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Muratic Acid for Emblems #1706507 12/04/14 12:19 AM 12/04/14 12:19 AM
Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 208 washington T TA Wanted OP enthusiast
TA Wanted OP enthusiast T Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 208 washington	On GYC they talked about dipping emblems into the muratic acid to clean for restoreing them. Has anyone done this? I have an old set and may try it out nothing to loose.???

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: TA Wanted] #1706508 12/04/14 12:25 AM 12/04/14 12:25 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 42,714 Spokane Washington ScottSmith_Harms Mr Wizzard
ScottSmith_Harms Mr Wizzard Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 42,714 Spokane Washington	Works fine IF the chrome is intact and you don't have any pits. If you have pits the acid can dissolve the white metal underneath the chrome. Try it on some junk emblems first.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: TA Wanted] #1706509 12/04/14 01:19 AM 12/04/14 01:19 AM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada	"cleaning in muriatic acid" and "restoring" probably should not be used in the same paragraph !! I haven't seen the episode BUT I would imagine the whole point is to eat away any of the corosion/pits - which will leave clean ... pits! Those pits are then filled - usually with solder since anything else either won't take plating OR requires more heat than the zinc emblem can tolerate. My guess is they don't trust the plater to do a proper prep job OR they now have so much stinkin' money they do plating in-house. I see no reason why you'd want to dip good chrome in muriatic acid !!

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: Stanton] #1706510 12/04/14 05:46 PM 12/04/14 05:46 PM
Joined: May 2009 Posts: 562 New York E EL5 71 mopar
EL5 71 mopar E Joined: May 2009 Posts: 562 New York	I dip my chrome emblems, radio knobs,Rallye lug nuts, hood pins or just about anything chrome that looks pit free but grungy in this. It does an awesome job of cleaning off decades of crap on emblems. I use a soft toothbrush to gently scrub the parts before rinsing off with water. Even the plastic style radio knobs with the chrome on the edges come out looking incredible with just a little brushing and a rinse. I do not leave those in there for more than a few minutes as it will remove the chrome if left submerged for too long. 8351242-IMG_2596.JPG (235 downloads) Last edited by EL5 71; 12/04/14 05:48 PM.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: EL5 71] #1706511 12/06/14 12:23 PM 12/06/14 12:23 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 1,033 Madison, Wisconsin chrisnben super stock
chrisnben super stock Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 1,033 Madison, Wisconsin	any chromed steel or pot metal items can be soaked in Oxalic acid (deck wash) purchased at Menards. Make sure to read the label- some deck wash is different. Comes in gallon jugs $10- mix with water of eaqual amount in a rubbermade container or similar- soak for 24 hours. Use rubber gloves, pull out and rinse off with water. Use a 3M scour pad if needed. You will see the rust turn yellow & be amazed at results! DO NOT soak aluminum parts- they will melt! '70 Cuda "Badfish 2"- in the works Home of MoPar University- We school 'em one at a time!!

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: chrisnben] #1706512 12/06/14 04:41 PM 12/06/14 04:41 PM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada	I watched that episode last night and its hilarious how little disregard they have for the viewer's safety! There is no way in hell he could hold a jar of straight muriatic acid that close without choking and gagging on the fumes. He could have at least mentioned its been watered down!

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: Stanton] #1706513 12/06/14 04:55 PM 12/06/14 04:55 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 42,714 Spokane Washington ScottSmith_Harms Mr Wizzard
ScottSmith_Harms Mr Wizzard Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 42,714 Spokane Washington	FWIW there is a "safer" form of muriatic acid you can buy I a gallon jug from places like Home Depot, it is less nasty to handle and does the same job (not that I am promoting using it to clean emblems).

