yeap... considering:

-must be able to use V belt dual pulley
-internally regulated and cluster warning light
-to fit on stock location and brackets without any mod
-rated around to 80-100 amps.
-not really expensive and easy and cheap for service ( yes I'm overseas, but price diff is also down here )

suggestions? Need to buy one tomorrow

( sorry I'm just on a stock Mopar alts and this is not for my car )

I run a 10si Delco Remy on my 440. 100amp Alt. You won't find anything with stock brackets. I had to make my own. You also have to "clock" the alternator for the mounting post and rear output to be furthest from the cylinder head.

I bought mine for $90USD

Nacho,

I think you are the expert on this but here goes.

Easy fit and cheap is a mid 70's late square back factory rated at 78 amps. Similar (but more reliable than reman) is the 75 amp Powermaster squareback. Next up is the Tuffstuff 100 amp square back. All available in 3 wire and all limited to 50 or so amps at idle. Not sure how long the Tuff Stuff 100 amp unit would last running at 80 amps most of the time.

In GM cases, the small "10" case 140A Powermaster unit is nice... but it is longer than a square back and output stud may hit the head (mine did, BB, returned it). A GM specific 100 A alternator is low cost and may need a different top bracket (no AC) or no go (with AC). Most of the GM case offerings are 1 wire. Not sure about the ALT light with a 1 wire. The larger 12 case GM's with MOPAR mounting are supposed to fit better but no personal experience and very expensive from Powermaster.

That leaves the "green" alternators you posted about some weeks ago. Lots of output and expensive.

If high continuous load is not a requirement, maybe the 3 wire 100A Tuffstuff which can be serviced with any squareback in an emergency.

Or if not AC get a generic GM 100 amp unit and change the top bracket (generic) and cut spacers if needed.

Good luck!

well of course I would fit a Mopar alt, but is not posible to fit it with the warning light without build an external "sensor". Wiring is already done for AC Delco alt

was wondering about somekind of alt like the NipponDenso used on upgrades, which are plug and play to fit on stock brackets... but wired like the AC Delco alts ( no matter if 2 or 4 pins )

Am I asking too much? LOL

BTW, its for a Small Block

something like the Delco-Remy CS-130D Series.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/#common

BUT dunno about the pulley

( and dunno about the width )

The Denso alternator like found on the later Mopars is a popular up-grade.

None of the alternators listed above put out many amps at idle. I used a CS144 and a $35 adapter bracket. I did have it rewound and had a heavy duty rectifier put on it.

It puts out 115 amps at idle and can deliver over 225 amps if needed. I did have to run 2 gauge wire to a front mounted distribution lug, but it does have remote voltage sensing and a wire for the little light you are looking for.

Mine puts out all and more than I need. I rod check it and the alternator turns on. I have a cassette player with two speakers. No amp, no sub. An electric pusher fan, and HID headlights with ballasts. Thats pretty much it. I dunno about SBM, but my BB looks like it belongs there. Mine looks like that CS130D you posted, but its just a 10si. Summit Special, generic replacement. I also do not know about the double V belt

found locally a nice one! small an powerfull enough ( 85 amp )... fits on stock brackets and warning light equipped... CS-130D kind

http://www.gasgoo.com/showroom/helenlin/auto-products/1181579.html


http://www.carsteering.com/data/all_images/ALT-15456-M-900-Map.jpg

just need to change the positive stud from diodes bank and is "doable"... plastic cover got the provision for that

AND... of course the pulley

checking the connections, what it says:

"PLIS-type

Mandatory connections:

1) Connect the alternator output terminal (B or Bat) to the electrical system's main distribution point (bus bar, junction, etc.) Less optimal alternatives that will work include connecting it to the battery + terminal or a terminal on the starter motor that also connects to the battery + terminal.

2) Connect the L terminal to a source of switched ignition power through an indicator lamp wired in series. Also connect a 50 Ohm resistor in parallel with the indicator lamp so that if the bulb burns out, the alternator will still be excited.

3) Connect the I terminal to a source of switched ignition power through a 50 Ohm resistor wired in series.

3) Ensure there is a good ground connection between the bare alternator case, the mounting bracketry and the engine block/heads and/or install a dedicated ground wire from the engine block to the alternator's ground terminal (if it has one).

Crucial connections:

4) Strictly speaking, the alternator will work with only the three wiring connections listed above, but I consider it crucial for good performance that you also wire up the remote voltage sensing terminal. To do this, connect the S terminal to the vehicle electrical system's main power distribution point (bus bar, main switch, fuse panel, etc.). If the S remote voltage sensing terminal is not connected, the voltage regulator will revert to internal sensing of the alternator output terminal voltage - with all the limitations that brings. You will see some alternators wired with a short jumper wire from the S terminal directly to the battery connection at the back of the alternators, but this is neither the proper method for remote voltage sensing nor necessary for internal sensing - do it properly or leave it out."

This alt I got is 3 pins ( no Phasing pin ) so despite this.

Then I have the L terminal runing to a LED on cluster on a vintage warning lights setup ( G indicator )

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19711.0;attach=145438;image

This will be the warning light and field at the same time... right ? ( I won't use the parallel resistor for it )



I terminal... ignition. Advices to use a 50 ohms reistor in series... HOWEVER, diagram shows a parallel ?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/images/PLIS.jpg

then the S terminal... which I would splice from same source the I terminal will be sourced


wondering why the 50 ohms resistor.

lot of ppl locally makes this job without any kind of resistor

I know is somekind a CHEBBBBBY stuff, but will great some opinions &/or guidance on this LOL

I have a cs130 off a 87 buick GN on my car.You will have to mod the spacer to the head and the adjuster bar will need to be ground to clear the alts fan on a big block. The resister has to be there or it wont charge, and some alts you will have to experiment with the resister ( 50 - 100 )ohms and if I remember correct 1 watt. Radio shack has them and you just solider them on the wire. I just have the s wire jumped to the big batt stud on the alt and the l term is the 12 volt ignition with the resister. When looking for cs130s you need to find the ones that have the mounting locations 180 apart. Also you will need a v belt pulley off a older gm alt as the buick and most of the cs130s come with a serp belt pulley.

is mandatory use the 1 watt one ?


I don't know. the worst case it wont charge. I think you can use a regular light but I am not sure if a led would work, the led may not have enough resistance.

led panel got resistors on each led for whatever reason ( under a shrinked tube... unkown resistance )

I asked to 12voltsguy.com thorugh an email, who is the "composer" of the article I posted the link. He didn't gave me a GREAT AND DEDICATED ANSWER BUT he told me, 1/4 watt resistors are used to cheat the flashers on led turn signals. I had to take my own conclusion with that anwers... so being these bulbs are originally 21 watts each, I think 1/4 watts should be enough then.