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Grounding for battery in the trunck?
#1722011
01/05/15 12:38 PM
01/05/15 12:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,985
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,985
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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I have had great success running a rear battery and using the cage for a ground for the most part. I ground the heads AND block to the frame, use two 3/8 bolts welded to the frame, one for the electronics and one for the starter circuit.
My question is, for my street dart there is no cage, and I am moving the battery to the back. I am looking for a good way to ground the battery and thought that the same system would work, provided the ground connections are big enough (bolt welded all around the head?)to not create resistance at those points. I would drill a hole in the floor at the subframe area and weld it to the sub. The car has frame connectors. Input?
Last edited by gregsdart; 01/05/15 12:39 PM.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: gregsdart]
#1722012
01/05/15 12:45 PM
01/05/15 12:45 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
I have had great success running a rear battery and using the cage for a ground for the most part. I ground the heads AND block to the frame, use two 3/8 bolts welded to the frame, one for the electronics and one for the starter circuit.
My question is, for my street dart there is no cage, and I am moving the battery to the back. I am looking for a good way to ground the battery and thought that the same system would work, provided the ground connections are big enough (bolt welded all around the head?)to not create resistance at those points. I would drill a hole in the floor at the subframe area and weld it to the sub. The car has frame connectors. Input?
Since electricity travels on the exterior of the wire
(and the cage tubing) the cage isnt the best... so they
say.. I have never had any issue doing the same thing
on the cage as you.. and thats the way I set up my
Rampage.. I will tell you how the EFI likes that
ground system.. but I have no doubt its fine
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: gregsdart]
#1722019
01/05/15 02:29 PM
01/05/15 02:29 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Fastest 300
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: Crizila]
#1722022
01/05/15 03:18 PM
01/05/15 03:18 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Quote:
Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Not close to correct...........in fact that is the WORST way to wire a ground system. Just because people do it all the time and it is passable, does not make it right. Work with a lot of EFI cars as I do and you will quickly find the flaws in this type system. Your frame or sheetmetal is a TERRIBLE conductor.
What I do on all the EFI and actually everything I wire now, is a "floating" ground system. I attach a copper bus bar on rubber isolators under the dash. I run the cable from battery to bus bar and run all high draw grounds to this bar, such as ignition, pumps, fans, etc. I also tie both heads together and run a ground wire to bus bar as well. The ONLY thing I ground to the actual chassis or sheetmetal is the lights
Monte
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1722023
01/05/15 04:06 PM
01/05/15 04:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247
Mt. Vernon, Ohio
dartman366
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247
Mt. Vernon, Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Not close to correct...........in fact that is the WORST way to wire a ground system. Just because people do it all the time and it is passable, does not make it right. Work with a lot of EFI cars as I do and you will quickly find the flaws in this type system. Your frame or sheetmetal is a TERRIBLE conductor.
What I do on all the EFI and actually everything I wire now, is a "floating" ground system. I attach a copper bus bar on rubber isolators under the dash. I run the cable from battery to bus bar and run all high draw grounds to this bar, such as ignition, pumps, fans, etc. I also tie both heads together and run a ground wire to bus bar as well. The ONLY thing I ground to the actual chassis or sheetmetal is the lights
Monte
this is they way I did it back in the day and it still functions correctly, I had run the main ground from the battery to the frame then ran a 08 ground wire to the buss and ran all my grounds to that,,engine,electronics etc. 
Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1722024
01/05/15 07:16 PM
01/05/15 07:16 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Quote:
Quote:
Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Not close to correct...........in fact that is the WORST way to wire a ground system. Just because people do it all the time and it is passable, does not make it right. Work with a lot of EFI cars as I do and you will quickly find the flaws in this type system. Your frame or sheetmetal is a TERRIBLE conductor.
What I do on all the EFI and actually everything I wire now, is a "floating" ground system. I attach a copper bus bar on rubber isolators under the dash. I run the cable from battery to bus bar and run all high draw grounds to this bar, such as ignition, pumps, fans, etc. I also tie both heads together and run a ground wire to bus bar as well. The ONLY thing I ground to the actual chassis or sheetmetal is the lights
Monte
 but the individual circuit voltage loss between the 2 systems is negligible, and just not practical in most instance's. Use the frame or 1000 feet of wire? I could see it for some "highly sensitive" circuits, but to run a fan, water pump, or a fuel pump, etc., not needed.
