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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: Stanton]
#1713151
12/21/14 02:19 AM
12/21/14 02:19 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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What Stanton said, add a plate like Andys and mount the eng lower so it ain't so top heavy which they tend to be
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1713152
12/21/14 10:39 AM
12/21/14 10:39 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,431
USA
SSAAHemiFan
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,431
USA
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I just bought one of these for a all iron street hemi. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80059/100...CFetDMgodZm0ArwI changed out all the bolts and zapped a couple of welds to eliminate the folding feature. It is the same Sunnex stand alot of others re-label and sell for more money. Has a little slop in the head but it is working just fine so far - The tubing was way thicker on my old harbor freight stand but you just couldn't rotate it with 1 person
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: SSAAHemiFan]
#1713153
12/21/14 11:06 AM
12/21/14 11:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
ahy
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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I got a WW Grainger stand like the one below after a controlled test of a cheapie... After pulling the full dressed 318 I bolted it up to the stand and slowly lowered the hoist... it just kept going down and down as the cheapie folded. The Grainger stand handled a full dressed BB without issue or distress. Also a longer full dressed six from a 1947 PW. The "H" base is not quite as handy as a "T" but very stable. http://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD..._AS01?$smthumb$
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: ahy]
#1713154
12/21/14 12:51 PM
12/21/14 12:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,702
North Dakota
6PakBee
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,702
North Dakota
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Thanks for all the comments and suggestions! After reading all of the posts I've come to the conclusion that what I want doesn't exist. I think that what I'm going to do is buy a quality 1250# or 1500# version and then add some additional material to strengthen it. I would assume that the stand would fail in three ways: 1) the connection at the vertical section to the base would twist and fail, 2) the legs would fail in bending, 3) the base at the connection to the vertical section would fail by bending. I'll add material to address these and hopefully be good to go.
"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: 6PakBee]
#1713155
12/21/14 01:50 PM
12/21/14 01:50 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,100
Western Md.
skicker
"The Champ"
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"The Champ"
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,100
Western Md.
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I think something that may get missed here is that there is no "one setting" for an engine on the stand. If your assembling the short block and want it to rotate easily the weight needs to be close to the center line of the pivot. Once that's complete and you want to assemble the long block and rotate it freely the short block needs to be lowered on the mount to accommodate the weight added higher. A complete engine will rotate easier if if is positioned correctly on the stand.  
...FAFO...
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: 6PakBee]
#1713157
12/21/14 02:19 PM
12/21/14 02:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,720
Jefferson State
srt
ESYC
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ESYC
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,720
Jefferson State
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Before you pull the trigger, do consider calling Stroppini and see what they have available. I've had full dressed big blocks on mine without the hint of instability. I think they have what you are looking for. The one I have is stout and never hinted at bending. It's usa made and highly respected equipment.
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: WarEagle1]
#1713159
12/23/14 01:49 PM
12/23/14 01:49 PM
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,603
Central Ohio
BMChrysler68
Smarter than the average bear? I think not.
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Smarter than the average bear? I think not.
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,603
Central Ohio
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Hot Rod did at test of HF stands and found that they would hold beyond the listed capcity. They ended up pushing down on the 750# (I think, it was a while back) stand with a fork lift to get it to bend.
Like others have said, I think the weak point is having the adjustable arms to accommodate different bolt paterns. A plate or fabbed head would probably be the way to go regardless of the stand.
1968 Plymouth Fury III
2dr FT, 383-4v, 4 speed
1972 AMC Ambassador SST wagon
360-4v, automatic
2014 Challenger R/T Classic 6-speed
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: skicker]
#1713160
12/23/14 01:53 PM
12/23/14 01:53 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
I think something that may get missed here is that there is no "one setting" for an engine on the stand.
If your assembling the short block and want it to rotate easily the weight needs to be close to the center line of the pivot.
Once that's complete and you want to assemble the long block and rotate it freely the short block needs to be lowered on the mount to accommodate the weight added higher.
A complete engine will rotate easier if if is positioned correctly on the stand.
I have never seen the need to spin a engine around with the heads on. Why?
Assemble the short block including the oil pan, then bolt on the heads and the rest.
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: 6PakBee]
#1713164
12/23/14 05:15 PM
12/23/14 05:15 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,274
s.w.fl
bonefish
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,274
s.w.fl
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Quote:
I've had it with my el-cheapo engine stand. Any reasonable force like torquing head bolts or mains and the thing wobbles to the point I'm afraid something is going to break. I'm going to start on my first Hemi next year and I'd rather it not end up on the floor. I'd like to get a good 2000# version for around $1000 but I can't find one. They seem to go from the cheap 2000# versions for a couple hundred bucks to the 3000# diesel stands that are four thousand bucks. I could make one but I really don't want to take the time. Anybody know of somebody that sells a quality 2000# stand in that price range?
Ive had one of these for 15 years and its seen a lot of use.all I did was put bigger wheels on it to raise it up and make it easy to roll.igot mine at Northern Tool with the heavy duty folding cherry picker for 199.00 for the pair on sale
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: JohnRR]
#1713166
12/24/14 01:00 PM
12/24/14 01:00 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,410
Weatherford, Texas
RapidusMaximus
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,410
Weatherford, Texas
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Quote:
I stopped using 3 legged stands after dumping an engine in the driveway when it hit a small rut.
Can we have an AMEN! on that...been there done that with a 400 out of an old Polara, lucky no one lost any toes or feet, hit a piece of gravel with the front wheel rolling it into the garage and folded that 3 legged piece or "stuff" right under.  I still have one of the cheap things in the back corner of the shop with a complete motor home 400 sitting on it, it has probably sagged 6", I take a wide path around it, when I build my next stroker it will come off and I'll build braces and plates for it. I currently have 5 engines on stands in the shop and all but 2 are of the four legged versions, never have had a problem with the 4 leggers and a complete BB, I too do not rotate the engine after the heads are installed. Never built a HEMI so no experience with that weight. 
1968 Plymouth GTX
1974 Dodge P/U Long Bed Stepside 318
2019 Ram 2500 6.4, auto, 4WD
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Re: Engine Stand
[Re: 6PakBee]
#1713168
12/24/14 04:55 PM
12/24/14 04:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,747
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,747
Rio Linda, CA
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Anybody remember who, in the sixties, built the original engine stand with the patented universal head?
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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