I have a cast crank 440 with mallory added to the crank. Does this make the crank internally balanced? Need a harmonic balancer, flexplate, and torque converter to match.

Can I get away with neutral balance now?

Thanks!

This is a classic situation of not enough information.

In general, as Mallory metal (sintered tungsten) is extremely expensive, there would be no reason to add it to a crankshaft except to internally balance it. However, unless you know the history of your engine you don't really know. I can imagine other situations where for example too much material was taken off a crank or too heavy components were used where the external balance wasn't sufficient, but that's pushihg the boundaries of believeability.
People do stupid things. In my collection is a chevy smallblock stroker crank that was designed to be internally balanced, yet the genius doing the balancing used an externally balanced flywheel and damper during balancing, leading him to drill multiple holes in the crank counterweights! (If he'd used a neutral balance damper and flywheel it would have come out about perfect with very little metal moved.)

So the safe answer is to take the parts to a machine shop and have it investigated. Or else you could just buy the neutral balanced stuff, assemble the motor and take your chances.

R.

In some cases, the shop that did the balancing will stamp a work order number somewhere on the crank; if you can find it and the shop that did it they will probably have records.

As said I would ASSuME that a prior owner neutral balanced it (any indications that it ain't stock/ rebuilt/30 over etc). I'm assuming the long block is together? If so I'd likely install it with a neutral dampener/tc/flexplate & hope that it is smooth. If it is apart or if you wanted to be proactive & take it apart which might not be a bad idea (I'd rather know now then later & have to pull it out/apart & tear into it) then you'd need to take the crank and 1 rod/piston/ring/bearings(s) assy in so he could weigh it/spin the crank & see if it is balanced to that assy. EDIT you'd need to take in a neutral dampener & likely the flexplate/bolts also (ask the guy) & ask him if he needs the big bolt/washer for the dampener also

Yeah this might be an interesting case. It is supposedly balanced with a stock external balancer and the B&M external balance flexplate. Does this make any sense at all?!

Thanks!

While we are on this subject I just inherited a 440 out of a 77 New Yorker, The motor is stock, was thinking of a rebuild to put in a B-Body. Is there any problem building a warmed up 440 with a cast crank and damper OR should I trash the crank and balancer and look for a a forged crank and matching balancer?

Most people dont care for them for some strange reason but I dont think there is a problem hotrodding them

For a street car IMHO you have two choices:
1. Keep the cast crank. There haven't been many problems with the 440 cast crank.
2. Buy a forged stroker crank. If you are going to buy a crank increase the stroke at the same time.

Need for lightweight pistons will be true for either one. Your stock compression ratio is an honest 7.3:1 or lower. You will spend money to put in better pistons with a taller compression height and the lightweight forgings are just a little more, nowadays.
Any 440 built for HP use should be rebalanced as a matter of course. Mopar's balance jobs are notoriously bad.

R.

Yeah the motor is together minus oil pan. Can I just run a regular neutral balance converter then?

Thanks for your help!