Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: pittsburghracer]
#1634388
06/16/14 05:32 PM
06/16/14 05:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,706 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,706
Portage,michigan
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Come on Al, leave that 3 speed in there, I like the wheelstands
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: 412 SB Duster]
#1634390
06/16/14 08:36 PM
06/16/14 08:36 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,036 bean town ....Ca
WHITEDART
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,036
bean town ....Ca
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I have been told by two trans shops that a power glide would be two tenth slower than a 904 trans in a 9sec 3000lb car. what have you guys seen in real life.
In the 8s N/A.with Brett miller W8's 5.07 at 133 at 2700lb
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: 412 SB Duster]
#1634391
06/16/14 08:44 PM
06/16/14 08:44 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,008 Sweet Home Alabama
MRMOPAR622
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,008
Sweet Home Alabama
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Here is something you might want to try! A friend of mine a few years ago that bought my 1st dragster,less center section & most other parts(I put them on my new dragster and give him a great deal).Had a turbo 350 built trans & converter out of his door car(chevy)he used both of them behind his BBC and only used 1st & 2nd gear with a 3.55 rear gear ratio with was = to running a glide with either a 4.56 or 4.10 rear gear I can't remember which.And it worked great,at least its something you might want to look into.Do your math to pick the right rear gear ratio and if nothing else you can find out if a Glide will help your car or not. PS Try it you might like it!
"To Be The Man'You Have Got To Beat The Man"
"T/D and Pro-Bracket Racer"
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: WHITEDART]
#1634392
06/16/14 09:09 PM
06/16/14 09:09 PM
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,563 Janesville, WI
SpareParts
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,563
Janesville, WI
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Quote:
I have been told by two trans shops that a power glide would be two tenth slower than a 904 trans in a 9sec 3000lb car. what have you guys seen in real life.
I agree, it seems like most small blocks don't make the torque to carry through a glide.
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: WHITEDART]
#1634396
06/16/14 10:28 PM
06/16/14 10:28 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,267 North, Alabama
D-50
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,267
North, Alabama
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Mine runs very consistent with a 727. It runs dead on or very close every time but my problem is I can not keep from red lighting, .480-490 lights. 80% of the time.
1.33 60 ft,6.21 at 110.59 in the 1/8, pump gas small block,2950lbs,drag radials,mufflers and driven to track ...
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: WHITEDART]
#1634397
06/16/14 11:50 PM
06/16/14 11:50 PM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3,112 LONG ISLAND
fishy340
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3,112
LONG ISLAND
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Quote:
Quote:
Brother don't listen to that crap...and if it were true it would be a proflite.The reason trans guy's say that is because there bench would be empty except for freshen ups. Heavy or light once your geared right they are good.The ATI bell i ised required zero shims w a sb mini mopar starter and you get converters cheaper to.JMO
but I don't recall having ever seen a two speed behind any small block in any heads up n/a class.. power adder stuff would be different. Im going to a powerslide in my car as well looking for more consistenty.
I would love to tell ya times but i cant Andy Harris aka Flex has on in his na sb stang. Dean Marinis has a whale (Heavy)of a 68 camaro na and if anyone here like one bad fish will attest It is a freakin beast. So one is a sb and is super fast And one is a heavy BB that revs 9000+like nothing The Glides work.
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: fishy340]
#1634399
06/17/14 02:50 AM
06/17/14 02:50 AM
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,563 Janesville, WI
SpareParts
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,563
Janesville, WI
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Quote:
Brother don't listen to that crap...and if it were true it would be a proflite.The reason trans guy's say that is because there bench would be empty except for freshen ups. Heavy or light once your geared right they are good.The ATI bell i ised required zero shims w a sb mini mopar starter and you get converters cheaper to.JMO
Don't dismiss it as "crap" I got it from a very respected SBM racer here. I won't name drop but the guy has been very fast on 10.5's and looking at the new bullet is about to go faster. I got my 904 from a buddy who went to a glide, I asked a while later how the motor liked the glide (883hp W8 mill) he just asked if I wanted to sell the 904 lol
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: 412 SB Duster]
#1634403
06/17/14 12:08 PM
06/17/14 12:08 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,330 Lynchburg, VA
Leon441
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,330
Lynchburg, VA
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A 904 is simply the fastest stock based trans out there. If you change over to a 2.28 low gear and the car slows you need more rear gear ratio to make up the difference. Same thing with powerglide. If your engine does not make enough torque to pull the higher gear you will not like the glide.
