I have T&D roller rockers custom built on my 451" Mopar stage 6 heads. Just wondering how long they will last on a street motor? Anyone have experience with them durability wise?
Thanks Brad

My friend runs them on his BB Chevy S/G car. Over 1" lift, over 1000lb's on the nose. They replaced the body's at 700 passes. Never had a failure. 185 passes on mine since I got them used with ?? passes.Spring pressure 320/810.
Doug

my opinion on any valve train parts is how stable/correct is the entire system. wrong springs not enough pressure or to much pressure will kill any parts. when things are right parts will last a long time. just think about it, how many miles is 500 1/8 mile pasees. answer not many.

It's a 90% street motor, valve lift .550, hyd roller cam , spends most of the time at 3000 or lower. Rev limiter set at 6000 I bounce it off the rev limiter now and then when playing.
This cam... http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCard.aspx?partNumber=60312

I doubt you could ever wear them out at that level. my stock stroke 360 has a mild roller with indy rockers and i think it would run forever

I had one brake. 245-625. Guessing they were around 11 yrs old. I'd say age has a lot to do with breakage.

You got them, use them and don't worry about them at all I forgot to point out the set of T&Ds I bought and used was the single shaft stock Mopar OEM replacement type, not the all out high dollar high RPM race two rockers to a single shaft set up. Sorry for not making that clear to start with

There was a post on here not that long ago that had a link to some T&Ds w/ serious shaft wear. I think the assumption was that there were improperly heat-treated shafts supplied at one point, but nobody ever responded to the OP's question about whether this was an isolated case.

Thanks for all the replies guys! I had read that aluminum rockers don't last very well and was a little concerned but figuring what they cost they better last awhile!

IMO, those T&D individual paired rocker setup is one of the best available. Just as good as the similar Jesel, and perhaps oil better.

The single shaft T&D are not the same, but are still pretty good. But the shafts are totally different.

After using them for a number of years in a whole lot of engines we finally broke one this weekend.



Of course it took this to do it..

thats not good, sorry to see that

Al does this mean you exceeded the number of runs possible on your GRP's?
Doug

Dang it Al, I'm really sorry to see that damage, hopefully no one or the car got hurt from that part failure

Sincerely sorry to see that, absolutely sucks……but wasn’t the following two quotes made by you in a “Charlies Oil Pan” thread earlier this year?

QUOTE “IMO it is a good pan for the money. We have used them in the past and they are WAY better than the Milodon stuff.”

QUOTE “Chris I ran that pan for years and NEVER ha d a leak. Also in reply to the no HP gain with the kickout I will call BS as well. We ran mine on the dyno when I first bought one. We made 23 more HP with the side kickout than we did with the milodon dragster style pan. So my experience is quit e a bit different than posted here. We have since moved on to a different pan builder. But I still feel this is one area many Mopar guys are missing the boat.”

I’m guessing by the silicone art, this was the bullet that came with your pipe rack, and not one of your pieces? Hopefully the frame wasn't damaged – one huge reason I wont run steel rods in mine – losing the engine would be bad enough, having to also back half the car would be catastrophic.

To the OP on the original topic - IMO, you cant really assign a timeline to these types of components, too many variables. Just keep up on the valve springs and perform good inspections, check for resistance with turning the adjuster screw and for any noticeable roughness in the bearing, in addition to discoloration of the main body (stress evidence).

FWIW, my pipe rack has a 17 year old 572 w/-13 heads, 1.7 ratio, 340 on the seat and 1100 on the nose, many laps on these T&D's and no failures. They very well may have been some of the first T&Ds that were ever produced for those heads. I think you will be happy.

FWIW the bearings look new, almost to new honestly. Yes this motor came with the car. We had numerous issues with the the car from day one. Looking back we should have pulled it apart but figured it would last two races. Looked at log book today and it made 21 runs from the day we got it. Plan was to pull it apart after this race and freshen it up. Now it is total loss.

The damage did take out one body panel. Luckily it missed the frame rails. It will NOT have steel rods in it again IF we keep it. For now we need a complete motor and the kid is on a tight budget as this was to be his car.

Oh yeah don't have to worry about using that pan as it was destroyed along with everything else

A friend of mine had a stock 440 block crack a cylinder that filled up with water and broke a rod. This was in third gear 727TF high rpm in the water box. Kicked out a piece of the block that got under one of the tires(16x32") which added speed to the piece of cast iron that hit one person standing some distance behind.
Lucky it was only a flesh wound and he did not break the arm.

I am in favor of alum. rods and use them myself in my motor, but this was a alum. rod that broke the side of the block just like Al´s block.
Really sorry and feel your pain Al.

Regarding this thread, as you have the 5/8 shafts, those rockers have much more meat in the right places, so if you don´t get in any bad harmonics, or use to soft springs, those rockers should stay in place for some time.