Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
#1587046
03/02/14 05:16 PM
03/02/14 05:16 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 819
Eugene, Oregon
Secret Chimp
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 819
Eugene, Oregon
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I'm redoing my front suspension rubber after redoing my ball joints about 2 years ago. I've gotten to the point where I need to split the lower ball joint from the LCA so I can remove it.
And before you suggest – hitting it with a BFH didn't work the first time, and it still feels like I'm going to whack the end of the control arm off before the joint actually splits. I haven't had any luck with that method on this car.
What's the best tool to free it without damaging the boot or the joint? O'Reilly's is 5 minutes from me, I just don't know what'll be my one-stop sure-shot for this.
I do have the spindle removed so I have more or less free access.
1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon
1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: Secret Chimp]
#1587047
03/02/14 05:50 PM
03/02/14 05:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,428
UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
NITROUSN
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I Live Here
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Quote:
hitting it with a BFH didn't work the first time
That is the way. If you cant do it you must be holding your lips the wrong way. I have never seen a joint that the hammer did not work on. I have a joint tool both hammer style and air hammer style. I seldom use either.
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: NITROUSN]
#1587048
03/02/14 06:17 PM
03/02/14 06:17 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 819
Eugene, Oregon
Secret Chimp
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
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Eugene, Oregon
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Quote:
Quote:
hitting it with a BFH didn't work the first time
That is the way. If you cant do it you must be holding your lips the wrong way. I have never seen a joint that the hammer did not work on. I have a joint tool both hammer style and air hammer style. I seldom use either.
Seriously the way things are giving when I whang on the thing, I'm afraid of bending the stud eye on the end of the arm. I've put the castle nut on upside-down flush with the top of the stud. Are you supposed to whack the arm where the stud's seated from both sides simultaneously or something instead of hitting the stud?? I'm not getting any action.
Last edited by Secret Chimp; 03/02/14 06:20 PM.
1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon
1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: NITROUSN]
#1587049
03/02/14 06:50 PM
03/02/14 06:50 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,160
Mass
DAYCLONA
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I Live Here
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Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
hitting it with a BFH didn't work the first time
That is the way. If you cant do it you must be holding your lips the wrong way. I have never seen a joint that the hammer did not work on. I have a joint tool both hammer style and air hammer style. I seldom use either.
The BFH usually works 9 out of 10 times, some stubborn joints I use a pickle fork and hammer, or air impact pickle fork....choosing the right location to deliver a hammer blow also determines if you can momentarily distort the tapered bore to release the joint end
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1587051
03/02/14 07:22 PM
03/02/14 07:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,569
Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Omaha Ne
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1587052
03/02/14 07:34 PM
03/02/14 07:34 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 819
Eugene, Oregon
Secret Chimp
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Eugene, Oregon
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Quote:
Here ya go....don't hammer the stud, hammer the tapered http://youtu.be/vpAwM2xH-IU
Ah now I remember. Thanks for doing the legwork 
1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon
1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1587054
03/02/14 09:19 PM
03/02/14 09:19 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: AndyF]
#1587056
03/02/14 11:57 PM
03/02/14 11:57 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 819
Eugene, Oregon
Secret Chimp
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OP
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Joined: Jul 2011
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Eugene, Oregon
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Quote:
The lower ball joint? Just hit the ball joint stud while supporting the lower control arm and it will pop out.
The upper ball joint is the one that is hard to remove, the lower ball joint just falls out with a tap or two of a 2 lb hammer.
The lower. It hasn't fallen out with a 4 pound hammer on the stud or two against each other on the LCA. I just bent the stud this thing is in there so bad. I only changed them a few summers ago!
1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon
1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: Secret Chimp]
#1587057
03/03/14 12:27 AM
03/03/14 12:27 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,357
central Florida
VL21
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
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central Florida
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I am probably being naive here but with the spindle removed you don't have any tension on the stud ... the BFH deal won't work too well there. I jack the car up, put a stand under the lower arm (barely, no load)just to catch it, and then swing away. I sometimes have had luck mis-using a pitman arm removal tool, and pressing on the stud. Commonly for me tho, things are worn out and I just PF things ... 
It takes gasoline to interest me.
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: Secret Chimp]
#1587058
03/03/14 09:52 AM
03/03/14 09:52 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
Commando1
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
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South-Central (Sebring), FL
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Quote:
Quote:
I am a believer now! used it lastnight on the driverside and it popped it right off! easier than whacking the knuckle with a hammer.
Thanks for posting this.
Quote:
You need one of these Ball-Joint Separator Tools:
Works great. In fact, the FSM calls for using this Miller tool.
You're welcome.
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: VL21]
#1587060
03/03/14 11:50 AM
03/03/14 11:50 AM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,836
Florida
mopar346
Let me tell ya about fat chicks!
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Let me tell ya about fat chicks!
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,836
Florida
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Quote:
I am probably being naive here but with the spindle removed you don't have any tension on the stud ... the BFH deal won't work too well there.
I jack the car up, put a stand under the lower arm (barely, no load)just to catch it, and then swing away.
I sometimes have had luck mis-using a pitman arm removal tool, and pressing on the stud.
Commonly for me tho, things are worn out and I just PF things ...
Here is the key, you use the tortion bar press to apply the downward force and the hammer just distrubes the mating surfaces and mentioned above. Take the nut loose and the screw it back on as many threads as you can and still leave you a 1/4 gap between the nut and the control arm end, this way there is room for it to come loose but not swing down violently. Once separated then release the tention on the tortion bar, jack of the arm, remove the nut and spindle and lower the jack to let the arm hang free. Like others I have never had one the wouldn't separate with a hammer, I have a 2 lb ball peen hammer I call my front end hammer, longer handle and enough weight to get the job done. IF I am trying to protect a freshly painted surface I have used a pittman arm puller when access allows.
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER I repeat NEVER, hit the stud with a hammer, nut on or not, it will ruin it. I wouldn't even do it if I was throwing the part away, it just not very effective.
Careful, your character's showing!
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: Secret Chimp]
#1587061
03/03/14 12:26 PM
03/03/14 12:26 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Used a BFH and pickle fork on the Cuda. By the time I did the Durango I used this with an air hammer: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200311609_200311609Popped them smooth as knife through butter and all the boots came out intact. I will never go back. Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: Secret Chimp]
#1587062
03/03/14 02:00 PM
03/03/14 02:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,078
Irving, TX
feets
Senior Management
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Senior Management
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,078
Irving, TX
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I use one of these:  Don't try to power a seriously stuck joint apart with it. I'll put solid torque on the tool but stop before I think it's going to break. Then pop the arm with a hammer and it separates nicely.
We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind.
- Stu Harmon
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Re: Best tool to split ball joints (not replacing)
[Re: feets]
#1587064
03/05/14 01:06 AM
03/05/14 01:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
ahy
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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Quote:
I use one of these:
Don't try to power a seriously stuck joint apart with it. I'll put solid torque on the tool but stop before I think it's going to break. Then pop the arm with a hammer and it separates nicely.
Me too. I have a couple of different size presses. One fits the lower ball joint. I use a factory re-pop tool for the upper. A press as pictured plus a hammer blow if needed has always worked for me. AZ loan a tool also has them. A pickle fork and BFH always works also... but maybe with damage. The press is the best route if you plan to re-use.
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