A few more

excellent ! excellent ! excellent ! i know i asked before, and you told me, but now since it's all done, could you weigh the finished product for me please ? i'm just dying to know since everything is such high quality/heavy duty construction. you will get many smiles per mile i'm sure ! a job very well done !

Bring it to Spring Fling! Love the color and the look.

Car weighs in at 2580 - less driver and 3/4 tank of fuel ( 13 Gal tank ). Sorry, no frt / rear or corner weights.

thank you sir. hoping to keep my humpback at 2800 or so. it may be doable as it doesn't have 1/4" thick floors and will have no fenders or hood. thanks again for taking the time to "weigh" in.

Still pluggin along on my 33. Most of the small nagging fresh build issues have been addressed. Got several questions. 1. Alignment; This car has a typical short arm long arm front suspension with coil overs and rack steering. Rear is a canted 4 link, also with coil overs. At present, running 1/2 degree positive camber, 3 degrees caster, 1/16 toe in. Upon decel at about 65 mph, it will sometimes hunt for a line ( left or right). Also, when turning in to corners at speed, I have to over correct ( wants to go farther in to the turn than my original input ). No sway bars or pan hard bar. No slop anywhere with poly bushing and heim joints on all pivot areas. Nothing is severe, but it aint what I would like. It's been suggested that I add another 3 degrees of caster, which I can do easily. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Not very familiar with canted 4 link rear suspensions. Is there some side to side movement with them? Do I need to add a pan hard bar? #2. Looking to have a billet aluminum windshield molding made for this car. Presently using "Flex Chromes" bendable chrome molding in this area, but it is slowly starting to pull up on the corners. Any ideas? Thanks for any reply's. John

I already made my comments on the suspension design early in the build.

I got pooh pooh'd.

Some potential help sorting it out.

http://www.racingonthecheap.com/recommended-reading/carroll-smiths-handling-guide/

"Positive" input is always appreciated. Thanks, John

If you cannot find anything with static checks then a couple of cheap "go pro" type cameras strategically mounted could allow you to observe the suspension in action, well record and review in the garage, not live please.

Great idea! I will pull the camera out of my race car and make some front / rear mounting points under the car. Also lots of good tips for me to check on web page you sent. Thanks again, John

for alignment specs, why the positive camber ? try 0 to -.5 there, 4 or 5* caster and -1/8 toe in. a panhard bar for the rear wouldn't hurt. when the car darts around, is it on all roads or is it different on roads with crown ? does this get worse at higher speed ? how does it act on moderate braking during corner turn in ?

[quote=moparx]for alignment specs, why the positive camber ? try 0 to -.5 there, 4 or 5* caster and -1/8 toe in. a panhard bar for the rear wouldn't hurt. when the car darts around, is it on all roads or is it different on roads with crown ? does this get worse at higher speed ? how does it act on moderate braking during corner turn in ?
[/quote. Positive camber = just how it came out. Wasn't going to screw around for 1/2 degree ( actually closer to 1/3 degree on my magnetic gauge ). Could redo it to 0 or - ? easily enough. Yes, worse at speed. Been testing on one stretch of road. Not sure on crown or ruts? Looks flat at 70 mph. Maybe I will try another stretch of road. The darting thing occurs on decal at speed - no braking. Have to recorrect on initial turn in /braking. Haven't tried messing with brake bias yet, but don't think it is brake related? Front / rear tread width = 60" and 63" respectively. Pretty much in the ball park with other vehicles. Haven't tried driving it yet since I dumped in another 3* of caster ( now @6*). In the process of recovering from some major surgery, so it will be another week or so before my body is creeper tolerable . Then I will do some more road testing - hopefully with a camera.

Took my trusty toe gauge and fabbed up an extension piece so I could use it for checking WB side to side. Within in 1/16".

over night i thought of a way to possibly see if a panhard bar, or track locator would help solve your problem. if there is enough unobstructed area around your lower, parallel, 4 link arms, you may be able to fab up a temporary diagonal link such as used on a ladder bar setup. it would attach to the drivers side at the front and the passenger side rear mount. [or the opposite if need be] the bar would be 1" or so in diameter with rod ends at each end. the brackets made from 1 1/2" or so 1/4 wall tube pieces with the appropriate spacers required for the ends used. as i used 5/8" heims, i used 1 1/2x3x1/4 wall tube for the brackets. or, you could just buy a diagonal link kit from [?] to save time provided you can find one that will work with the length you need between your lower brackets. pop in a couple of longer lower bolts and see if that does anything. if the symptoms improve or are eliminated, leave it installed or then fab the appropriate brackets needed for a panhard bar. just something to think about. it may work, may not. it could be something else altogether. wheelbase is well within workable tolerance in my opinion.

Good idea! I will check it out for possible install / clearance issues. I want to exhaust all other possibilities first though, including any bump steer issues I may have ( which I don't have a tool for checking at this time ). Thanks!

Here are some pics of the front suspension ( Pinto spindles) - namely the lower control angles and the tie rod angles. All ( both sides) are a 6 degrees. Spacers are 3" in length. Speedway sells a 2" spacer to correct bump steer with Pinto spindles, but the 3" I have appear to be on the $.

That is a beautiful car

BRAVO!!!

Thanks. Doesn't look like bump steer is my problem. It was suggested that I run a small amount of toe out (1/16 ) along with 6 degrees of caster. Presently running 1/16 toe in.

I'm wondering if your seeing results of the rear end doing some steering. !st, you have an issue when decel at 65 with it hunting for a line. Then you have to correct in mid turn because your getting more turning input then your giving the car. Both would indicate the rear end causing your unwanted destabilization.

Have you tried bumping it into neutral when you decel to see if the condition still exists? If the rear is experiencing a change in toe as it travels through the suspension travel, you could get both experiences you have. Maybe your bump steer is coming from the rear canted 4 link. Wouldn't take much of a bind or side movement to cause an uneasy feeling for the driver. A minor wheelbase change as the rear suspension articulates could cause your issues as well. Gene

Hear all of what you are saying Gene. Gonna road test with the front changes in a few days ( if it stops raining) first. If I see no improvement, I will focus on the rear. Will probably make a camera mount for under the car pointing to the rear tomorrow.