Powerglides are fine but if you are now running a 3.91 gear you will probable need a 4.30 to work with the glide.
Career best 8.02 @ 169 at 3050# and 10" tires small block power.
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: nitrousr]
#1634407
06/17/14 10:40 PM
06/17/14 10:40 PM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,499 San Antonio,TX
440W8 Duster
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,499
San Antonio,TX
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I have one in my car just for the consistency of it. The wheel stands are nice but they don't get you to the next round. Plus my car left to violent with the 727.I run the JW ultra case with roller tail shaft and Ultra Bell with a 1.80 first gear.It went 1.30 60ft and ran a 5.81 with a glide. http://youtu.be/RTDkU8WCjLo
Last edited by 440W8 Duster; 06/17/14 10:41 PM.
70 Duster W8 motor. 1.29 60ft 5.79 1/8 at 120 mph glide with 1.80 gear @3170 lbs.
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1634409
06/18/14 07:13 PM
06/18/14 07:13 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 842 Baltimore,MD
Bill_LBSR
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 842
Baltimore,MD
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Just FYI, if you go with an ATI powerglide case and bell for a small block, make sure they include the spacer between the case and bellhousing.
LBSR
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1634410
06/18/14 07:27 PM
06/18/14 07:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,706 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 11,706
Portage,michigan
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Quote:
With the RIGHT converter, it will pretty much be a wash on ET. It is after all called a TORQUE converter.........LOL!!!
Explain that one to me......
If you look at championship caliber 100 meter dash guys, the tall long legged guys usually make big steam in the last 50 meters, making the advantage up over the guys with shorter strides, but I drag racing that first half is everything, your generally not going to make up that lost ground from "leaving soft".
Last edited by B3422W5; 06/18/14 07:29 PM.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: Bill_LBSR]
#1634412
06/18/14 09:27 PM
06/18/14 09:27 PM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3,112 LONG ISLAND
fishy340
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3,112
LONG ISLAND
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Quote:
Just FYI, if you go with an ATI powerglide case and bell for a small block, make sure they include the spacer between the case and bellhousing.
Lol funny you should say that Bill .I ordered the spacer and went to use it...And bam it was already there. I have an extra if someone needs it...
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: fishy340]
#1634413
06/18/14 09:32 PM
06/18/14 09:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,706 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Portage,michigan
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Quote:
NA sb's goin 1.11/ 12 is not soft. Three speeds might help slower heavy cars out i guess, But saying a glide leaves soft is actualy cause the car aint right. 95% of chevys and stangs run glides or 2 speed 400's with so much success.If your lookin for thousand of a sec then yeah a proflite may be needed.JMO
I am talking about a car like the OP has.... I don't doubt making 1 less shift and having a trans with a much taller first gear will numb the launch and contribute to consistency, but I have a tough time believing it will 60 as well. I think he already replaced the low gear in his 904 with the 2.45 gear to numb the hit...
I suspect those 1.11 and 1.12 60 foots are because the power glide is by nature going to be way more forgiving at ramping in power and masking traction issues than a 3 speed would.
Last edited by B3422W5; 06/18/14 09:44 PM.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: fishy340]
#1634414
06/18/14 10:02 PM
06/18/14 10:02 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,036 bean town ....Ca
WHITEDART
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,036
bean town ....Ca
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here you go psca 2014 weight brakes if this is not proof. I can look up the nmca rules for you to. DEDUCT WEIGHT (In Percent of your Engine Cubic Inch Displacement) 10% For Single Carburetor Applications 10% For Pre-74 Full & Mid-size Entries 15% For a 2-speed Automatic Transmission (Big Blocks) 20% For a 2-speed Automatic Transmission (Small Blocks) it 1s at least a tenth maybe more. most people will not spend the time or money. to make a three speed work they will usually ride the wheelie bar to hard and kill ET a three speed with a flat first like a 2.08or 2.20 is where it is at for a small block
Last edited by WHITEDART; 06/18/14 10:17 PM.
