Re: Frame connector install on a 2 post car lift
[Re: Kern Dog]
#1737445
01/24/15 10:29 AM
01/24/15 10:29 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 952 Queens, N. Y.
FASTBACK340
super stock
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super stock
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 952
Queens, N. Y.
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NEVER weld in sub frame connectors on a 2 post. Never..... The load must distributed equally across the structure by either, as you stated, using a drive-on ramp lift or leveling and cross-squaring the rails and using 4 STURDY stands. Once correctly installed you'll notice the difference. They really tighten-up the unibody.
`68 Barracuda 340-S
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Re: Frame connector install on a 2 post car lift
[Re: Kern Dog]
#1737448
01/24/15 11:24 AM
01/24/15 11:24 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
I've read before that it is advised to install frame connectors with the car either on a 4 post-drive on type lift or on jackstands with the weight of the car bearing on its tires. I have also seen bare shells on rotisseries with frame connectors being added. Soon I am going to begin work on a 65 Valiant Convertible. The owner wants some handling improvements including chassis stiffening. It currently is a roller with no engine/trans or interior in it. I'm curious of any troubles I might encounter by doing the chassis stiffening while elevated on a 2 post lift. I'd think the lack of engine and trans would reduce flex with the car in the air as compared to a complete car. My thinking is that if the door gaps are consistant with the car in the air, it should be safe to install the connectors. I plan to use 3x3 .120 wall tubing cut and boxed to sit against the floor, similar to those that I made for my brother in laws 72 Duster.
IMO like you suggested. I think if your door gaps are good on the lift and good after the welding, then your good.
Like you said the motor and trans is out minimizing any flex to begin with, I would do it just as long as the car don't flex when you lift it off the ground, watch it closely as you begin the lift.
I did mine with the bare shell(coupe) sideways on my rotisserie and that was really easy. Everything fit on the car perfect when it went back together.
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Re: Frame connector install on a 2 post car lift
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1737449
01/24/15 11:54 AM
01/24/15 11:54 AM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,592 None
71rm23
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,592
None
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Quote:
Quote:
I've read before that it is advised to install frame connectors with the car either on a 4 post-drive on type lift or on jackstands with the weight of the car bearing on its tires. I have also seen bare shells on rotisseries with frame connectors being added. Soon I am going to begin work on a 65 Valiant Convertible. The owner wants some handling improvements including chassis stiffening. It currently is a roller with no engine/trans or interior in it. I'm curious of any troubles I might encounter by doing the chassis stiffening while elevated on a 2 post lift. I'd think the lack of engine and trans would reduce flex with the car in the air as compared to a complete car. My thinking is that if the door gaps are consistant with the car in the air, it should be safe to install the connectors. I plan to use 3x3 .120 wall tubing cut and boxed to sit against the floor, similar to those that I made for my brother in laws 72 Duster.
IMO like you suggested. I think if your door gaps are good on the lift and good after the welding, then your good.
Like you said the motor and trans is out minimizing any flex to begin with, I would do it just as long as the car don't flex when you lift it off the ground, watch it closely as you begin the lift.
I did mine with the bare shell(coupe) sideways on my rotisserie and that was really easy. Everything fit on the car perfect when it went back together.
All I have to add is this. I had to grind mine to make them fit to my liking underneath the car, to make it fit better to the contour of the floor is all. The doors open and close flawlessly. heck, even with one finger you can open and close my doors. I was worried and concerned about the geometry of the body flexing but not now with the way the doors operate
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Re: Frame connector install on a 2 post car lift
[Re: 71rm23]
#1737450
01/24/15 12:08 PM
01/24/15 12:08 PM
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,520 West Palm Beach, Florida
Copper Dart
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,520
West Palm Beach, Florida
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Frankenduster, Consider that a 40 + year old car, especially a convertible, is sagging a little from normal use ( not to mention if it's ever been tapped/bumped in the past ) chances are that a bit of sagging should be expected. That being said, I would "unload" the body on the lift and check door to fender gaps as well as door to quarter alignment and ease of open and closing. You may help the car regain its "as new" geometry when installing sub frame connectors. Just a thought. Copper
Last edited by Copper Dart; 01/24/15 12:10 PM.
Common sense, the least common of all the senses. Mom.
For fear of ridicule, society stifles creativity. Ricky Valdes
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Re: Frame connector install on a 2 post car lift
[Re: GY3]
#1737452
01/24/15 01:05 PM
01/24/15 01:05 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
I recently had subframes welded into my '63 and the difference was very noticeable.
We made sure and did it with the wheels all bearing the weight of the car.
The guy that did mine did it a little differently as I didn't want to interfere with the floorpans. He cut the front of the rear framerail out to where the 2x2 steel slid into it. The 2x3 that most people use is overkill for anything but a full on racecar IMO.
with both of the above posters^^^^^^^
3X3" is huge, unnecessary and adds unwanted weight to the car, especially if it's a race car.
.120" wall tubing is pretty thick compared to the sub frames. Ideally you want connectors that are close in thickness as the original sheet metal. A little thicker but not twice as thick. IMO
It needs to be approached differently with and without the engine and transmission installed and whether it's a convertible top or coupe.
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Re: Frame connector install on a 2 post car lift
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1737453
01/24/15 02:43 PM
01/24/15 02:43 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,712 Sacramento, Ca
Darius
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,712
Sacramento, Ca
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Hey Greg I leveled my car on 4 bottle type jack stands that we're sitting on some 4x12 pads for extra clearance to roll under on the creeper. Once I had them tacked in place real good I put it on the rotisserie and finished the welding. I imagine you could do that on the lift. Key is making sure you are level with the initial tacks. My door margin issues were more a result of so many different donor parts like doors and panels from several different cars as well as a repop or two from AMD
Driving modern convenience in classic beauty
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