Fastest 300
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1722025
01/05/15 07:21 PM
01/05/15 07:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Quote:
Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Not close to correct...........in fact that is the WORST way to wire a ground system. Just because people do it all the time and it is passable, does not make it right. Work with a lot of EFI cars as I do and you will quickly find the flaws in this type system. Your frame or sheetmetal is a TERRIBLE conductor.
What I do on all the EFI and actually everything I wire now, is a "floating" ground system. I attach a copper bus bar on rubber isolators under the dash. I run the cable from battery to bus bar and run all high draw grounds to this bar, such as ignition, pumps, fans, etc. I also tie both heads together and run a ground wire to bus bar as well. The ONLY thing I ground to the actual chassis or sheetmetal is the lights
Monte
exactly, thats the way I do them also
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: Crizila]
#1722026
01/05/15 07:22 PM
01/05/15 07:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Not close to correct...........in fact that is the WORST way to wire a ground system. Just because people do it all the time and it is passable, does not make it right. Work with a lot of EFI cars as I do and you will quickly find the flaws in this type system. Your frame or sheetmetal is a TERRIBLE conductor.
What I do on all the EFI and actually everything I wire now, is a "floating" ground system. I attach a copper bus bar on rubber isolators under the dash. I run the cable from battery to bus bar and run all high draw grounds to this bar, such as ignition, pumps, fans, etc. I also tie both heads together and run a ground wire to bus bar as well. The ONLY thing I ground to the actual chassis or sheetmetal is the lights
Monte
but the individual circuit voltage loss between the 2 systems is negligible, and just not practical in most instance's. Use the frame or 1000 feet of wire? I could see it for some "highly sensitive" circuits, but to run a fan, water pump, or a fuel pump, etc., not needed.
not really but you can do it that way if you like.
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1722027
01/05/15 08:37 PM
01/05/15 08:37 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,822
MI, usa
dvw
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,822
MI, usa
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Quote:
Quote:
Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Not close to correct...........in fact that is the WORST way to wire a ground system. Just because people do it all the time and it is passable, does not make it right. Work with a lot of EFI cars as I do and you will quickly find the flaws in this type system. Your frame or sheetmetal is a TERRIBLE conductor.
What I do on all the EFI and actually everything I wire now, is a "floating" ground system. I attach a copper bus bar on rubber isolators under the dash. I run the cable from battery to bus bar and run all high draw grounds to this bar, such as ignition, pumps, fans, etc. I also tie both heads together and run a ground wire to bus bar as well. The ONLY thing I ground to the actual chassis or sheetmetal is the lights
Monte
Lets look at a new Charger or Challenger. Battery in the trunk, tons of components that are Can Bus based. Cars are even sent to the lab to check for radio and magnetic interference. Guess where the ground connects? Frame rail next to the battery. What do you think?
Doug
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Re: Grounding for battery in the trunck?
[Re: dvw]
#1722030
01/05/15 10:50 PM
01/05/15 10:50 PM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,410
Belpre,Ohio
CHAPPER
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,410
Belpre,Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Not close to correct...........in fact that is the WORST way to wire a ground system. Just because people do it all the time and it is passable, does not make it right. Work with a lot of EFI cars as I do and you will quickly find the flaws in this type system. Your frame or sheetmetal is a TERRIBLE conductor.
What I do on all the EFI and actually everything I wire now, is a "floating" ground system. I attach a copper bus bar on rubber isolators under the dash. I run the cable from battery to bus bar and run all high draw grounds to this bar, such as ignition, pumps, fans, etc. I also tie both heads together and run a ground wire to bus bar as well. The ONLY thing I ground to the actual chassis or sheetmetal is the lights
Monte
Lets look at a new Charger or Challenger. Battery in the trunk, tons of components that are Can Bus based. Cars are even sent to the lab to check for radio and magnetic interference. Guess where the ground connects? Frame rail next to the battery. What do you think?
Doug
Frame has high copper content.
If you like drag racing, support your local track.
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I have drilled through the trunk floor through the sub frame flanged with one ground strap and had issues with the starter laboring on the hit when the motor was warm, ended up melting the battery post lugs and the lead clamps on the cables 
I do use multiple grounds off of the block to the front sub frames also 