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: 408strokerdart]
#1634419
06/19/14 12:54 PM
06/19/14 12:54 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 481 Cheswick, PA
Bob_Spelic
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 481
Cheswick, PA
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I have been reading this and there is all good info. I have a 66 charger and a race tech dragster. I have always ran 727 in the charger. When I got the dragster I put a glide into it because a 727 shorty is a lot of money and only A&A does it. After running a glide for 5 years and servicing it, the glide is, in my opinion, the hands down winner for simplicity, and durability (with FULL aftermarket support for ANY internal component). You don’t see a glide T-Brake move once the button is pushed, NEVER, unless there is something internally wrong. They flat out lock down.
I would go the cut off stock case and the JW bell. I can speak with firsthand knowledge that the mopar mini starter fits, the RobbMC starter fits and any of the power master variants fit. The bell is right around $350. It is good for certification for 5 years. You will have to run a shield over the stock case but not the bell shield. I have been running a stock case glide into the 7.90’s for 5 years without issue. I open the trans early and this year was the first time it needed to have the clutches replaced. This is with about 150 to 200 runs per year (depending on how well I do). Like everyone says, converters are a glides best friend. If you know where your engine makes the highest torque and HP, all of the converter companies have been designing glide converters for hundreds or cars per year and they will hit the right converter for your combo.
Sorry to be so long winded.
Bob spelic
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: Bob_Spelic]
#1634420
06/19/14 02:08 PM
06/19/14 02:08 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890 North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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I don't know where this idea that a car with a glide will be "lazy" or won't 60ft came from. That is FAR from the truth. Just because so and so put a glide in his car with the WRONG converter and the car was a slug early, doesn't make that scenario a fact.
Lots of gear, be it rear OR trans, lets you accelerate the car with rpm, which may or may not be the quickest way down the track, depending on your combo. With a taller gear in the trans or rear, it puts the onus of moving the car on the converter and it MUST be right. You want to USE the grunt the motor makes, be it a small or big block, and let that torque WORK the torque converter and move the car.
Also, guys put WAY too much emphasis on 60ft numbers. While they are important, they are NOT as important as 330 numbers. Now before anybody says a quicker 60ft always presents a faster 330......the reply to that is NO, it does NOT automatically work that way. How the car uses the power from 60 TO 330 is what makes those numbers good or bad.
So put a ton of gear in a low powered car and it MAY accelerate like a bandit for 100 feet or so, but then it is all done and flat on its face, because you topped the motor out very early. Now you put a taller gear in that same car, use the torque and make the car accelerate hard for a LONGER period of time and it WILL be quicker to 330, even though the 60 may not be quite as good. WAY more numbers on a time slip than the 60 and ET. Learn what those other numbers mean and what helps them. I will sacrifice a couple numbers in 60ft for the car to be in control and moving harder at 330 EVERY time
Monte
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1634421
06/19/14 02:44 PM
06/19/14 02:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,706 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,706
Portage,michigan
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Quote:
I don't know where this idea that a car with a glide will be "lazy" or won't 60ft came from. That is FAR from the truth. Just because so and so put a glide in his car with the WRONG converter and the car was a slug early, doesn't make that scenario a fact.
Lots of gear, be it rear OR trans, lets you accelerate the car with rpm, which may or may not be the quickest way down the track, depending on your combo. With a taller gear in the trans or rear, it puts the onus of moving the car on the converter and it MUST be right. You want to USE the grunt the motor makes, be it a small or big block, and let that torque WORK the torque converter and move the car.
Also, guys put WAY too much emphasis on 60ft numbers. While they are important, they are NOT as important as 330 numbers. Now before anybody says a quicker 60ft always presents a faster 330......the reply to that is NO, it does NOT automatically work that way. How the car uses the power from 60 TO 330 is what makes those numbers good or bad.
So put a ton of gear in a low powered car and it MAY accelerate like a bandit for 100 feet or so, but then it is all done and flat on its face, because you topped the motor out very early. Now you put a taller gear in that same car, use the torque and make the car accelerate hard for a LONGER period of time and it WILL be quicker to 330, even though the 60 may not be quite as good. WAY more numbers on a time slip than the 60 and ET. Learn what those other numbers mean and what helps them. I will sacrifice a couple numbers in 60ft for the car to be in control and moving harder at 330 EVERY time
Monte
Hi Monte.... Always enjoy your posts.