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: Stanton] #1706514 12/06/14 04:59 PM 12/06/14 04:59 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,467 So Cal autoxcuda Too Many Posts
autoxcuda Too Many Posts Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,467 So Cal	Quote: I watched that episode last night and its hilarious how little disregard they have for the viewer's safety! There is no way in hell he could hold a jar of straight muriatic acid that close without choking and gagging on the fumes. He could have at least mentioned its been watered down! I made the mistake of buying the 15% solution Muratic Acid from Lowes... WOW! that choked me out good. Holy $!^& knarly stuff. I bought 3 gallons and attempted to fill a old ice chest with the stuff to dunk exhaust manifold in. BAD IDEA. just pouring it in stirred up enough fumes I gagged out and had to put the lip immediately on it. I though my neighbors would call the cops if they smelled it. I should have bought the "Safer" 10% solution stuff. I hear it's much less harsh to work with. It may be scented even. But still I would not put it on a emblem. Afraid the acid would get into fine cracks in the chrome and eat the soft die cast part alive over time. I bet it's a real fast way to clean an emblem. And after it's shipped out the door and the customer has the car, the guy who cleaned it doesn't have to worry about it. He just got the job done as quick and easy as possible. Last edited by autoxcuda; 12/06/14 05:01 PM.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: autoxcuda] #1706515 12/06/14 05:23 PM 12/06/14 05:23 PM
Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 714 USA L Lawn Monkey super stock
Lawn Monkey super stock L Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 714 USA	I use this , The Works, excellent for aluminum and chrome just soak parts for 15-25 minutes rinse dry and polish.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: Lawn Monkey] #1706516 12/06/14 07:48 PM 12/06/14 07:48 PM
Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,148 M McCandlessboy super stock
McCandlessboy super stock M Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,148	Would be cool if someone had before and after pictures.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: McCandlessboy] #1706517 12/06/14 07:58 PM 12/06/14 07:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 18,632 jersey shore F flypaper I hate Texas
flypaper I hate Texas F Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 18,632 jersey shore	that stupid tv show is gonna screw up more parts and cars then one could ever imagine!

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: McCandlessboy] #1706518 12/06/14 08:07 PM 12/06/14 08:07 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,467 So Cal autoxcuda Too Many Posts
autoxcuda Too Many Posts Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,467 So Cal	Quote: Would be cool if someone had before and after pictures. I've got pictures of it on Cast Iron exhaust manifolds. I would never use it on emblems. I can clean them fine with q-tips, chrome polish, very fine steel/brass wool. Actually an old electric drafting eraser works great. I don't mess with pitted to death emblems. I buy better used ones or buy new. Especially if I was doing a full "resto". Maybe the acid will make a full junk emblem look like a 3/4 junk emblem in quick time.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: autoxcuda] #1706519 12/07/14 02:32 PM 12/07/14 02:32 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 75,003 U.S.S.A. JohnRR I Win
JohnRR I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 75,003 U.S.S.A.	Quote: Quote: Would be cool if someone had before and after pictures. I've got pictures of it on Cast Iron exhaust manifolds. I would never use it on emblems. I can clean them fine with q-tips, chrome polish, very fine steel/brass wool. Actually an old electric drafting eraser works great. I don't mess with pitted to death emblems. I buy better used ones or buy new. Especially if I was doing a full "resto". Maybe the acid will make a full junk emblem look like a 3/4 junk emblem in quick time. Lets see them , I have a BLOCK I need to dip ...

