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I might have to do this in a couple of stages since the budget right now probably is in the 1000$, range give take a bit (not including tires and rims here) I'll have more $ in a few months. So it sounds like the list might go something like this:

Basic check of bushings ball joints etc.
Sways
shocks
upper control arm or moog offset
wheels
alignment (wouldn't it make sense to do the alignment last here?)
then when i get a bit more $ torsion bars and steering box

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Steering box...need something with more road feel
Upper Control Arms....allow to align with more caster
Shocks...Something nice, Bilstein
Torsion Bars...larger size
might think about swaybars front and rear too.

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For best bang for your buck, do the last thing on that list first. And first thing last.

On a 73 Charger you can run Moog offset p/n 7103 bushing installed for most caster (do not used instruction in box/kit). Just put those in the factory upper control arms and it will be cheaper that tubular upper control arms.

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Is that your car in the apex in your avatar picture? That looks like the handling i like.

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Near it.

In that picture, it's got 195 WR (wheel rate) torsion bars, F/R sway bar, kyb's, moog offset bushing with stock UCA's. Now has 248 WR T-bars, Bilstiens, Hotchkis system.

Your Charger is around 600 lbs heavier. I'd start with 1.06" Firm Feel T-bars or larger.

If you are sticking with 15" rims, research fitting 275/50/15 tires on 15x9 rims with 4.5" backspacing. I don't know if they would fit, but the front of a 71-74 charger can take some wide tires.

Almost all 15" tires stink. All that are reasonably priced stink.

Think about 16" or 17" tires. The better tires in those diameters will outperform even much wider 15" low performance tires.

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I might have to do this in a couple of stages since the budget right now probably is in the 1000$, range give take a bit (not including tires and rims here) I'll have more $ in a few months. So it sounds like the list might go something like this:

Basic check of bushings ball joints etc.
Sways
shocks
upper control arm or moog offset
wheels
alignment (wouldn't it make sense to do the alignment last here?)
then when i get a bit more $ torsion bars and steering box

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Stages are okay. A lot of us do it that way. Firm Feel and Hotchkis offer parts in pieces so you can do the updates in stages.

The reason why I suggest an alignment first is so you can discover where you are at. The change from original alignment specs to the suggested specs can make a HUGE difference in feel. You may find that once you get this corrected, the feel you want falls in line with your expectations and you don't need to pursue further hardware changes. Additionally, the extra caster will increase steering effort which will make the over-assist of the steering box less annoying which may influence your decision to change the steering box. Plus, unless you do alter the upper control arms, you don't need alignments after shock, sway bar, or wheel/tire changes so that alignment will be good for a quite while, depending on how the budget lines up of course.

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I might have to do this in a couple of stages since the budget right now probably is in the 1000$, range give take a bit (not including tires and rims here) I'll have more $ in a few months. So it sounds like the list might go something like this:

Basic check of bushings ball joints etc.
Sways
shocks
upper control arm or moog offset
wheels
alignment (wouldn't it make sense to do the alignment last here?)
then when i get a bit more $ torsion bars and steering box

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Stages are okay. A lot of us do it that way. Firm Feel and Hotchkis offer parts in pieces so you can do the updates in stages.

The reason why I suggest an alignment first is so you can discover where you are at. The change from original alignment specs to the suggested specs can make a HUGE difference in feel. You may find that once you get this corrected, the feel you want falls in line with your expectations and you don't need to pursue further hardware changes. Additionally, the extra caster will increase steering effort which will make the over-assist of the steering box less annoying which may influence your decision to change the steering box. Plus, unless you do alter the upper control arms, you don't need alignments after shock, sway bar, or wheel/tire changes so that alignment will be good for a quite while, depending on how the budget lines up of course.

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I see what you mean but wouldn't I have to change the upper control arms to get more positive caster?

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According to Rick Ehrenberg at Mopar Action Magazine, the single most valuable suspension/handling upgrade is a good set of performance wheels and tires. IIRC, he stated when outlining the build of the Green Brick Valiant, that they represent 80% of the performance upgrade on modern car sport suspension. After owning a Shadow ES Turbo, a Shelby Daytona VNT and a Neon ACR and having messed with multiple sets of tires on each, I can absolutely say that I agree. If I were attempting to get my car to handle, I'd start there, then shocks, then anti sway bars then torsion bars.

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According to Rick Ehrenberg at Mopar Action Magazine, the single most valuable suspension/handling upgrade is a good set of performance wheels and tires. IIRC, he stated when outlining the build of the Green Brick Valiant, that they represent 80% of the performance upgrade on modern car sport suspension. After owning a Shadow ES Turbo, a Shelby Daytona VNT and a Neon ACR and having messed with multiple sets of tires on each, I can absolutely say that I agree. If I were attempting to get my car to handle, I'd start there, then shocks, then anti sway bars then torsion bars.

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True to some degree. I thought he was fixed on 15" tires at first, but that seems not the case. But good tires and rims are probably going to be $400 a corner, $1600. Sway bars, T-bars, and UCA bushings will be half that.

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According to Rick Ehrenberg at Mopar Action Magazine, the single most valuable suspension/handling upgrade is a good set of performance wheels and tires. IIRC, he stated when outlining the build of the Green Brick Valiant, that they represent 80% of the performance upgrade on modern car sport suspension. After owning a Shadow ES Turbo, a Shelby Daytona VNT and a Neon ACR and having messed with multiple sets of tires on each, I can absolutely say that I agree. If I were attempting to get my car to handle, I'd start there, then shocks, then anti sway bars then torsion bars.

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True to some degree. I thought he was fixed on 15" tires at first, but that seems not the case. But good tires and rims are probably going to be $400 a corner, $1600. Sway bars, T-bars, and UCA bushings will be half that.

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I really like the look of high sidewalls for older cars like 295/50/15. I think I'm looking for a rim/tire combination that strikes a balance between "good looks" and performance. Remember this is not a track car but a street car. how tall would you say the sidewall could be to achieve this?

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I have run BFG's 295/50/15 on my 72 Charger with lots of space left. i even have the same tires on my 70 GTX wich have less room. I think I have 5.5" backspace on both cars.
Can I adapt the above mentioned formula on a 70 Cuda, are the geometry issues the same as on a late b-body?

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I have run BFG's 295/50/15 on my 72 Charger with lots of space left. i even have the same tires on my 70 GTX wich have less room. I think I have 5.5" backspace on both cars. . ...

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I have run BFG's 295/50/15 on my 72 Charger with lots of space left. i even have the same tires on my 70 GTX wich have less room. I think I have 5.5" backspace on both cars.
Can I adapt the above mentioned formula on a 70 Cuda, are the geometry issues the same as on a late b-body?

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