That said, a lot of what you said above DOESNT apply to probably 80-90 percent of the guys on here, me included. Car I am putting together has a 318 and will weigh 3400 pounds. I guarantee you if it doesn't 60 foot, it isn't going to make it up elsewhere. A lot of weekend race cars are exactly like that, be they dual purpose cars or heavy cars that don't have 700-800 horse motors in them. A doggy 60 feet can create double the ET liability it creates when you get to the ET shack. Sure some stuff can overcome a bad 60 foot because of having to pull power away on the hit, being a turbo car, or index car, or a whole variety of scenarios. But most of us common folk know a bad 60 foot will kill a time slip.....
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: B3422W5]
#1634422
06/19/14 03:23 PM
06/19/14 03:23 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890 North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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While that may be true, in this case the OP said it was all about "winning rounds", NOT laying down killer 60ft numbers. So if your only goal is to be consistent and win rounds, the 60ft is not really of any consequence, as long as the car does it the same every round. A two speed WILL be more consistent, I doubt many will dispute that.
My other responses were geared towards the "glide car won't 60ft" comments, that perpetuate EVERY thread on this board where a glide gets mentioned. Does EVERY car need a glide, of course not. But also does a car having a glide automatically make it a weak 60ft car...HELL no. So as with all things, a one size fits all scenario does not apply here.
One other thing......if you are a true bracket racer, that only cares about winning rounds and your car easily makes the ET break for the class and you can have good lights.......why would you care what it 60fts. Cut a light, run the number, drive the finish line, YOU WIN!!! A better 60ft never won a bracket race. What will be more consistent on a track to track basis......a car that goes low 1.30 60fts, but is on the edge or has the wheels 3 feet in the air, or the car that "drives off" and goes high 30 or low 40 60fts?
Rarely does getting every ounce of performance from your combo AND winning lots of rounds go hand in hand. A car "on the edge" is usually an inconsistent car. How many times a guy tell you "I lost 2 in the 60 and couldn't catch him".........when I bracket raced, I heard it every day at the track. And it was MY quest for ultimate performance that pushed me from brackets to heads up. I decided I wanted my car to be as fast as it could be, but I also started winning lots less rounds, because I was always "tinkering" instead of just standing pat and going rounds. Just have to decide what your goals are
Monte
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1634423
06/19/14 03:41 PM
06/19/14 03:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,706 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Portage,michigan
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Great points Monte..........
Just be aware 90% or higher of us on here know we aren't ever going to make a living at bracket racing, so we do our best, live with the results, and go back to busting rocks on Monday morning. Personally, I have gone plenty of rounds, and won a little money here and there to boot, but to me it's all about getting a given combo to run as good as it can. Even if bracket racing you get plenty of chances( time trials, opponent red lights, etc) to run the car out the back door and see how fast it can go. Most everybody I know is constantly " pecking away" at the ET to make the car faster. Even the OP, who I know well, is like that....... Long story short, lots of us like to compete and bracket racing is the most available platform for that..... But in many cases, we like to go as fast as we can while doing so.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1634425
06/19/14 07:05 PM
06/19/14 07:05 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,418 Mcallen, TX
SB449VALIANT
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,418
Mcallen, TX
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I remember been a PITA with Rob Shape ( ATI ) , i asked him for a complete powerglide supercase for sb mopar, his answers were:
We can sell you just the case and adapter. The case is $693.26, and the adapter is $125.09 We are still in r&d on the SB mopar bell
not sure on an eta... still trying to work the bugs out
And then on April 01 2008 i recived this email from him.
Complete kit is now in production (bell, case, flexplate, adapter, and hardware). Price is $1310.30
Give it a try....i have tried both the adapter plate with oem powerglide, then a glide cut for JW bell, you won't be disappointed Btw they did sent the ATI powerglide to me without the adapter spacer to...i might have the first one i have to check the serial
As a matter of a fact i just finished doing some sheet metal work to my 65 valiant firewall, o well i did try to stay as close as Original possible but with an engine moved an inch back you get all kind of free problems.
Btw iam about to send the ATI case to get the internals in, to Mobile Alabama in the next couple of days,i wonder if i only need to send the Case and Tail housing?
