Quote:

---

Do you want it cos it`s local or do you like those carbs? What`s it goin on?

---

I have an old 850 that has been messed with, never worked that well and just plain wore out. I'm sloooowly putting together a 451, 10:1 compression, reusing stage V heads for now and a solid roller cam. I'm looking for a good used carb with screw in bleeds ect. for tuning. Seems cheaper to buy one with those features and sell my old carb. This Demon is in my price range.

Quote:

---

Screw-in bleeds and such are not an absolute necessity for tuning those circuits. And may narrow your field of choice of carbs down too much. For instance, if it weren't for the screw-in bleeds, would you consider the Demon otherwise?

With a drill and tap, it is easy to thread most any carb for air bleeds. Or you can simply drill the orifices out if they need to be larger. And in most cases, the only ones that get adjusted are the idle air bleeds. Adjusting the fuel curve with the main air bleeds is not where most beginning tuners go.

For most beginning Holley tuners, the IFRs, IABs, PVCRs, main jets, and the Transition slot feed holes are the areas that give you the most improvement in driveability. (assuming this is a street car) And the T-slots and PVCRs rarely have screw-in jets anyway.

You may find that having a drill bit and tap or a selection of wire bits will let you pick a better choice of carb for your application rather than concentrating on looking for one that already has the screw-in bleeds.

---

I disagree w/most of what you posted here. Why do you think carb companies came into the 20th century and created tuneable circuits instead of fixed rich idle unhappy cruise characteristics holley was and is known for. I guess we don`t need widebands either. And if you think I`m a beginner definately not so. No expert either but every and I mean EVERY carb I touch gets better, faster and cleaner.........PERIOD. Probably because of all of those "unnecessary" holes that are perfect out of the box. You my man are giving out poor info to a guy that wants to learn and closing the door. I`m not wasting any more time on this w/you the guy that comes in after my post and tries to put down mine and some of the best carb guys in the world practices which are proven to work..................

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Screw-in bleeds and such are not an absolute necessity for tuning those circuits. And may narrow your field of choice of carbs down too much. For instance, if it weren't for the screw-in bleeds, would you consider the Demon otherwise?

With a drill and tap, it is easy to thread most any carb for air bleeds. Or you can simply drill the orifices out if they need to be larger. And in most cases, the only ones that get adjusted are the idle air bleeds. Adjusting the fuel curve with the main air bleeds is not where most beginning tuners go.

For most beginning Holley tuners, the IFRs, IABs, PVCRs, main jets, and the Transition slot feed holes are the areas that give you the most improvement in driveability. (assuming this is a street car) And the T-slots and PVCRs rarely have screw-in jets anyway.

You may find that having a drill bit and tap or a selection of wire bits will let you pick a better choice of carb for your application rather than concentrating on looking for one that already has the screw-in bleeds.

---

I disagree w/most of what you posted here. Why do you think carb companies came into the 20th century and created tuneable circuits instead of fixed rich idle unhappy cruise characteristics holley was and is known for. I guess we don`t need widebands either. And if you think I`m a beginner definately not so. No expert either but every and I mean EVERY carb I touch gets better, faster and cleaner.........PERIOD. Probably because of all of those "unnecessary" holes that are perfect out of the box. You my man are giving out poor info to a guy that wants to learn and closing the door. I`m not wasting any more time on this w/you the guy that comes in after my post and tries to put down mine and some of the best carb guys in the world practices which are proven to work..................

---

What are you talking about?

I in no way implied that you were a beginner. It would seem from the question he asked that the OP was the beginning tuner. Now take a deep breath and back away from the key board.

NEWSFLASH THUMPER; Carbs that do not have screw-in bleeds and jets can still be tuned. That was the primary point of my post. I am sorry that you disagree with that. But that is your problem, please don't visit that mistake on the OP.

Air and fuel are metered by the size of the orifice they flow through. They have no way of knowing if the orifice is drilled in brass and screws in or if the orifice is drilled directly in the aluminum itself.

You are implying that if the carb does not have screw-in bleeds and jets that it is not tuneable. Why the obsession with needing to screw a bleed or jet in? And if you had taken the time to rationally read my post, you would have noted that I offered the suggestion of threading the orifices for bleeds and jets if the OP was more comfortable with that.

Why do you not believe that the OP can drill and tap the carb for screw-in bleeds and jets? It is not that hard. But it is also not necessary in order to tune a carb.

You may not be a beginner Thumper, but you are closed minded and defensive.

Relax, Francis.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Screw-in bleeds and such are not an absolute necessity for tuning those circuits. And may narrow your field of choice of carbs down too much. For instance, if it weren't for the screw-in bleeds, would you consider the Demon otherwise?

With a drill and tap, it is easy to thread most any carb for air bleeds. Or you can simply drill the orifices out if they need to be larger. And in most cases, the only ones that get adjusted are the idle air bleeds. Adjusting the fuel curve with the main air bleeds is not where most beginning tuners go.

For most beginning Holley tuners, the IFRs, IABs, PVCRs, main jets, and the Transition slot feed holes are the areas that give you the most improvement in driveability. (assuming this is a street car) And the T-slots and PVCRs rarely have screw-in jets anyway.

You may find that having a drill bit and tap or a selection of wire bits will let you pick a better choice of carb for your application rather than concentrating on looking for one that already has the screw-in bleeds.

---

I disagree w/most of what you posted here. Why do you think carb companies came into the 20th century and created tuneable circuits instead of fixed rich idle unhappy cruise characteristics holley was and is known for. I guess we don`t need widebands either. And if you think I`m a beginner definately not so. No expert either but every and I mean EVERY carb I touch gets better, faster and cleaner.........PERIOD. Probably because of all of those "unnecessary" holes that are perfect out of the box. You my man are giving out poor info to a guy that wants to learn and closing the door. I`m not wasting any more time on this w/you the guy that comes in after my post and tries to put down mine and some of the best carb guys in the world practices which are proven to work..................