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: JohnRR] #1706520 12/07/14 03:03 PM 12/07/14 03:03 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,467 So Cal autoxcuda Too Many Posts
autoxcuda Too Many Posts Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,467 So Cal	Quote: Quote: Quote: Would be cool if someone had before and after pictures. Remember I used the 15% extra strength Muriatic Acid DON'T DO THAT They usually sell 10% mix. I've got pictures of it on Cast Iron exhaust manifolds. I would never use it on emblems. I can clean them fine with q-tips, chrome polish, very fine steel/brass wool. Actually an old electric drafting eraser works great. I don't mess with pitted to death emblems. I buy better used ones or buy new. Especially if I was doing a full "resto". Maybe the acid will make a full junk emblem look like a 3/4 junk emblem in quick time. Lets see them , I have a BLOCK I need to dip ... About frickin killed me.... These were actually very nice So Cal exhaust manifold with no real pitting. I was just looking to see if I could get a fresh out of the mold/NOS look to them. Problem is after I took them out of the acid bath they want to flash rust immediately. I had a water filled dunk tank next my acid tank to wash and brush off the acid from the manifold immediately. Then immediately right after I pulled them out of the water, I sprayed the heck out of them with Justice Brothers Chain Lube spray. That is a little sticky in texture, so I felt it would stick on the piece. I tried to brush the JB Chain Lube it in tight corners too. The top manifold is me bushing on the acid section by section with a brass brush then washing it with water. The previous sections would get slight flash rust if they weren't kept covered in water. And I did not spray coat protect the manifold afterward. The bottom manifold is the one I dunked. I did not have the acid deep enough to get the flapper valve covered. I had another gallon I could have put in. But I realized "what the h#ll am I going to do with this stuff after I pour it in". And the fumes from just pouring it in made it tough to do while coughing and trying to stay out of the fume clouds. I did this on Sept 1, 2014. And they look identical right now. 8354368-IMG_6738.JPG (193 downloads) Last edited by autoxcuda; 12/07/14 03:13 PM.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: autoxcuda] #1706521 12/07/14 04:38 PM 12/07/14 04:38 PM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada	Muriatic acid is no way to be doing stuff this size. The fumes will kill you, the stuff will burn you, it flash rusts as soon as you take the parts out and disposal is a real issue. For any rust removal I suggest something like evaporust. Its much safer, stuff won't flash rust and disposal is less of a problem.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: Stanton] #1706522 12/08/14 10:05 PM 12/08/14 10:05 PM
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 8,248 fredericksburg,va C cudaman1969 master
cudaman1969 master C Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 8,248 fredericksburg,va	Quote: Muriatic acid is no way to be doing stuff this size. The fumes will kill you, the stuff will burn you, it flash rusts as soon as you take the parts out and disposal is a real issue. For any rust removal I suggest something like evaporust. Its much safer, stuff won't flash rust and disposal is less of a problem. I was wondering when this guy would show up. If you can afford to buy enough evaporust you are rich enough to send it to the big guys and not do it yourself. I have used muriatic acid for 40 years to clean rust and paint off of big items. Don't use on alluminum, use outside and keep your head out of the bucket. A little common sense goes a long way. I have anouther container with soda water to counteract the acid bath, just dip for a few minutes then rinse. Anouther continer with the radiator rust inhibator to keep from flashing. Muratic acid evaporates into the air so keep away from anthing that you don't want to rust up.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: cudaman1969] #1706523 12/09/14 02:03 AM 12/09/14 02:03 AM
Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 654 MN astrobuf mopar
astrobuf mopar Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 654 MN	You should be wearing a respirator with an Acid gas cartridge with this stuff. Astrobuf So, are you really a Rocket Scientist?

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: astrobuf] #1706524 12/09/14 03:19 AM 12/09/14 03:19 AM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada	Quote: If you can afford to buy enough evaporust you are rich enough to send it to the big guys and not do it yourself. I have anouther container with soda water to counteract the acid bath, just dip for a few minutes then rinse. Anouther continer with the radiator rust inhibator to keep from flashing. Seems to me that you probably have more invested in all those containers and their contents than I'd have in a single container of evaporust - which needs no rinse !!! And I don't have to worry about the evaporating acid rusting everything in the general vicinity either. Sometimes it makes sense to spend a little more money on the right stuff.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: Stanton] #1706525 12/09/14 01:49 PM 12/09/14 01:49 PM
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 8,248 fredericksburg,va C cudaman1969 master
cudaman1969 master C Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 8,248 fredericksburg,va	Quote: Quote: If you can afford to buy enough evaporust you are rich enough to send it to the big guys and not do it yourself. I have anouther container with soda water to counteract the acid bath, just dip for a few minutes then rinse. Anouther continer with the radiator rust inhibator to keep from flashing. Seems to me that you probably have more invested in all those containers and their contents than I'd have in a single container of evaporust - which needs no rinse !!! And I don't have to worry about the evaporating acid rusting everything in the general vicinity either. Sometimes it makes sense to spend a little more money on the right stuff. 20 gallons of evaporust @$23.95 or 20 gallons of muratic acid- 5 @$7.00 vineger mix 15-@$2.49 I make up the boxes for the size item i'm derusting. I do use the evaporust product for things that will fit in a gallon can, but when you're talking a door, fender or frame rail its to costly and only lasts a few times before it stops working, the acid mix never stops working.

Re: Muratic Acid for Emblems [Re: cudaman1969] #1706526 12/09/14 09:06 PM 12/09/14 09:06 PM
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada S Stanton Don't question me!
Stanton Don't question me! S Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 8,869 Ontario, Canada	I use the term "evaporust" as its a recognizable name. However, I buy the exact same sh!t in concentrated form locally for $25/gallon and it makes 40 gallons of "evaporust". Check your local yellow pages for "chemical manufacturers" or "cleaning supplies". There are small mom and pop shops out there that make this stuff and its dirt cheap. If they don't sell to the public, talk to the right person and they'll generally sell on a "cash" basis. Chemistry is chemistry, "evaporust" is just a brand name for a generic chemical - like "metalprep".

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