences in your AFB vs. the newer AVS, first is the inlet diameter, carb horn, is smaller ... flow restriction , second is the base plate pattern is smaller meaning a tighter mounting base and I am pretty sure a slight restriction there also. If you are stock on the cast iron boat anchor intake then switch it to the 68/68.

As far as the electric choke, you can put it on the carter fairly easily , I'm sure Scott has done is many times ...

If it were me I'd get a Thunder series 650 and try that first , it'll be worlds better than the Performer 750 and you'll have a little better throttle response ... it may not do anything for your top end though ??? But how often are you at 5000 plus rpm ???

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Can the problems of the 1407 be corrected or is it an insurmountable design flaw?

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I dont know what those carb numbers make them, but you could rebuild one yourself for way less than 400 bucks. If you are wanting it spiffied up for show, it would still be dollars ahead to run it after a rebuild and see if it does what you want. I sure wouldn't buy a smaller carb new to try. A 750 is right for a 383 and definitely for a 440. I happen to like the carter carbs a lot. A 3310 is sweet but the carter design and function is right there and is easier to work with imo on a fine tune. Except the 750 eddy, which is just a POS any way you slice it.

I dont know about your intake other than i ditch the stock ones right away. You might look into a performer not performer rpm version or similar and paint and grind the outside to look more like stock. IIRC those are low enough to clear very close to stock and still work much better along with losing the weight.

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When it warms up I'll try and get by and help ya.

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But it doesn't have a Holley ???

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I stil think you need to identify the issue you have now before you through an upper end at it. If you don't fix it, it may be there after all the money and effort.

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My carb is in new condition. The trouble is sending off the stock Carter to Scott and spending the 400 dollars to restore it, then either going without an electric choke or trying to track down all of the choke stove parts. Not exactly a few minutes. Probably juice noy worth the squeeze? Money probably better spent in gear or heads?

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2 differences in your AFB vs. the newer AVS, first is the inlet diameter, carb horn, is smaller ... flow restriction , second is the base plate pattern is smaller meaning a tighter mounting base and I am pretty sure a slight restriction there also. If you are stock on the cast iron boat anchor intake then switch it to the 68/68.

As far as the electric choke, you can put it on the carter fairly easily , I'm sure Scott has done is many times ...

If it were me I'd get a Thunder series 650 and try that first , it'll be worlds better than the Performer 750 and you'll have a little better throttle response ... it may not do anything for your top end though ??? But how often are you at 5000 plus rpm ???

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67 hp intake is the same as the 68.

The cross sectional area would suggest that the air horn is not a restriction. Probably an effect at some point due to the transition into the throttle bores, but not likely at this performance level.

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Can the problems of the 1407 be corrected or is it an insurmountable design flaw?

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Depends on who you ask, but it seems to but an insurmountable design flaw

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My carb hierarchy:

Edelbrock: Good for drivability and around town. Down on horsepower when compared to other brands.

Holley: 3310 750cfm vacuum secondary used to be my default carb for a mild street 440. They make good power and get good mileage almost out of the box. I've gotten 14mpg on the highway at 70mph with 3.23's and ran 13.5's at 104mph with a VERY mild combo, stock intake and horrible 60 ft. time. 9.5:1 CR.

Demon: Yes, they had quality control issues there for a while when Barry Grant still owned them (metal shavings) but they are a good carb. I got ahold of a Speed Demon and it's starts and idles when cold much easier than the Holley. According to some of the dyno tests in the archives it flows better and makes more power than all but the best aftermarket carbs as well. I'm very happy with it and wished I'd tried one sooner!

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My carb hierarchy:

Edelbrock: Good for drivability and around town. Down on horsepower when compared to other brands.

Holley: 3310 750cfm vacuum secondary used to be my default carb for a mild street 440. They make good power and get good mileage almost out of the box. I've gotten 14mpg on the highway at 70mph with 3.23's and ran 13.5's at 104mph with a VERY mild combo, stock intake and horrible 60 ft. time. 9.5:1 CR.

Demon: Yes, they had quality control issues there for a while when Barry Grant still owned them (metal shavings) but they are a good carb. I got ahold of a Speed Demon and it's starts and idles when cold much easier than the Holley. According to some of the dyno tests in the archives it flows better and makes more power than all but the best aftermarket carbs as well. I'm very happy with it and wished I'd tried one sooner!

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Good info. I will be lazy and ask if the Holley 3310 needs an adapter for the stock iron intake or the Eddy CH4B? I assume it does..
Also, I have never blocked off the hot air crossover on my steel intakes, but will I need to on an Aluminum one? Probably definitely with the Eddy, right? There is a CH4B on ebay now that has the crossover welded shut already.

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Can the problems of the 1407 be corrected or is it an insurmountable design flaw?

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Depends on who you ask, but it seems to but an insurmountable design flaw

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I wouldn't call it insurmountable ... assuming one doesn't mind spending hours and hours with a wideband , taking the carb on and off , drilling passages , etc ...

I wouldn't be surprised if by just changing the carb to something that is NOT a performer 750 wakes the car up?