---

What are you talking about?

I in no way implied that you were a beginner. It would seem from the question he asked that the OP was the beginning tuner. Now take a deep breath and back away from the key board.

NEWSFLASH THUMPER; Carbs that do not have screw-in bleeds and jets can still be tuned. That was the primary point of my post. I am sorry that you disagree with that. But that is your problem, please don't visit that mistake on the OP.

Air and fuel are metered by the size of the orifice they flow through. They have no way of knowing if the orifice is drilled in brass and screws in or if the orifice is drilled directly in the aluminum itself.

You are implying that if the carb does not have screw-in bleeds and jets that it is not tuneable. Why the obsession with needing to screw a bleed or jet in? And if you had taken the time to rationally read my post, you would have noted that I offered the suggestion of threading the orifices for bleeds and jets if the OP was more comfortable with that.

Why do you not believe that the OP can drill and tap the carb for screw-in bleeds and jets? It is not that hard. But it is also not necessary in order to tune a carb.

You may not be a beginner Thumper, but you are closed minded and defensive.

Relax, Francis.

---

I understand the comments made by both of you. I didn't see your comment being directed at Thumper . If anything I believe you were saying the tuning can be done a cheaper way. That is a true statement but I don't have the time like 6 years ago before kids so the changeable screws would just make my life a little easier is what I'm thinking.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Screw-in bleeds and such are not an absolute necessity for tuning those circuits. And may narrow your field of choice of carbs down too much. For instance, if it weren't for the screw-in bleeds, would you consider the Demon otherwise?

With a drill and tap, it is easy to thread most any carb for air bleeds. Or you can simply drill the orifices out if they need to be larger. And in most cases, the only ones that get adjusted are the idle air bleeds. Adjusting the fuel curve with the main air bleeds is not where most beginning tuners go.

For most beginning Holley tuners, the IFRs, IABs, PVCRs, main jets, and the Transition slot feed holes are the areas that give you the most improvement in driveability. (assuming this is a street car) And the T-slots and PVCRs rarely have screw-in jets anyway.

You may find that having a drill bit and tap or a selection of wire bits will let you pick a better choice of carb for your application rather than concentrating on looking for one that already has the screw-in bleeds.

---

I disagree w/most of what you posted here. Why do you think carb companies came into the 20th century and created tuneable circuits instead of fixed rich idle unhappy cruise characteristics holley was and is known for. I guess we don`t need widebands either. And if you think I`m a beginner definately not so. No expert either but every and I mean EVERY carb I touch gets better, faster and cleaner.........PERIOD. Probably because of all of those "unnecessary" holes that are perfect out of the box. You my man are giving out poor info to a guy that wants to learn and closing the door. I`m not wasting any more time on this w/you the guy that comes in after my post and tries to put down mine and some of the best carb guys in the world practices which are proven to work..................

---

What are you talking about?

I in no way implied that you were a beginner. It would seem from the question he asked that the OP was the beginning tuner. Now take a deep breath and back away from the key board.

NEWSFLASH THUMPER; Carbs that do not have screw-in bleeds and jets can still be tuned. That was the primary point of my post. I am sorry that you disagree with that. But that is your problem, please don't visit that mistake on the OP.

Air and fuel are metered by the size of the orifice they flow through. They have no way of knowing if the orifice is drilled in brass and screws in or if the orifice is drilled directly in the aluminum itself.

You are implying that if the carb does not have screw-in bleeds and jets that it is not tuneable. Why the obsession with needing to screw a bleed or jet in? And if you had taken the time to rationally read my post, you would have noted that I offered the suggestion of threading the orifices for bleeds and jets if the OP was more comfortable with that.

Why do you not believe that the OP can drill and tap the carb for screw-in bleeds and jets? It is not that hard. But it is also not necessary in order to tune a carb.

You may not be a beginner Thumper, but you are closed minded and defensive.

Relax, Francis.

---

I understand the comments made by both of you. I didn't see your comment being directed at Thumper . If anything I believe you were saying the tuning can be done a cheaper way. That is a true statement but I don't have the time like 6 years ago before kids so the changeable screws would just make my life a little easier is what I'm thinking.

---

All I`m saying is that there`s more to tuning than jet changes. Yes, he can drill n tap but why bother cos that`s not needed sayz you. I don`t want to banter back n forth............you have your opinions and I have wet flow theory and the best in the business helping people all over the world better understand the affects of lower ifr`s in the head of the fuel being excellent for tuning and distribution...............less emulsion and on and on. Enjoy your day I`ve got a carb to fix..............

Quote:

---

Thumper, I think this is just a mis-understanding. I did not say or mean to imply that these carbs cannot benefit from tuning. They can. I have never seen an OOTB carb that couldn't be improved, at least in the transitions.

I only suggested that there was more than one way to change the flow of the metering orifices. The OP prefers to have a carb with more of the bleeds and such already tapped. Had he have mentioned that, I would not have made the suggestion, as it would have been unnecessary.

I would like to ask one question though. Are there many popular carbs with the PVCRs and T-slots already equipped with the small jets? I have not run into any myself. And those two areas nearly always need some attention, in my experience. So, no matter how the air bleeds are, I end up needing drill bits and such for those.

I honestly meant my original suggestion as a means to help the OP, not to argue any particular point.

---

We`re good man and no disrespect given or taken. I hear ya and agree to a point about the t-slot jets but again, the baddest use these techniques and are being proven by myself and MANY others.............just because it isn`t common prectice doesn`t mean it doesn`t work. Peace!