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: nitrousr]
#1634426
07/19/14 10:31 PM
07/19/14 10:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 245 regina sask
nitrousr
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 245
regina sask
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Quote:
We are in the process of putting a glide behind our hemi and were going back and forth between the jw bell or the adaptor plate. In the end we went with the adaptor plate and an aftermarket one piece chevy case. The final decision was based on if we hurt the trans we were more likely to be able to borrow/buy a chev setup than a trans that was modified for a jw.
just wanted to provide an update to this. As it turns out there is considerable modification needed to fit a starter to the chevy bellhousing. The grinding required has rendered the sfi tag void. As happens regularily a good idea has turned out to be anything but. Plans now will be to cut bellhousing off and install a jw. Just wanted to post this in case anyone else was considering this route.
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1634427
07/19/14 10:38 PM
07/19/14 10:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
While that may be true, in this case the OP said it was all about "winning rounds", NOT laying down killer 60ft numbers. So if your only goal is to be consistent and win rounds, the 60ft is not really of any consequence, as long as the car does it the same every round. A two speed WILL be more consistent, I doubt many will dispute that.
My other responses were geared towards the "glide car won't 60ft" comments, that perpetuate EVERY thread on this board where a glide gets mentioned. Does EVERY car need a glide, of course not. But also does a car having a glide automatically make it a weak 60ft car...HELL no. So as with all things, a one size fits all scenario does not apply here.
One other thing......if you are a true bracket racer, that only cares about winning rounds and your car easily makes the ET break for the class and you can have good lights.......why would you care what it 60fts. Cut a light, run the number, drive the finish line, YOU WIN!!! A better 60ft never won a bracket race. What will be more consistent on a track to track basis......a car that goes low 1.30 60fts, but is on the edge or has the wheels 3 feet in the air, or the car that "drives off" and goes high 30 or low 40 60fts?
Rarely does getting every ounce of performance from your combo AND winning lots of rounds go hand in hand. A car "on the edge" is usually an inconsistent car. How many times a guy tell you "I lost 2 in the 60 and couldn't catch him".........when I bracket raced, I heard it every day at the track. And it was MY quest for ultimate performance that pushed me from brackets to heads up. I decided I wanted my car to be as fast as it could be, but I also started winning lots less rounds, because I was always "tinkering" instead of just standing pat and going rounds. Just have to decide what your goals are
Monte
I would take a glide any day over a 727 or 904 for bracket racing.
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: nitrousr]
#1634428
07/19/14 10:38 PM
07/19/14 10:38 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Quote:
We are in the process of putting a glide behind our hemi and were going back and forth between the jw bell or the adaptor plate. In the end we went with the adaptor plate and an aftermarket one piece chevy case. The final decision was based on if we hurt the trans we were more likely to be able to borrow/buy a chev setup than a trans that was modified for a jw.
just wanted to provide an update to this. As it turns out there is considerable modification needed to fit a starter to the chevy bellhousing. The grinding required has rendered the sfi tag void. As happens regularily a good idea has turned out to be anything but. Plans now will be to cut bellhousing off and install a jw. Just wanted to post this in case anyone else was considering this route.
I went with the JW on the get go.. to me it was the easiest and cheapest way
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: nitrousr]
#1634429
07/19/14 11:06 PM
07/19/14 11:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Quote:
We are in the process of putting a glide behind our hemi and were going back and forth between the jw bell or the adaptor plate. In the end we went with the adaptor plate and an aftermarket one piece chevy case. The final decision was based on if we hurt the trans we were more likely to be able to borrow/buy a chev setup than a trans that was modified for a jw.
just wanted to provide an update to this. As it turns out there is considerable modification needed to fit a starter to the chevy bellhousing. The grinding required has rendered the sfi tag void. As happens regularily a good idea has turned out to be anything but. Plans now will be to cut bellhousing off and install a jw. Just wanted to post this in case anyone else was considering this route.
JW is the only way to go imo
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Re: Putting glide behind a small block
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1634430
07/19/14 11:58 PM
07/19/14 11:58 PM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,499 San Antonio,TX
440W8 Duster
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,499
San Antonio,TX
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I went with the JW on the get go.. to me it was the easiest and cheapest way
Same here!!
70 Duster W8 motor. 1.29 60ft 5.79 1/8 at 120 mph glide with 1.80 gear @3170 lbs.
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