The performer 440 intake is basically the same height as the stock iron and weighs probably 20 lbs less , the CH4B is about a 1/2" taller but should have no issue clearing the hood , the one problem with most aftermarket intakes is they think everyone is running dual feed side hung holleys and move the coil mount to the drivers side.

The best intake for an very close to stock look in the OLD Mopar M1 dual plane, it's a copy of the 1970 iron intake in alum.

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Ok, I might have a line on a barely used Holley SD dual plane and Holley 650 vac sec. I am hoping that will fit and wont have the same fuel boil issues a Eddy does.. Was also told that 440 source had good heads that look stock when painted turquoise...

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Ok, I might have a line on a barely used Holley SD dual plane and Holley 650 vac sec. I am hoping that will fit and wont have the same fuel boil issues a Eddy does.. Was also told that 440 source had good heads that look stock when painted turquoise...

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easy killer lets fix what you have now 1st. EVEN with that carb it should run pretty well. Does the SD have the stock coil mount location?

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Ok, I might have a line on a barely used Holley SD dual plane and Holley 650 vac sec. I am hoping that will fit and wont have the same fuel boil issues a Eddy does.. Was also told that 440 source had good heads that look stock when painted turquoise...

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easy killer lets fix what you have now 1st. EVEN with that carb it should run pretty well. Does the SD have the stock coil mount location?

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You need to verify what you have to start with before you spend a dime on parts.

This means at the very least, a compression test. Just because you were told the engine is fresh doesn't mean it is or was assembled correctly. If you assume because it is fresh it will have 150 psi and when you check it you find it only has 90, or they are all over the place, you just found your problem.

The engine does NOT need to be hot to do this. If they are all 80-90 psi (low) cold or some good some horrible, warming it up isn't going to cure that. If it is low or not consistent, you need to find out why.

If it actually has good compression then you need to next confirm why it started knocking. That stuff does NOT heal itself. Did it lose oil pressure and scorch the rod bearings or did it float the valves?

Lots of stuff to check and the ONLY thing I would assume at this point is that everything that can be, is FUBAR.

Kevin

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Ok, I might have a line on a barely used Holley SD dual plane and Holley 650 vac sec. I am hoping that will fit and wont have the same fuel boil issues a Eddy does.. Was also told that 440 source had good heads that look stock when painted turquoise...

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easy killer lets fix what you have now 1st. EVEN with that carb it should run pretty well. Does the SD have the stock coil mount location?

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You need to verify what you have to start with before you spend a dime on parts.

This means at the very least, a compression test. Just because you were told the engine is fresh doesn't mean it is or was assembled correctly. If you assume because it is fresh it will have 150 psi and when you check it you find it only has 90, or they are all over the place, you just found your problem.

The engine does NOT need to be hot to do this. If they are all 80-90 psi (low) cold or some good some horrible, warming it up isn't going to cure that. If it is low or not consistent, you need to find out why.

If it actually has good compression then you need to next confirm why it started knocking. That stuff does NOT heal itself. Did it lose oil pressure and scorch the rod bearings or did it float the valves?

Lots of stuff to check and the ONLY thing I would assume at this point is that everything that can be, is FUBAR.

Kevin

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you need an adaptor for a holley on a stock intake.....

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[quoteeasy killer lets fix what you have now 1st.

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[quoteeasy killer lets fix what you have now 1st.

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I feel ya, it was only mid-50s here today.

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you need an adaptor for a holley on a stock intake.....

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Not sure I understand why you need an adaptor?

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On the '67 and '71 intakes I didn't need an adapter.

I did use a 1/2" phenolic spacer.

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Ok, I might have a line on a barely used Holley SD dual plane and Holley 650 vac sec. I am hoping that will fit and wont have the same fuel boil issues a Eddy does.. Was also told that 440 source had good heads that look stock when painted turquoise...

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you need an adaptor for a holley on a stock intake.....

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Not sure I understand why you need an adaptor?

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you need an adaptor for a holley on a stock intake.....

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Not sure I understand why you need an adaptor?

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On the '67 and '71 intakes I didn't need an adapter.

I did use a 1/2" phenolic spacer.

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you need an adaptor for a holley on a stock intake.....

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Not sure I understand why you need an adaptor?

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I meant to say SPACER

Because a Holley has parts hanging below the carb base that will hit the 67-69 intake , this is why Mopar didn't run a single 4bbl holley before 70 , the 70 intake heat riser was lowered and a Holley will fit.

Because he is stuck on stock only certian parts will work.

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you need an adaptor for a holley on a stock intake.....

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Not sure I understand why you need an adaptor?

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I meant to say SPACER

Because a Holley has parts hanging below the carb base that will hit the 67-69 intake , this is why Mopar didn't run a single 4bbl holley before 70 , the 70 intake heat riser was lowered and a Holley will fit.

Because he is stuck on stock only certian parts will work.

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Spacer, yes.

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as for fit, you can use a drop base and your stock lid. Paint the base black and roll. I had a CH4B 1/2" spacer and 625 Carter on my GTX w/ Stock assembly...well 2/3rds anyway. I ran a drop base, painted black. I Also ran the same set-up on a 67 Coronet w/ a Holley 750DP and it fit as well.

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